B-2 Binding Posts

Uncle Paul

Uncle Paul

Super Member
Have any of you B-2 owners replaced the stock output terminals with binding posts? I'm getting spun up to renovate my pair (caps, certain semi's, pots, etc.) and this is on my punch list. Ideally, I want to do it so that it is reversible to the original terminals.

What binding posts did you use and how did you get them to fit? Also any issues I should know about. I do know that room behind the terminals is pretty tight, so I might build up something that will mount in their place that also mounts the binding posts.
 
Yeah....mine has the posts "upgraded".
Don't do this :no::no:

I was a sucker for buying it this way thinking that I can probably revert the "upgrade"...it is functional but not reversible. It has to be a better way to get this done professionally.:scratch2:
 

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Sorry to see that, but maybe you will run across one from a parts unit. I'm definitely removing and saving the original blocks, so when they eventually get passed along they could be restored.
 
Uncle Paul said:
Sorry to see that, but maybe you will run across one from a parts unit. I'm definitely removing and saving the original blocks, so when they eventually get passed along they could be restored.
Click to expand...

Yes, that would be an option...There may be some door stoppers around that could be bought for parts....I will keep looking.

The way I would consider the upgrade..in a true sense, would be by removing the entire posts block, as you suggested and use an adapter plate with new and modern posts. Unfortunately I did not have the time to look in to this yet. I was planning on sourcing the original replacement parts first before I take the amp apart...just in case the adapter plate scenario did not work.

What I would imagine of being a proper way to do this, would be something similar to the job done in this MX-1000 (see photos).

BTW, the type of posts used in my amp are not bad at all, they are just installed in a "demeaning manner" for the quality built of the B-2. I would consider using these or a similar type of posts, just mounted differently...
 

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rottalpha said:
Yes, that would be an option...There may be some door stoppers around that could be bought for parts....I will keep looking.

The way I would consider the upgrade..in a true sense, would be by removing the entire posts block, as you suggested and use an adapter plate with new and modern posts. Unfortunately I did not have the time to look in to this yet. I was planning on sourcing the original replacement parts first before I take the amp apart...just in case the adapter plate scenario did not work.

What I would imagine of being a proper way to do this, would be something similar to the job done in this MX-1000 (see photos).

BTW, the type of posts used in my amp are not bad at all, they are just installed in a "demeaning manner" for the quality built of the B-2. I would consider using these or a similar type of posts, just mounted differently...
Click to expand...

BTW...B-1 and B-2 OEM posts are the same.
 
rottalpha said:
Yeah....mine has the posts "upgraded".
Don't do this :no::no:

I was a sucker for buying it this way thinking that I can probably revert the "upgrade"...it is functional but not reversible. It has to be a better way to get this done professionally.:scratch2:
Click to expand...

Those posts are around $12 a set from china. (EBAY)
 
avionic said:
Those posts are around $12 a set from china. (EBAY)
Click to expand...

I was looking at those, does anybody have input on the quality? I'm curious about how the clear insulation hold up to being tightened on a spade or wire.

I've also been looking at Cardas, since they are a solid product that isn't priced out of reach, and they make them relatively close on the Oregon coast. I just wouldn't have the insulation option.
 
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Actually not bad for the money.I've had very good luck with them.
 
the ones on the amp are not bad at all. I can not vouch for how long they will hold up. I only have the amp for a couple of months and only used it once...to see that it works.
 
I would not use the bare metal kind for the simple fact of my paranoia..I will constantly be freaked out that something may fall on them short them out.
I am sure that there are better post out there, but these ones are pretty sturdy and for the money ..hard to beat.
 
rottalpha said:
Thanks Avionic!

I think that chances of finding a spare set of post from a B-1 may be even slimmer than finding them from a B-2. In the mean time I will keep looking..
Click to expand...

Patrice (clinic audio ) might be able to help you out.
 
rottalpha said:
the ones on the amp are not bad at all. I can not vouch for how long they will hold up. I only have the amp for a couple of months and only used it once...to see that it works.
Click to expand...

I have some just like it on an M-2 I bought from stoutblock. He couldn't remember exactly where he got them from. They are rock solid and I'm hoping these are the ones from eBay. Seems like 5 bux each is just too good a deal, which is why I was curious. Either way 20 bux isn't much of a risk, and if I don't like them I'll just stick them on Bartertown.

rottalpha said:
I would not use the bare metal kind for the simple fact of my paranoia..I will constantly be freaked out that something may fall on them short them out.
I am sure that there are better post out there, but these ones are pretty sturdy and for the money ..hard to beat.
Click to expand...

My worry as well. Speaker pin type connectors work fairly well with the original blocks, though I find they will loosen slightly over time. I'm always worried that the pins themselves may short with each other, so if I keep them stock will use heat shrink to cover the pins right up to the terminal.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to the insulated terminals, though.
 
Uncle Paul said:
I have some just like it on an M-2 I bought from stoutblock. He couldn't remember exactly where he got them from. They are rock solid and I'm hoping these are the ones from eBay.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure I got these off ebay for the M2



For my B-2 I used Cardas

IMG_6169B-2net.jpg
 
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Very nice - I like the IEC socket as well! My RCA replacements will be Cardas. Are you using nanners or spades?
 
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I'm partial to Vampire Wire. About the same price as Cardas which I've also used and like. They are non-insulated.

A-1 Before

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A-1 After

attachment.php


M-70

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M-2

attachment.php
 

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Another really well done job, er, couple three jobs - it makes me want to start tearing things apart before I have everything ready. Just curious, and I'm sure it's probably like splitting hairs, but what is it you prefer about the Vampires over Cardas?

At this point I think I'm going to go with high quality non insulated binding posts (it's Wednesday, right?) and spades that will have heat shrink insulation as close to the clamping area as possible.
 
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avionic said:
Patrice (clinic audio ) might be able to help you out.
Click to expand...

Thank you!
Yes Patrice is an awesome guy and he already offered to help.

After seeing Southblock's amp, I may just give up on sourcing the original posts.
 
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Uncle Paul said:
Another really well done job, er, couple three jobs - it makes me want to start tearing things apart before I have everything ready. Just curious, and I'm sure it's probably like splitting hairs, but what is it you prefer about the Vampires over Cardas?

At this point I think I'm going to go with high quality non insulated binding posts (it's Wednesday, right?) and spades that will have heat shrink insulation as close to the clamping area as possible.
Click to expand...

The color coding on the nut was a nice touch. Then again, cardas has a knurled nut. Sonically, I doubt anyone could tell the difference.

I think I was also sourcing them a bit cheaper at the time. I was using soniccraft.com. He still seems to have good prices but doesn't appear to carry the Vampire posts anymore.

http://www.soniccraft.com/index.php/connectors-binding-post-c-24_95

http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/cardas-ccgg-binding-post-p-1387
 
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