Identify these speakers please!

Ramseybella

AK Member
I picked these up around 10 or more years ago bookshelf heavy and ported in the back, Port is made of solid plastic curves down to the bottom inside.
The screws holding the driver and rear plug cover are wrong, look like drywall screws.

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Could be. Maybe someone assembled from parts?

I had to pull it apart Focal 7n402dbe driver was glued into place, yes it is some bit of a freak show inside all the way down to the PVC drain pipe port!!:scratch2:

I am thinking the tweeters are Focal T-120's, wonder if the cross overs are Focal as well.
I have not hooked these up in like two years I remember them being a little dry sounding but useable.

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The wires and electrical tape are somebody's rework, along with the drain pipe.
From what I am seeing on the web these tweeters fetch some good coin and have been used in other brand high end speakers as well.
The tweeter's foam dome ring's are in good condition the foam around the outside (Glued on) of it is toast so is all that foam inside the cabinets (Mess).
The drivers seem to be duel voice coil type if I am not mistaken.
I have to clean out the insides to see how the cross over is mounted in, hope not Frigging glue!!:nono:
 
Interesting specimens. Nice oak cabinets with solid wood rounded corners and a rather complex crossover for simple two ways - - - I see at least four coils, four caps (including bypass?) and one resistor. I think you are correct about drywall screws on the woofer, and that particle board is looking a bit ragged from that glue. Many of those black/red caps used in crossovers are notorious for having drifted far off spec - - - sometimes labeled Callins or Temple - - - and would most likely benefit from replacement.

Based on the stickers, looks like a French or Canadian product.
 
Well after some delicate prying and trimming:bash: more (Glue) I got the Tweeter out without cracking the plastic base, it is a Focal T-120.:thmbsp:
This is only one speaker going at the next one soon.

The particle board has taken a beating doing this, mainly the edges nothing a little Bondo and spray paint can't fix..

And yes the CR board is (Glued) down it has two resistors four caps I can read the value of three caps the large cap the uf value is rubbed off, hopefully the other speaker is readable.

The CR board is not coming out of these so it will be fine surgery with hemostats involved..

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Speaker #2 came unglued much more forgiving.
What i found inside was something I always thought was a gulf ball, but wound up being this..
The things kids drop into a port..:D

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Caps are as follows 4.7uf 150v 5% with a .1uf 425v stacked, and from the photo it looks like 12uf 150v 5% with a.1uf 425v stacked.
Resistors look like 1ohm 10%, 10w.
Black and red's are SCR and the white caps are Wonder Caps.

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Nice high quality parts, but someone is missing an eyeball. What did they sound like before takin a part? Expensive drivers/top shelf, enjoy them.....
 
Nice high quality parts, but someone is missing an eyeball. What did they sound like before takin a part? Expensive drivers/top shelf, enjoy them.....

Average sounding not bad I am heading out to get screws and disembowel an old pillow and stuff the inside a little and fire them back up and give them a listen again and decide to re cap or part out for cash for other re cap projects.
 
OK!
Checked out the Crossover before I put stuffing into the cab's one of the Resisters where not soldered just twisted together, I corrected this.
Stuffed them sealed the drivers and tweeters to the baffles using plumbers putty so it will be easy to remove when I patch all that chipping around the speaker holes and repaint.
Results are a whole lot better than I expected, i don't think these need re capping.
Bottom is smooth top is a bit chirpy but I have them sitting on top of the Polk Monitor 10's that already are a bit bright so now I can tune them evenly to my room, and they sound good still a bit in your face but lets see as the weeks pass.
Could be my system and setup I am using now but they sound much better than two years ago.
For now the re caped Model sixes are back in the hanger with the 17's that i want to cap along with the Mini Monitors another cap job.
Something has to go soon for these projects.
 
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The N stands for Neoflex on the Focal 7" driver.
It is their proprietary name for Bextrene which has a plastiflex coating to dampen the cone resonances.
 
I am listening to some old Anita Baker, sounds smooth that tweeter has some bite on her highs but I have been dialing them in for most part of the day, sound smooth now.
Thanks for the info guys..
 
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