Mc240 Rebuild - Question and Progress

I was just looking at and thinking about the amp,s audio board. The resistors are the easiest to swap out if you build it like McIntosh built it. I've got a good few hours work left before I start repopulating it with components. That actually translates to a few days to a week when free time is taken into consideration. So I'm going to continue with Jim's kit until I hear from you on the resistors. If I have Togo back and change 20 or 39 down the road, no biggie.
 
I agree with that. But then there is the whole "carbon 'sounds' better" camp along with the PIO Caps sound better camp. I really wish I had a couple of these to build with different components to test that.

Jims kit may not be the cheapest way but tuned for 'best' sound with the Cit-II. Do some Websearch in on that and on using the Cit-II kit in the Macs.

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ked to him this evening.His bottom line is that for the most part,he doesn't like MF resistors in McIntosh amps.He said that it was stated in some Mac service bulletins not to use them.He said that he likes carbon comps for the grid resistors and that CF resistors are generally OK.He thinks that the brighter sound that I'm hearing now is the effect of so many MF resistors in the kit.He likes the K-40 PIO coupling caps.I know that many have used MF resistors and like the results,so I would advise you to ask Terry for his opinion before you change the resistors.
Dave
 
Did Jim say what benifit the extra cap parallel to C27 provides?What is the value of the extra cap?
What he told me is "any noise on the bias supply gets passed to the power tubes I want QUIET bias lines" and "Any disturbances on the bias supply is amplified by the output tubes. Disturbances in the B+ are at least partially canceled in the output section of a push-pull amp. Remember - any changes to the power tube grids look like signal to the tubes - so they amplify it all."

An electrical engineering basic is that if you really want to bypass a power, you need to filter high and lower frequencies out. If the big cap were an "ideal" capacitor, you would not need the smaller value one. But it's not; it has parasitic resistance and inductance.

I'm pretty sure I have on kicking around somewhere. Especially if it only needs to be a 1/4 watt.
He also was pretty adamant about NOT putting a resistor in series with the new bias diode, saying the higher (more negative) Vbias is important (with today's higher line voltages). I don't quite follow that, honestly, as it seems to me that Vbias would track with B+ as line voltage increases. But I decided to just trust McShane, he's been doing this a lot longer than me.
 
Since the bias supply is common shared I dunno why common mode cancellation wouldn't also apply here.

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He also was pretty adamant about NOT putting a resistor in series with the new bias diode, saying the higher (more negative) Vbias is important (with today's higher line voltages). I don't quite follow that, honestly, as it seems to me that Vbias would track with B+ as line voltage increases. But I decided to just trust McShane, he's been doing this a lot longer than me.

It's all Latin to me. As in, I understand the prefixes and suffixes enough to sort out a lot of the meaning, but don't speak the language.

Terry recommends setting the resistor to get -46 on the bias when the B+ is 435vdc because that was the original intent. I went with his recommendation. On the other hand, Jim has been doing this for a long time and is the Terry of Citation II as far as my reading goes. I don't know if a McShane Citation II pulls the same resale bump as a DeWick Mac does but his reputation seems to follow Terry's and reading his site does give me confidence.

That all said, I'm sticking with Terry on the selenium rectifier replacement and using the diode+ resistor. I'm also keeping the Black Beauty Caps as Terry claims that you aren't going to find a better cap for the Mc240 and it is a metal foil cap.

The other place that Jim seems to veer off is the 10K-10% resistors (R10&R33) on the input side of the circuit. He has these swapped out to 1K-5%. I'm not really sure what the purpose of that would be other than to maybe increase the input volume? Does anyone have any thoughts on this? At this time I've pulled and tested the 10Ks, one measured at 9.99 and the other at 10.05. Both well within spec so I left them in circuit.

To be honest, of all the resistors I've pulled, only 1, 56K-10%, tested out of spec at 61K although there have been a few that were right on the edge of their limit.

My intent at this point is to swap the rest of the resistors with the ones that Jim supplied. Mostly because re-using the ones I pulled would be difficult at best.
 
Having your sketches posted here are a great service for current and future Mc240 restoration projects.It will allow me to see if the tech changed any leads from the power suppy sections to the board.
 
Having your sketches posted here are a great service for current and future Mc240 restoration projects.It will allow me to see if the tech changed any leads from the power suppy sections to the board.

That is one of the reasons I'm doing them. I could do a part for part swap but I wouldn't learn all that much. Sketching out the Caps, resistors and wire runs with their terminus labeled helps me to understand the circuits and I'm learning a ton. A run may be labeled BL/W (V3-4) which translates to "Blue wire White stripe terminating at Valve 3 pin 4."

I hope to have time tonight to do a bit more on the sketch. But the weather outside is freaking beautiful so I may find myself on a beach eating a sandwich thinking about what route to take back on the bike. ::rockon:
 
I've a bit of a puzzle. I'm looking for C2 and C12. According to the schematic, the larger part in the pic could be it, but it looks like a 2w resistor to me. The 2.2k running parallel to the larger part is correct for the circuit if it is a cap. Is it a cap?

Secondary, is it a film cap or electrolytic? My plan on those resistors is to measure them to insure they are matched to 1% of each other and keep them if they are.
 

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I've a bit of a puzzle. I'm looking for C2 and C12. According to the schematic, the larger part in the pic could be it, but it looks like a 2w resistor to me. The 2.2k running parallel to the larger part is correct for the circuit if it is a cap. Is it a cap?

Secondary, is it a film cap or electrolytic? My plan on those resistors is to measure them to insure they are matched to 1% of each other and keep them if they are.

They are caps. I replaced them with silver mica units.
 
She Lives!!!

For the second time. Lol. Just finished the resistor / capacitor swap.

Pro Tip: When you plug her in to your system after spending a good half hour or more checking every voltage you can find a value for and she rings out good, make sure your input selector matches the input you are feeding. Otherwise the silence she will put out when you turn your source on will cause heartbreak.

The highs are so much better. The mids are still sexy. Bass is a bit better but could be improved on. I'll have more thoughts later.

Question to the experts: My B+ voltage isn't stable. If I set it to 435 it will drift up and down, the highest I measured was 440 and the lowest was 425. So to check the bias I had to adjust B+ constantly. Might be a cheep variac, might be fluxuating house current, or is it something else? Does it take time to stabilize as the amp warms up?

Second question. I want to do another. Any one have a spare Mc225, mc240, mc275, mc30 or any others hanging around? LOL. GReat way to pass the time.
 
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