SX-750 Best Cap List

two.dogs

Active Member
Apologies in advance for the long post, but I'm a confused person trying to be as clear as possible. I've been digging around looking for the cap list and found this thread...

"Pioneer Recap Lists" Sticky suggestion!
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=457663

It sends me to another thread. The post is from 11/25/2010 and seems based upon a list Mark made on 11/23/2009...

Recap question
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=334748&highlight=Recap+list
New BOM All in Stock

598-DSF100J104
667-ECQ-V1224JM
667-ECQ-V1224JM
667-ECQ-V1224JM
667-ECQ-V1H474JL3
667-ECQ-V1H474JL3
667-ECQ-V1H474JL3
647-UKL1H010KDDANA
647-UKL1H010KDDANA
647-UKL1H010KDDANA
647-UKL1H010KDDANA
647-UKL1H010KDDANA
647-UKL1H010KDDANA
647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
647-UPW1H3R3MDD
647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA
647-UKL1J4R7MDD
647-UKL1J4R7MDD
647-UPW1H4R7MDD
647-UKL1J4R7MDD
647-UPW1H4R7MDD
647-UKL1J4R7MDD
647-UPW1H100MDD6
647-UPW1H100MDD6
647-UPW1H100MDD6
647-UPW1H100MDD6
647-UPW1V470MED1TD
647-UPW1A101MDD
647-UPW1A101MDD
647-UPW1A101MDD
647-UPW1A101MDD
647-UPW1A101MDD
647-UPW1H101MPD
647-UPW1H101MPD
647-UPW1H101MPD
647-UPW1H101MPD
647-UPW1H101MPD
647-UPW1H101MPD
647-UPW1H101MPD
647-UPW1H101MPD
647-UPW1H101MPD
647-UPW1H101MPD
647-UPW1A221MED
647-UPW1A221MED
647-UPW1A221MED
647-UPW1A221MED
647-UPW1A221MED
647-UPW1V221MPD
647-UPW1V221MPD
647-UPW1V221MPD
647-UPW1V221MPD
647-UPW1V221MPD
647-UPW1V221MPD
647-UPW1V221MPD
647-UPW1V221MPD
647-UPW1V221MPD
647-UPW1V221MPD
647-UPW1A331MPD
647-UPW1A331MPD
647-UPW1H331MPD
647-UPW1H331MPD
647-UPW1E471MPD

However, I also found this thread with a list that Mark made on 10/5/2010...

SX-750 Mouser parts list for recap?

http://mail.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=4043970#post4043970
Nevermind, It was done and posted elsewhere already, and I had the spreadsheets. I adjusted THIS list for current stock:

BUT

awe-073 c47 3.3 10v csza 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA
is out of stock with no replacements. Leave the original in for now....
estimated delivery date is middle of November

you will also have to look VERY carefully at:
awe-073 c86 4.7 16v ceanlnp 4.7 50 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA
to see what is on the board, a polarized cap with polarity markings, or a non-polarized cap without polarity markings, as well as the color of the capacitor and whether the material the leads protrude through is a rubbery seal or a hard black shiny epoxy. The schematic shows polarized.



awm-094 c1 2.2 25v csza 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
awm-094 c2 2.2 25v csza 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
awm-094 c3 10 35v cea 10 50 647-UPW1H100MDD
awm-094 c5 100 35v cea 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
awm-094 c7 1 25v csza 1 50 647-UKL1H010KDDANA

awg-046 c1 0.47 25v cssa 0.47 100 667-ECQ-E1474KF
awg-046 c2 0.47 25v cssa 0.47 100 667-ECQ-E1474KF
awg-046 c3 100 6v cea 100 10 647-UPW1A101MDD6
awg-046 c4 100 6v cea 100 10 647-UPW1A101MDD6
awg-046 c7 220 35v cea 220 35 647-UPW1V221MPD
awg-046 c8 220 35v cea 220 35 647-UPW1V221MPD
awg-046 c9 4.7 25v ceanl 4.7 50 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA
awg-046 c10 4.7 25v ceanl 4.7 50 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA

awh-046 c1 1 25v csza 1 50 647-UKL1H010KDDANA
awh-046 c2 1 25v csza 1 50 647-UKL1H010KDDANA
awh-046 c7 220 6v cea 220 6.3 647-UPW0J221MED
awh-046 c8 220 6v cea 220 6.3 647-UPW0J221MED
awh-046 c9 100 35v cea 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
awh-046 c10 100 35v cea 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
awh-046 c13 220 6v cea 220 6.3 647-UPW0J221MED
awh-046 c14 220 6v cea 220 6.3 647-UPW0J221MED

awr-099 c1 0.22 10v cssa 0.22 250 667-ECQ-E2224KF
awr-099 c2 0.22 10v cssa 0.22 250 667-ECQ-E2224KF
awr-099 c3 330 6v cea 330 10 647-UPW1A331MPD
awr-099 c4 330 6v cea 330 10 647-UPW1A331MPD
awr-099 c5 3.3 10v cea 3.3 50 647-UPW1H3R3MDD
awr-099 c6 220 16v cea 220 16 647-UPW1C221MPD
awr-099 c7 220 16v cea 220 16 647-UPW1C221MPD
awr-099 c8 100 35v cea 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
awr-099 c9 100 50v cea 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
awr-099 c10 100 50v cea 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
awr-099 c11 4.7 35v cea 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
awr-099 c12 220 16v cea 220 16 647-UPW1C221MPD
awr-099 c13 100 35v cea 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
awr-099 c15 100 50v cea 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
awr-099 c16 100 50v cea 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
awr-099 c17 330 50v cea 330 50 647-UPW1H331MPD
awr-099 c18 330 50v cea 330 50 647-UPW1H331MPD

awr-100 c1 470 10v cea 470 16 647-UPW1E471MPD

awe-073 c27 0.47 50v cea 0.47 100 667-ECQ-E1474KF
awe-073 c41 100 16v cea 100 50 647-UPW1H101MPD
awe-073 c42 220 16v cea 220 16 647-UPW1C221MPD
awe-073 c45 4.7 16v csza 4.7 50 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA
awe-073 c46 1 25v csza 1 50 647-UKL1H010KDDANA
awe-073 c47 3.3 10v csza 3.3 50 647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA
awe-073 c48 0.22 35v csza 0.22 250 667-ECQ-E2224KF
awe-073 c54 220 6v cea 220 6.3 647-UPW0J221MED
awe-073 c60 4.7 35v cea 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
awe-073 c61 47 6v cea 47 10 647-UPW1A470MDD6
awe-073 c62 220 16v cea 220 16 647-UPW1C221MPD
awe-073 c66 0.1 35v csza 0.1 50 598-DSF050J
awe-073 c80 10 16v cea 10 50 647-UPW1H100MDD
awe-073 c81 10 16v cea 10 50 647-UPW1H100MDD
awe-073 c82 1 25v csza 1 50 647-UKL1H010KDDANA
awe-073 c83 1 25v csza 1 50 647-UKL1H010KDDANA
awe-073 c84 220 25v cea 220 35 647-UPW1V221MPD
awe-073 c85 220 25v cea 220 35 647-UPW1V221MPD
awe-073 c86 4.7 16v ceanlnp 4.7 50 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA
awe-073 c88 100 6v cea 100 10 647-UPW1A101MDD6
awe-073 c89 100 6v cea 100 10 647-UPW1A101MDD6
awe-073 c98 2.2 25v csza 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
awe-073 c99 2.2 25v csza 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
awe-073 c102 2.2 25v csza 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
awe-073 c105 2.2 25v csza 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
awe-073 c106 220 35v cea 220 35 647-UPW1V221MPD
awe-073 c111 10 16v cea 10 50 647-UPW1H100MDD

awk-065 c3 100 10v cea 100 10 647-UPW1A101MDD6

These two cap lists seem similar, but... The first list has caps by Cornel and doesn't follow Mark's thorough naming convention. The second list seems to be entirely Nichicon. Which list is better? I'm leaning toward the second list as it appears to be the latest from Mark. Is there another newer list that I've missed? Recap is definitely needed. I just bought this unit and it plays with loud hum independent of volume. Caps AWR-099 C17 and C18 are both open circuit. Tuners scare me so I think I'll skip the AWE-73 caps. I'm also not planning to replace transistors, but are there some select problem children that I should swap?

Twodogs
 
It's an either or dilemma. The Cornell Dubliers are small value Films to replace electrolytics in the 1 to 3uf range. As are the ECQ's. But seeing as this list is 4 years old, it's best to wait on Mark or Matt to see if there are any updates. This way you get the latest updated list.
 
I've been reading Panamafred's thread and its making me think I should replace the transistors too.
 
Not necessarily. The 750 uses different transistors than the 737. By the time the 750 came out PIONEER had learned about the problems with the troublesome transistors in the earlier series receivers/amps and changed them.

If the unit is running in all modes, then just do the caps. They are the parts that dry out and go bad. Transistor failures are caused by failures of other parts. So if it's running fine right now, leave the transistors alone unless MARK the Fixer or one of the other Techs tell you to specifically replace one.

Larry
 
I'm looking forward to Mark's input here as well. I've got a mint SX-750 that plays with no issues in all modes, but feel I'm tempting fate each time I light it up and would like to do a comprehensive recap. = )
 
ron; Best to start your own thread. If this one turns into an overhaul thread it gets confusing real fast with more than 1 unit on here.

Larry
 
Just looking for the latest cap list at this point Larry. When I break ground, I'll start my own thread, thx!
 
That would be fun to have two SX750 resto threads going at once. Ron, the older 750 threads have some really good general info. I learned a lot just digging through them.

twodogs
 
Well I think I'm pretty safe to make an order. All of these come from Mark except the 2 caps and 2 trimmer resistors that I found. I think this is about $20 for the caps and $15 for the transistors.

Caps
I just checked Mark's list made 10/5/2010 http://mail.audiokarma.org/forums/sh...70#post4043970 (also copied in original post). Two aren't available at Mouser, and two should be changed to higher voltage...
awg-046 c1 0.47 25v cssa 0.47 100 667-ECQ-E1474KF (not available sub with 667-ECQ-E2474KB3?)
awg-046 c2 0.47 25v cssa 0.47 100 667-ECQ-E1474KF (not available sub with 667-ECQ-E2474KB3?)
awr-099 c17 330 50v cea 330 50 647-UPW1H331MPD (sub with 63 volt 647-UPW1J331MHD)
awr-099 c18 330 50v cea 330 50 647-UPW1H331MPD (sub with 63 volt 647-UPW1J331MHD)
The higher voltage sub was recommended by Mark here http://mail.audiokarma.net/forums/showthread.php?t=281084&page=2

Transistors
This list is from Mark's post 55 here http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=264007&page=4
I've deleted everything Mark says to leave alone, and perhaps found better fitting trim pots?)

Filters & Muting Assembly
leave alone - all

Power Amplifier Assembly
AWH-046 Q3 2SC1438-V 512-KSC2383YTA
AWH-046 Q4 2SC1438-V 512-KSC2383YTA
AWH-046 Q5 2SD357-C 512-KSC2690AYS
AWH-046 Q6 2SD357-C 512-KSC2690AYS
AWH-046 Q7 2SB527-C 512-KSA1220AYS
AWH-046 Q8 2SB527-C 512-KSA1220AYS
AWH-046 D1 1S2473 512-1n4148
AWH-046 D2 1S2473 512-1n4148
AWH-046 VR1 100ohm 652-3386H-1-101LF (Maybe 652-3352V-1-101LF is a better fit?)
AWH-046 VR2 100ohm 652-3386H-1-101LF (Maybe 652-3352V-1-101LF is a better fit?)

Power Supply & Protection Assembly
AWR-099 Q1 2SC869-C 512-KSC1845FTA
AWR-099 Q2 2SC869-C 512-KSC1845FTA
AWR-099 Q3 2SC945-A 512-KSC1845FTA
AWR-099 Q4 2SC945-A 512-KSC1845FTA
AWR-099 Q6 2SC945-A 512-KSC2383YTA
AWR-099 Q7 2SC1384-R 512-KSC2690AYS
AWR-099 Q8 2SD313-D 512-KSC2073TU
AWR-099 Q9 2SC945-Q 512-KSC2383YTA
AWR-099 Q10 2SD313-D 512-KSC2073TU
AWR-099 Q11 2SC945-Q 512-KSC2383YTA
AWR-099 Q12 2SB507-D 512-KSA940TU
AWR-099 D1 1S1554 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D2 1S1554 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D3 1S1554 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D4 1S1554 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D5 1S1555 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D6 1S1555 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D7 1S1555 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D8 1S1554 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D9 1S1555 512-1n4004
AWR-099 D10 WZ-140 512-1N5244B
AWR-099 D11 WZ-240 512-1N5252B
AWR-099 D12 WZ-140 512-1N5244B

Power Supply Assembly
AWR-100 D1 1S1885 512-1n4004
AWR-100 D2 1S1886 512-1n4004
AWR-100 D3 1S1886 512-1n4004
AWR-100 D4 1S1886 512-1n4004
AWR-100 D5 1S1886 512-1n4004
AWR-100 D6 SR3AM-8 512-1N5404
AWR-100 D7 SR3AM-8 512-1N5404
AWR-100 D8 SR3AM-8 512-1N5404
AWR-100 D9 SR3AM-8 512-1N5404

Tuner, AF & Control Assembly
leave alone, mostly (I'm not doing this board anyway)
 
Thanks for posting your latest two! Every rebuild thread has something of value for the uninitiated, so I'll look forward to hearing how you're progressing on your project. = )
 
Parts came in and I recapped the AWR-099 board. Loud 60hz hum stopped as expected and the unit works. There is now a fainter hum that varies with volume on all sources that I hope will correct itself when I service the preamp board.

Next I still have to replace the transistors and diodes in the AWR-099. I didn't order the following because Mouser says obsolete.
AWR-099 Q6 2SC945-A 512-KSC2383YTA
AWR-099 Q9 2SC945-Q 512-KSC2383YTA
AWR-099 Q11 2SC945-Q 512-KSC2383YTA

Can I use 512-KSC1845FTA for these? Also two of the transistors have heatsinks. Looks like thermal grease but no insulators? Is Arctic Silver ok to use?

Two.dogs
 

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Searched Mouser and saw the 512-KSC2383YTA is back order until mid Oct, The 512-KSC2383OTA is available now and looks like it might be a better replacement for the original 2SC945-Q.

2SC945-Q 50V, .1A, .25W, 135hFE
512-KSC2383YTA 160V, .5A, .9W, 160-320hFE
512-KSC2383OTA 160V, .5A, .9W, 100-200hFE

I'll order some OTAs. Did some research on Artic Silver and won't use it because its electrically conductive. I'll also get some insulator pads just in case, and some thermal grease.

532-4170 pads
567-120-2 grease

Does anyone have a recommendation on a good commercial brand flux remover?
 
Side note; The Fluke 117 is a perfect DMM for this hobby and you can't beat the DCA55! Gain matching and all! I just finished the Blue ESR meter kit, Sweet. If you have the 275mHz set, you could be my evil twin brother.
 
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That's funny. I agree that good test equipment makes things so much easier. I'll put in a plug for the Hakko 808. Saves time and lifted traces compared with solder wick or manual sucker. Look what arrived on my front porch today - had to change my signature.

Two.dogs
 

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Don't tell me you have one of those too!!
Sound Technologies 1000A!
Now, I am jealous!!
 
I had to wait until I got some thermal grease but things are moving again now. Caps are in on the 099 and 046 boards and I'm doing the transistors now. Now sure how to proceed with these two parts though. The old are TO220 and the new are TO126 (see pic). Do I still use the same heatsink? Looks like the legs might not reach through the board.

AWH-046 Q5 2SD357-C 512-KSC2690AYS
AWH-046 Q6 2SD357-C 512-KSC2690AYS
 

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Now sure how to proceed with these two parts though. The old are TO220 and the new are TO126 (see pic). Do I still use the same heatsink? Looks like the legs might not reach through the board.

AWH-046 Q5 2SD357-C 512-KSC2690AYS
AWH-046 Q6 2SD357-C 512-KSC2690AYS

Drill a new hole in the heat sink.
 
That's funny. Its the first thing that came to mind but I thought I'd be accused of being a hack! I'll drill, tap, use a slightly longer screw, shmear with grease and solder it in.
 
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