Vintage vs New amp/receiver headphone sockets.

Vintage vs New: Headphone configuration. .

I want to connect my PC to either a vintage or newer amp/receiver setup (second hand) or brand new/reduced/open box) and use the headphone socket (and headphones) to hear music/movies but what's the preferred method?
At the moment I am steering towards vintage why?
I have always believed its better made if they have lasted this long... etc.
What are your thoughts & experiences.

Also feel free to share pictures of your current setups and please share any advice and tips and headphone configurations so others will know that they work/compliment each other whether its vintage or new(er).

Thanks.

OP you're leaving out importance of a digital to analog converter. Essentially an external soundcard. Many onboard cards in computers and laptops are afterthoughts. The cost is kept down and they're subject to noise and interference from the rest of the computer. An external unit, even a cheap one greatly improves sound from a computer overall. Whether your files are lossy, lossless, streamed from the internet, or played right off the CD.

When I was putting together a system I did a couple things. I aimed for separate components that can be upgraded incrementally. I also aimed for a headphone amplifier that can double as a preamplifier for speakers. The components themselves are all new. I only went used on the turntable, studio monitors and subwoofer.

The desk


I live in a small place and near field for me is the name of the game for the foreseeable future.

The DAC.


Audioengine D1. Powered and fed by USB. I also plugged my old PS2 into it via the optical input for spinning CDs. I have less than a year left on the warranty with little to no urge to upgrade. Notable predators that I have auditioned are the Audioquest Dragonfly and the stupid cheap HiFiMeDIY Sabre DAC (thanks AK'er PAGS).

The separates


The Topping TP21 t-amp is a Chinese amp that puts out 25wpc of very crisp sound. Detractors abound and I have to say that I would like to replace it eventually.

The Headroom Micro Amp is truly something special. Made in Boseman Montana its a part of a now discontinued line of great American made headphone components. A crossfeed circuit and three gain settings allow for matching and best possible sound. 16 to 600 ohm headphones work just fine with it. It has an output tied to the volume pot and I routinely use it as just a preamp.

While many will atest to the attributes of using vintage amps for headphones I prefer the plug and play nature and reliability of new and near new gear. My hands are all thumbs. I cannot solder for my life and have no urge to restore aging vintage gear. Or spend the money on a good and reputable technician.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

great setup what if you had to replace (touch wood) HeadRoom Micro Amp whats the cheapest alternative?
HiFiMeDIY Sabre DAC how was your experience did it suffice?
need cheap as possible for movies what's your favourite headphones?

Sebastiene said:

great setup what if you had to replace (touch wood) HeadRoom Micro Amp whats the cheapest alternative?
HiFiMeDIY Sabre DAC how was your experience did it suffice?
need cheap as possible for movies what's your favourite headphones?

Click to expand...

It's tough actually. If I hadn't already had the Audioengine before buying the Headroom amp I'd have purchased the Maverick Audio D1. It's a dac, headphone amp and preamp all in one starting at about $200USD. The thing is that very few manufacturers add that dual capability to headphone amps letting you use them as a preamp. The Maverick Audio unit is still highly thought of as well though and great for the money. Maverick sells drop in upgrades for the dac and the tube buffer inside of it. So you can buy cheap and upgrade later if you like.

The Sabre dac is a hell of a bargain. If you ended up with a vintage unit, for minimal cash the Sabre will more than cover the DAC duties and do them well.

My favorite headphones are AKG. I have the Q701, K701, K550, K240S and K87 Tiesto. For movie watching though I go straight to the comfort. Two headphones I have really excel at comfort. Okay three. If I don't feel like using the Q701s, if they're TOO CLEAR, I go for either Bose AE2 or Skullcandy Aviators. Great headphones in their own right. Very comfortable. Colored but pleasing sound.

The Aune T1 would be a good alternative unit as well.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

RamblinE said:

The Aune T1 would be a good alternative unit as well.

Click to expand...

Thanks definitely room for thought.

RamblinE said:

Maverick Audio D1.

Click to expand...

Looks good

Found this

HiFimeDIY Sabre USB DAC 2

looks good what do you think?

The Sabre dac is a hell of a bargain.
Excellent

The FiiO any ideas?


Headphones
Q701s, Bose AE2 or Skullcandy Aviators. will check them out as well.

If anybody would like to add their opinions/setups & photos or ask advice please feel free.

Thanks
RamblinE

my advice to the OP: invest in one really good pair of headphones and spend the rest on a bigger monitor lol

NHT01 said:

my advice to the OP: invest in one really good pair of headphones and spend the rest on a bigger monitor lol

Click to expand...

I think you're referring to me? Even though I'm not the OP.

I'm currently happy with the Q701s. I'm not sure what oath I would take for a higher end set if cans. Until I know what direction I want to roll in I'm good on cans. I kind of collect headphones so I make a lot of nonupgrades. Just what I like to do.

As for the monitor? You're correct. Plan is for a 40-46 inch TV to plug into the Mac via HDMI.

Sent from my ZTE Olympia

I use my old Marantz 2220B's heaphone output, with very good results.

Stacker45 said:

I use my old Marantz 2220B's heaphone output, with very good results.

Click to expand...

I use the headphone-output on my restored 1964 Fisher 800C. Not the quietest receiver I've ever heard, but the sound of the headphone-out is primo. Runs straight off the power tubes, so you get the same great sound that your speakers get. I WAS planning on getting a headphone-amp, but then the Fisher found me (and the Fisher is a beautiful match for my Wharfedale W90's).

One thing I like is the Fisher's EQ, which is excellent for tailoring to a particular LP/CD, mono vs stereo mixes, and even a particular pair of headphones or speakers.

This is a decent, inexpensive alternative option: http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AQDRFLY2

Plug that puppy into a USB port on your PC and plug your head phones into the dragonfly DAC.

here is my totally reasonable... NO REALLY... pc desk / audio set up.

as you can see i have both small modern desktop dac/amp (FiiO E07K/E09K) and vintage receivers and whatnot... both options are good and viable depending on space and preference.. my little fiio sounds pretty good and takes up very little room but the headphone output on my Pioneer SX-3600 or Kenwood KR-V106R is also quite good.

If you want a musical-sounding DAC (or one to go with a musical, engaging amp or receiver), the HRT MSII is a good choice. A great first DAC. I've had mine for like 3 or 4 years. The only reason I mentioned upgrading is because it's the only part of my system that isn't TOTL. Everything else, my Fisher 800C, my Dual 1019, and my Wharfedale W90's, they were all the TOTL model for those brands at the time.

With DACs, it's good to remember that the analog output side is what determines the DAC's signature sound/sonic personality.

The Fisher, like I mentioned in a previous post, has an excellent headphone-output that runs off of the 7591 power tubes, so you get the same great sound with headphones that you get with speakers.

As to one of the original questions, vintage headphone out vs modern: I say go vintage. The headphone out is typically connected directly to the speaker taps with a drop-down resistor to reduce the power. Many of the newer models have OP-amp driven headphone out, so the you may find the quality lacking. As Gang-Twanger mentioned above, the vintage HP out will sound more like the speaker out (depending on you choice of speaker/can of course).

I only have two dedicated headphone amps now and otherwise use the Pioneer SX-1980 or Marantz 2265B. Both sound excellent out of the headphone jack and have plenty of power to drive even the HiFiMan HE-6.

AS far as what works, it's all over the place.
Some vintage receiver/amp headphone outputs sound good, some don't
Most modern gear headphone outputs don't cut it.
It also depends on the headphones. Easy to drive Grados work
on just about anything. I have a dedicated amp, but have good results with
the Sansui au-999 with just about everything I use on it.
AKG Q701's are much harder to drive then Senn hd-650's.
Both do well with the Sansui.

keitht said:

AS far as what works, it's all over the place.
Some vintage receiver/amp headphone outputs sound good, some don't
Most modern gear headphone outputs don't cut it.
It also depends on the headphones. Easy to drive Grados work
on just about anything. I have a dedicated amp, but have good results with
the Sansui au-999 with just about everything I use on it.
AKG Q701's are much harder to drive then Senn hd-650's.
Both do well with the Sansui.

Click to expand...

I have a 2000x receiver that has a good headphone-output sound. I bet the AU-999 is nice. Like you said, I think it runs off a resistor connected to the power amp section or something like that. Whatever the case, the better-sounding examples of old-school headphone-outputs have PERSONALITY. That's one thing that DIDN'T exist in the headphone-output of a certain $6000+ integrated amp by a well-known hi-fi manufacturer in the Northeast. And this was with my own headphones (Grados). And compared to the headphone-output on my Fisher 800C, forget about it. Like going from saccharin to pure cane sugar.

I have a question that I think is appropriate. I am planning on using a receiver as a headphone amp for a while, but don't plan to have any speakers hooked up. Should I put a dummy load on it, or should it be fine?

On a non-tube amp, don't worry about it. solid state doesn't care.
On some tube amps, big problem.

keitht said:

On a non-tube amp, don't worry about it. solid state doesn't care.
On some tube amps, big problem.

Click to expand...

This is how I am led to understand it as well.

Sent from my ZTE Olympia