Restoration Begins (ROK CVS-12)

bob06

Addicted Member
When I first bought the CVS-12 I got it running and couldn't believe all the noise and rumble this thing made. So also in my restoration I what to see if I can quiet it down. So I started by servicing the motor that has been completed in another thread. Next is the face plate. I ended up using Dynomat to cover the underside of the plate and also did the bearing. I covered whatever I could without interfering with the workings of it. This is just a start of some of the noise reduction I have planned. Not sure if it will work but the way I figure it whatever noise I can stop or cut down on is a plus in my book.
 

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Once you get it bolted down into a massive layered plinth, it will be pretty quiet with or without the Dynamat. At least, that is my experience with the similar L-34.
 
I forgot to mention in the beginning that this is going to be a cheap and easy build. I plan on keeping it as original as I can. Next up I'm restoring the faceplate. You can see in the photo that it is in real nice shape. All the lettering is perfect. The paint is starting to crack from age but I will address that. There are some chips that I will try to touch up. Then I will give it a couple of coats of clear when done.
 

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Once you get it bolted down into a massive layered plinth, it will be pretty quiet with or without the Dynamat. At least, that is my experience with the similar L-34.
Yes the plinth will for sure quiet a lot of noise. But I figured while I have it apart I would dampen whatever I could.
 
Looks like good fun to me! I'm guessing damping the platter if possible will help out with definition as well?
 
Next up the Arm. I want to keep the stock Arm. It's nothing special but it is a cool looking 12" Arm. I like it looks Art Deco and it is the original Arm to the table. It needs to be rewired and some Bonehead filed the slides of the Arm to install the flip cartridge. Not knowing you can buy one that flips in front. I will fill the voids with JB Weld then paint the Arm. It will look lovely when done.
 

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That sounds interesting!

Here you go. I made one while other stuff was drying. Needs some fine tuning but you get the idea. The Lead I'm using is .062 thick. The piece you see weights in at .533 Lbs. When all 3 pieces are on about 1 1/2 Lbs. more added to the total weight of the platter. And very sound dead. Plus Superman can't see thru it. :D
 

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Here you go. I made one while other stuff was drying. Needs some fine tuning but you get the idea. The Lead I'm using is .062 thick. The piece you see weights in at .533 Lbs. When all 3 pieces are on about 1 1/2 Lbs. more added to the total weight of the platter. And very sound dead. Plus Superman can't see thru it. :D

Bob,
I just got home and read your thread on restoration of CVS-12. Quick question for you that have you try to spin the platter with Dynamat is on the platter? I afraid it will touch the idler wheel's post.

Binh
 
I added Dynamat to the underside of my Rondine Jr. platter. It did very little to lower the noise floor, more noticeable was how it took some of the edge off the 'table's sonic liveliness. I'm going to clean it off soon. It was a waste of time and material.

I've learned from applying Dynamat to this table as well as a Rega Planar i used to have and a couple older DDs that it's easy for me to kill the life of a 'table by adding too much damping. (adding the prescribed postcard size square of Dynamat to the underside of the Rega really, really dulled its overall character. )

As for adding weight to the platter, that will increase the load and therefore the friction on the ball bearing at the bottom of the main bearing well which could actually mill a divot into the bottom of the shaft increasing contact area further increasing friction (and noise). I'm also not sure what effect you're going for by adding that weight; since this 'table is idler driven, it doesn't rely on inertia for speed stability.

I can appreciate that these 'tables can make fun and engaging playgrounds and no harm done if everything is reversible (although I might be concerned about making a dimple in the bottom of the main bearing shaft w/the added platter weight), but I've found that simply restoring my Rondine L-37 back to original specs (new motor mount grommets and idler wheel rubber, etc) and mounting it in a solid plinth leaves little desire for improvement.
 
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Bob,
I just got home and read your thread on restoration of CVS-12. Quick question for you that have you try to spin the platter with Dynamat is on the platter? I afraid it will touch the idler wheel's post.

Binh

I did measure it and I believe it will work. Before I do glue the Lead I will tape it in place first then spin the platter. :thmbsp:
 
As for as the dynamat goes you could be right. Adding to much might suck the life out of it. But as for adding weight to the platter is not that big of a deal. There are TT's with 30lbs platters on them. Never heard of them having problems. I have 3 Idlers with heavier platters than what's on the CVS and I haven't had any problems with mine. People use heavier record weights than what I'm adding to the ROK.:D
 
As for as the dynamat goes you could be right. Adding to much might suck the life out of it. But as for adding weight to the platter is not that big of a deal. There are TT's with 30lbs platters on them. Never heard of them having problems. I have 3 Idlers with heavier platters than what's on the CVS and I haven't had any problems with mine. People use heavier record weights than what I'm adding to the ROK.:D

It is true there are heavier platters out there, but there are also motors which have been designed to turn heavier platters. Just a thought.
 
It is true there are heavier platters out there, but there are also motors which have been designed to turn heavier platters. Just a thought.

The Death Cube is bigger, spins faster and has more torque than the Thorens 124 but spins a lighter platter than the 124. Just a thought.
 
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