Pioneer SX-1250 Recap

CohibaJoe

CohibaJoe

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Yep...Another thread on a SX-1250 recap.

Was going to save this for Winter...so I am going to order the Caps and Transistors now.
I will be using the Recap List from Mark and mattsd threads

1st off...Going to replace the (4) 22,000uf 80v caps.

Checking on Fleebay I see 2 Brands.

Adcom 22000uf 100v Item# 190711459931
Hitachi 22000uf 100v Item# 150819419238

Was leaning on Hitachi....What do you think?
 
size of caps makes a difference.

hitachi 80x50mm 1.97 x 3.15 105 deg c 30 bucks each
adcom 2.5 x 4.625 85 deg c 2 for 78 bucks

what is original's dimensions?
 
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markthefixer said:
size of caps makes a difference.

hitachi 80x50mm 1.97 x 3.15 105 deg c 30 bucks each
adcom 2.5 x 4.625 85 deg c 2 for 78 bucks

what is original's dimensions?
Click to expand...
About the same size of the Adcom.

I also see from other threads the Adcom is used. Looks like it's the Adcom's.

?..How do the size of the Cap matter? Since many caps from the 70's to Now are smaller?
 
I saw some Hitachi, 22000uf at 80v and their about 3/4 the size of the original caps of the sx1050 (22000 at 80v)


CohibaJoe said:
About the same size of the Adcom.

I also see from other threads the Adcom is used. Looks like it's the Adcom's.

?..How do the size of the Cap matter? Since many caps from the 70's to Now are smaller?
Click to expand...
 
CohibaJoe said:
About the same size of the Adcom.

I also see from other threads the Adcom is used. Looks like it's the Adcom's.

?..How do the size of the Cap matter? Since many caps from the 70's to Now are smaller?
Click to expand...

The brackets that hold the caps makes the Adcom fit exactly, the smaller caps are still good but the brackets may not tighten all the way down on the dia.


JM
 
the caps will not be physically secured in place and can flop around and short. thus we get bigger uf or more volts to get the size closer. you will also find that connection methods are also important.
 
markthefixer said:
the caps will not be physically secured in place and can flop around and short. thus we get bigger uf or more volts to get the size closer. you will also find that connection methods are also important.
Click to expand...
Thanks Mark...I just ordered the Adcom's
 
Good that you bought the Adcom's, the Hitachis Chinese made caps and not true Hitachi products.
 
How about caps on Digikey - How do they compare with Adcom?

HI Guys, I am going to replace these caps in a 1250 as well and noticed that Digi-Key has the following three that would fit. How do they compare? They look like they have good specs:
- EPCOS B41456B9229M
- UCC E36D101LPN223TDB7M
- Vishay BC Components
- MAL210119223E3
Thanks,
Jerry
 
HI Guys,
I am going to replace these caps in a 1250 as well and noticed that Digi-Key has the following three that would fit. How do they compare? They look like they have good specs:
- EPCOS B41456B9229M
- UCC E36D101LPN223TDB7M
- Vishay BC Components MAL210119223E3
Thanks,
Jerry
 
rolleiman said:
HI Guys,
I am going to replace these caps in a 1250 as well and noticed that Digi-Key has the following three that would fit. How do they compare? They look like they have good specs:
- EPCOS B41456B9229M
- UCC E36D101LPN223TDB7M
- Vishay BC Components MAL210119223E3
Thanks,
Jerry
Click to expand...

The SPEC 4 has the same capacitors.
I changed my leaky Nichicons with ADCOM.
I think , if i would (and i will) do it again , I'd choose EPCOS.
 
Stay away from those Hitachi caps...there's thousands of counterfeit Chinese caps with the Hitachi brand on them going around (and has been for the last few years).
 
Don't go crazy, do small sections at a time and test after each procedure, like
1) Big ecaps first, test
2) awr-107 ecaps, test
3) awr-106 ecaps, test
Buying ecaps off ebay is risky business, to say the least = foolish!! You do not buy bjts off ebay, why would you think ecaps are any different? Stick with well known distributors, Mouser, Dig-key, Newark/element14 etc and a few others
 
Last edited:
rcs16 said:
Don't go crazy, do small sections at a time and test after each procedure, like
1) Big ecaps first, test
2) awr-107 ecaps, test
3) awr-106 ecaps, test
Buying ecaps off ebay is risky business, to say the least = foolish!! You do not buy bjts off ebay, why would you think ecaps are any different? Stick with well known distributors, Newark, Dig-key, Newark/element14 etc and a few others
Click to expand...
Got the Adcom's last year from Newark...

Each Board at a time with Power Up.

My 1st Recap SX-1050.....Did All the Boards...Everything Worked...But since then...I have learned to Test each completed board.
 
Good luck with your project!! Oop's I should have said Mouser instead of Newark twice.

Cheers
Rick
 
I have started the Recap.....

1. Caps

Since the SX-1250 is SO EASY to work on....Caps are 1st.

Part List from "mattsd" thread:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=420950

For Resistors:
Ohmite "Little Demons" 5%: Power Amp, Protection Circuit, Stabilizer Assembly
Precision Resistive Products 1%: Tuner Assembly, EQ Amp, Flat Amp, Control Amp, Filter Amp, Function Switch Assembly
 
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A few Pictures.

Pic 1: Main Caps are shot
Pic 2: Plastic around caps have shrunk
Pic 3: Cold Solder joints on Power Amp board..all board are going to have solder reflow/added upon inspection
Pic 4: Well...you can see WHY I Recap everything I buy
Pic 5: R23 was bent and resting on the 2 Resistors and burnt the epoxy, the other resistor have a Chip on epoxy.
 

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Yes...On a SLOW boat with this recap...few other pieces had cut in-line.

1. Caps

I was going to replace Mylar's with WIMA Films. After going back and forth....We leave this be.
 

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