Thorens owners group

Thanks for the two replies folks! I can certainly try it by hand and if it becomes more of a pain in the ass, my buddy has a buffer I am sure I could use.
 
That Jelco arm looks great and obviously works on a TD-160.

One thing struck my attention was the photo with the phono leads comming out the botton of the table. I found that you need to design in some type of cable strain relief so when the cables move about they will not tug on the suspension and interfere with its performance.
 
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I did most of this by hand using metal polish that is used by professional polishers. It comes in sticks and is used on buffer wheels. I did a so-so job and finally took it to a pro who finished it for me on 5 minutes for $5. It's the same platter as on the td-160.

That looks very nice. My TD-125's platter was too oxidized and pitted for just polishing. I wet sanded it with 320 or 400 up through 2000 silicon carbide and then mirror polished it with white compound and a muslin wheel in a die grinder. I keep it up with an occasional hand polish with Semi-chrome polish.
 
Here's a question to TD160 owners with TP16 (first one) who've upgraded arms. I think I've decided to upgrade my arm rather than invest in a VPI.

Why upgrade? Several reasons. (1) limited cart selection with respect to the effective mass, (2)TP60 headshell is, to me, a weak link, (3) think there are gains to be made with a better arm.

I guess the contenders I've narrowed to are RB303 (new), some version of the SME, or a Jelco 750.

Has anyone gone down this road and can share comparisons?

My other option, there's a guy on the auction site that sells replacement, upgraded headshells that allow positive azimuth control and are much more rigid. That might be a low-impact way to address some of issues with the TP16.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Neal


I've tickled a few Thorens TT's and find that they never fail to impress. They are a very good honest TT and excellent value for money.

I have upgraded from the standard arms and used the SME3009 and Rega RB250 with upgraded stub and weight.

The results were fantastic, however in recent times the cost of the SME3009's has risen considerably and to be honest I think picking up a secondhand Rega arm and upgrading the stub, counter weight and wiring is a better use of the same money with a much better result.

I have also used the Jelco but on an SP10, and although very good, they are a bit pricey for their performance when comparing to secondhand arms of the same price. I would much prefer a vintage Japanese arm than a new Jelco for that sort of money.

Personally I would mostly buy secondhand arms and so I get much more performance for my money.

It is my recommendation that the one of the best value secondhand arms you can buy is the Grace 707 fitted with a Shure M97xE, a killer combo for the money! The data retrieval of the Grace is superb and they really seem to have been overlooked in recent years. I really hate this saying in hi-fi because everybody says it, but a standard Grace arm punches well above its weight. Yes indeed in my expereince the Grace is superior to the Rega, Jelco and SME3009.

The M97xE is also very suitable with the SME3009 and Rega arms as well, so when it comes to value and flexibility it really is a good performer.

Maybe even consider the humble Linn Basik+ arm? Very good value and still miles ahead of the standard Thorens arm in my experience.

Of course this is just my experience with the 10 or so Thorens that I've owned and pimped.

Upgrading the plinth that's what takes the Thorens to another level!

Cheers

Pete
 
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That looks very nice. My TD-125's platter was too oxidized and pitted for just polishing. I wet sanded it with 320 or 400 up through 2000 silicon carbide and then mirror polished it with white compound and a muslin wheel in a die grinder. I keep it up with an occasional hand polish with Semi-chrome polish.

I saw that pic you posted. It looks good.
 
Platters are of Zinc I believe They can be polished up like chrome : polish, 1000 grit, Buffing wheel Take yer pick.
But it's short lived as the Zinc oxidises.. Quickly.
Over the decades I've found; Autosol Polish, which comes in a small toothpaste like tube ~10$.
It THE stuff to use.. Not only does it polish up v nicely.. without too much elbow grease..
BUT the Chrome shine can last 2 + years.
Some proprietary wax /sealer component in the polish..as a Guess.
The above results on Mine, for the last 40 years.
Nothing else even comes close and Yes, I have a Buffing wheel which I have never yet used on my Thorens platter.
 
Just getting starting on the refurb of my TD-145. Having a new plinth built out of 4" black walnut. Mostly posting just to stay current with this thread.
 
i've got a thorens td166 mk ii but at the moment it is on hiatus. i do love the sound of table although i do notice some warble every now and then, and the platter does not change speed to 33 when i run it at 45 first. i'm getting a new belt to see if it is the problem. it's also a little upsetting that the table is very sensitive to footfalls, something that my direct drive sony and denon has no problem with. i hope to get this fixed so i can put it back in rotation soon.
 
Just wonderin'...... did AK ever acknowledge that the Thoren's owner's deserved a home of their own? I hope so...... I need a room!! I'm wantin' to check in if available!! WC
 
Thorens TD 150 Headshell

Hey Everyone,

Longtime Listener, First Time Caller.

Need Help! Just bought a TD 150 with kugel arm. The cartridge I have doesn't work with the screws I have. I know Thorens have wacky screws, but I ordered a set online and they are too small. Searched around every hardware store in town to find 2 mm screws. Found them, they don't work. Both screws from hardware and online seem to be same size.

What Size Screw Does My 150 Headshell Use? And where do I get them?

Thanks From The Pale Blue Dot.

Just got Louvin Brothers on vinyl...Need to here!
 
Hey PBDot,

I don't know the exact size of the screw that my Thorens head shell uses, but I do know that I did find them at my local ACE hdwr store! I simply took the head shell with me and started opening drawers down that long row of nut, bolts, screws, and washers (among other things)....... and eventually I found some micro-mini screws that threaded in perfectly. I do believe they were in the 'metric' section.....and also in the Stainless Steel portion of those drawers. I grabbed the little brown envelope and filled it with pairs of different lengths..... and have used about all of them since that time. Maybe you can 'detach' your headshell and see if you can locate something suitable 'locally' by attempting the same thing. Also, I might add that I one time found some screws for a Thorens head shell at a 'hobby shop'. That was some years back...... but when the hdwr store fails, it's a viable alternative if you have one. Good luck, WC
 
What Size Screw Does My 150 Headshell Use? And where do I get them?
Thanks From The Pale Blue Dot.
No need to yell. We hear (here? ;)) you.
You can contact either/both KABusa and/or TurntableNeedles (google is your friend) and they should be able to help you.
 
Has anyone replaced the springs on a Thorens TD 150 mk2 with Herbies Tenderfeet? And if so, how did you do it? I am thinking of doing this, but I am on the fence.
Cheers, Doug
 
Hey Everyone,

Longtime Listener, First Time Caller.

Need Help! Just bought a TD 150 with kugel arm. The cartridge I have doesn't work with the screws I have. I know Thorens have wacky screws, but I ordered a set online and they are too small. Searched around every hardware store in town to find 2 mm screws. Found them, they don't work. Both screws from hardware and online seem to be same size.

What Size Screw Does My 150 Headshell Use? And where do I get them?

Thanks From The Pale Blue Dot.

Just got Louvin Brothers on vinyl...Need to here!

Try 2.5mm screws. :thmbsp:
 
Do you guys know where I can get the bias weight for my TD150-MKII - the little weight with the fish string on it? I have one that is too long. Or how is the best way to shorten it for my TD150 MKII ?

I have owned this since 1975 and do not remember changing it. MMMM - the 70's.
 
Td 147

thanks for the worlds Best audio forum.
Have both a td 160 and 147.

Can anyone give me some information why my 147 doesn't stop and lift arm when the LP ends?

What triggers that? Must be some mechanical thing when arm meets some end-point.???

Thanx a lot.
Br loncar
 
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