Most Common Parts Needed For Fishers!

larryderouin

I'm VERTICAL and Breathing...most of the time.
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I think we need a Sticky of the most "COMMON" or "UNIVERSAL" parts used in the 400-500C-800 or basically ANY FISHER, the same questions being asked over and over again after it being posted on a similar thread in the past few days to a week. Think of items common to all or most of them, items that can be had quite easily by going to Home Depot, RatShack, the local TV Shop.

I'll start off.

EDIT 08-06-2015. With the Demise of Radioshack (Don't everyone clap and cheer all at once!) Part #1 is not available. An equivalent (actually better) part is available from MOUSER.
1.) Selenium Rectifier replacement. FULL WAVE BRIDGE RECTIFIER. 400V
8AMP. (8A 400V Rectron: Mouser # 583-BR84 ) (I can count on both hands plus a couple of toes, this question has been asked in the last month.). This is a good replacement for the 400-500 and 800 series. It should be ok for others that use selenium rectifiers. BUT for the Hell of it, check your MATH before getting one if it's not a 400,500B/C, 800B/C.

2.) FUSE HOLDER OR CAP REPLACEMENT. Missing the cap? Oaktree wants $25. or more for the part? Get a NEW HOLDER. . INLINE with spec 250VAC 10A. Again check Mouser or Digikey or your local electronics store

3.) CORD. ONLY IF IT's BAD. HOME DEPOT, LOWES, Anywhere that sells 6-9-12ft twin lead extension cords in Brown, Black, White. Make sure it's NO LESS than 18GA but 16 would be preferred. Cut off the FEMALE END and solder in the leads. You can Dremel the Wide blade down to same size as the other and put the tag on and reverse it to get least amount of HUM per FISHER Instructions. If you want to keep the plug polarzed, make sure that lead goes thru the (ON/OFF) SWITCH. Otherwise if not polarized, check for least amount of hum and mark that side showing at the plug to id it.

4.) LIGHT BULBS. AK MEMBER DGWOJO especially for the "FUSE TYPE" and FESTOON Bulbs.

5.) OFF/ON Switch/Volume Pot. Either a donor unit, or www.metalbone.net. He has the switch for the 400-500C-800C. they can be used in other models. You can also get them on THAT Auction site. EDIT 08-06-2016: Specific information for the switch is in this thread..... http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....to-know-about-the-fisher-power-switch.727821/

Mark Oppat @ www.oldradio parts.com
"I can either fix or make a new control for your set. Price is same either way... about $50 + $3 postage. Send it in a small box with all you contact info and a check. Turn around is usually a week or two." If your tone or Balance pot is off then contact him. He might be able to fix it.
Mark Oppat
Antique Audio
253 Blanche St
Plymouth, MI. 48170 USA
www.oldradioparts.net
734-20-RADIO 11am-8pm EST



6.) Restoration Kits. Jim McShane, Metalbone, or FisherDoc on that Auction Site. For The BEST QUALITY, go with McSHANE, then Metalbone, finally FisherDoc. McShane doesn't have kits for FISHERS listed, but based on what model you have, he will build a kit that exceeds the specs in every way, period! His caps are better quality than the other two, as are his resistors, and other parts. Metalbone and Fisherdoc's don't have the LARGE FILTER CAPS. McShane's do, IF THE APPROPRIATE CAPS ARE AVAILABLE. If not available, he will recommend and build around separate filter caps. You will have to get them separately if you get a Metalbone or FisherDoc kit.

McShane's Kits are for the more advanced hobbyist that has done restorations before and can find his way around a schematic and chassis. To my knowledge, He doesn't include Schematics. Check tho.

Metalbone has a "With Schematic/SM", and a "without schematic/SM" kit. You WILL get the correct schematic/S.M. based on the Serial Number of your unit. For the Intermediate Hobbyist that has done a restoration or two.

FisherDoc. Kit's come with basic low to mid level quality parts, fairly good instructions, but not too many pictures for the just starting out hobbyist.
Fairly easy to complete, but spends too much time tooting own horn on instructions. Not really recommended. DISREGARD HIS INSTRUCTIONS re; FM MPX Changes. TWO DIFFERENT KITS, 10000-29999, and 30000 and up.

OOOORRRRRRR.................If you're REALLY MASOCHISTIC, is to figure out what caps, resistors, diodes, etc., you want yourself that meet or exceed specs, by going thru Mouser, Digikey, Newark, AES, ETC. Or Even so far as to order "Boutique" or "Beverly Hills" caps , resistors, etc, that cost 5-10 times more but may or may not give you the results you want.

7.) Thermistors. Basically a temperature controlled resistor. Cold temp = high resistance, high temp=low resistance. It controls the inbound voltage and basically ramps it up instead of hitting it all at once. Good for switch contacts and capacitors. CL-80/ CL-90 seem to be popular versions. Available @ mouser / digikey/ newark etc.

8.) knob brights. there are a few dealers on Ebay. Check the posts below for details.

9.) knobs. Donor units. There are 3 different types I've seen. A. Large Ribbed with concave disc in the center like for a TA-500 MONO. B. Small ribbed with Brass cap and trim piece like on the X-202, 400, 500&800 B&C, and C. the Small SMOOTH type with brass cap, like on the 550-T, or any of the Transistorized separates. I'll try and get some pics up shortly (11-6-11). Then there are the console knobs. They pretty much stayed the same as the receiver knobs with a few exceptions. The consolette's of 1958-59 have a large flat knob with a coolie hat insert. Looks kinda like a 57 Dodge hubcap(go figure).

10.) Dial Glass?? A.) Have a local shop cut you a piece. Then scan the old one in to a prgm on your computer and delete the cracks, leaving just the numbers and such. Print to a transparancy with the sticky side on the front so it will stick to the back of the glass. make it as large as the glass so as to not show lines. 2.) Find one on Ebay or Bartertown if you are a subscriber.

11.) 12v 3A C.T. Transformer to make a bucking transformer. This one is a good performer and you can have 2 different voltages (6V and 12V) on the output side. Model: 273-1511 | Catalog #: 273-1511 12.6V CT 3.0A Chassis-Mount Transformer with Leads



Larry
 
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As far as the cord goes, unless it's cut or visibly damaged, I wouldn't worry about it. The Fisher-logo cords don't seem to break down at all. Cheap extension cords are a great way to replace damaged cords, though - almost always cheaper than any other option.
 
Where to get the thermistor to keep your on/off working? Where to order those small strange electrolytic capacitors? I'll think of more in a minute :D
 
GUYS, the idea is to add your idea of the most common parts and a solution (ie: part # and where to get it.).

brass knob covers from what I understand, there are 2 or 3 dealers on the auction site that deal in them. One has caps with a painted on indicator, the other is stamped or recessed. as I've not dealt with them, this is all I know.

thermistors mouser, digikey, Newark. CL-80 is in mine.

strange little capacitors?? Jason if you have a picture of one, a replacement can probably be found.

Larry
 
Knob brights?
non-beveled non-fading: Bizzy Bee http://www.angelfire.com/biz/bizzyb/. Sorry, bizzybee is no longer with us. Use ebay.
beveled: Ebay.
Thermister: Make sure one leg goes to one of the two primaries of the power transformer. I usually use them as an in-series replacement for the wire that goes between one leg of the fuse receptacle and the extra AC outlets. The thermister replaces the connector wire. The goal is to eliminate arcing in the switch upon turn-on.

Actually, as I've matured in the hobby, I've moved to two thermisters. See later in the thread for placement.
 
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Theres a few of them, I got suitable replacements from justradios.com. They are very strange values.

You mean like .005 or such? That's the old numbering system. Use the 5 to10% rule. 5 to 10% either way is OK on value, as the old ones had a tolerance of usually 50% in a lot of cases. I've seen -20% to +90% tolerance on caps before.

Larry
 
Just an update on Fisher rebuild kits from Jim McShane. I querried him on a kit for my 100T and quoted the first post in this thread
For The BEST QUALITY, go with McSHANE, then Metalbone, finally FisherDoc. McShane doesn't have kits for FISHERS listed, but based on what model you have, he will build a kit that exceeds the specs in every way, period! His caps are better quality than the other two, as are his resistors, and other parts. NONE of the kits contain the LARGE POWER SUPPLY CAPS.

Jim replied right away and will be putting a kit together for me but also wanted to update AK with this info:

BTW, my kits DO include the large caps if there are appropriate caps available. I only recommend separate caps if there I don't post at AK anymore, but if you would correct that misinformation on the forum I'd really appreciate it!
 
Corrections MADE in original post. Thanks Bob. I was going on what I had heard and seen of some kits that people had put in 400's.
 
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Theres a few of them, I got suitable replacements from justradios.com. They are very strange values.

Are you talking about those weird little tubular ceramic things, about the size of a fat grain of rice? I've encountered them in a few pieces of Fisher gear. So far, I've left them alone.
 
Now we've all got something to point the new guys to without pulling what little hair we've got left, out! I hate trying to remember where I put all those numbers and parts at.

Larry
 
I don't know if this is the right place but I have some Fisher pieces, multiplex assembly, 500 tuning head with nuvistors, etc. sitting about in my parts bins.
 
I don't know if this is the right place but I have some Fisher pieces, multiplex assembly, 500 tuning head with nuvistors, etc. sitting about in my parts bins.

Good morning, Rob!

Actually, this thread is to list the values, sources, etc., for bridges, resistors, capacitors and so forth for restoration purposes for various Fisher models.

Best place to list stuff that a member has to swap would be in BT.

Clay
 
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