do the test without ANY speakers, listen for the click of the protect relay, do you have headphones?
The idea is to not load the outputs, to see if it's DC or over current that is triggering it.
The FACT that the sound comes back FASTER than the time out makes me think the protect driver circuit is at fault, probably the relay driver transistor.
If you don't do the non-speaker test, we have to start electronic troubleshooting, eliminating protection input connections until the problem stops - which then shows what's up. The alternative is sitting there staring at a DMM for hours...
best advice - rebuild the protect circuit (it's very easy to get to). new electrolytic caps also q6 and q7 and maybe q1, q2, q3, q4 (all can be ksc1845 or equivalent). the specs for q6 and q7 are elsewhere now, and i need to get some sleep, the sun came up before I got to bed last night / this morning / NOW....
edit - FIRST, set the DC offset as close to zero as you can. If it is jumping around on one channel - that's your smoking gun...
The idea is to not load the outputs, to see if it's DC or over current that is triggering it.
The FACT that the sound comes back FASTER than the time out makes me think the protect driver circuit is at fault, probably the relay driver transistor.
If you don't do the non-speaker test, we have to start electronic troubleshooting, eliminating protection input connections until the problem stops - which then shows what's up. The alternative is sitting there staring at a DMM for hours...
best advice - rebuild the protect circuit (it's very easy to get to). new electrolytic caps also q6 and q7 and maybe q1, q2, q3, q4 (all can be ksc1845 or equivalent). the specs for q6 and q7 are elsewhere now, and i need to get some sleep, the sun came up before I got to bed last night / this morning / NOW....
edit - FIRST, set the DC offset as close to zero as you can. If it is jumping around on one channel - that's your smoking gun...