Kenwood Basic C1 Preamplifier Restoration/Upgrade

...I am guessing that the ones listed as "NP-ELEC" are electrolytic non polarized ??

Yes, these are non-polar or bi-polar electrolytic capacitors. I suggest that you replace with stacked film types if the original is <4.7µF or Nichicon ES bipolar capacitors if >4.7µF.

I did some research and the Op amp replacement that some recommend is the NE5532. I do not know if that is what I should use or not. I see four listed in the service manual so I guess I need all four unless some of these are not to be replaced?? It also puzzles me that two are the same part numbers and the other two are completely different. Maybe I just replace the two NJM4560D-N Op amps and leave the rest ?? The manual shows three different IC/Op amps.
1: (Ref. IC1) NJM4560D-N
2: ( Ref. IC2) NJM2041D-N
3: ( Ref. IC3) M521BL
4: ( Ref. IC1. No. ,2) .NJM4560D-N.
I wonder if these are the same on both the C1 and the C2?

The C2 topology is actually very similar to that of the C1, so much of what is described in this thread is applicable to the C2. I suggest that you use NJM2068DD to replace the NJM4560 and NJM2041 op amps in the line stage. For the phono stage, you can use a NJM4580DD to replace the NJM4560. Note that the M521BL is the headphone amplifier. Here is a link to an objective comparison of some NJM op amps: http://nwavguy.blogspot.ca/2011/08/op-amp-measurements.html; I found it useful in deciding on the NJM2068.
 
Hi I have a basic m1d. And it's a little slow to turn on also I noticed switching speakers is a good Snap going threw b speakers I haven't done anything to it yet ecept blow it out, now if its the relay or selector on circuit board for the speaker selection any help would be great thank you very much I see that you have one that you have done quite a bit of work to it .maby you can help . Am i going to blow up my speakers ? Am i okay ? should i just try cleaning the selector on circuit board the switch feels very stiff also . Thanks very much if you can help me
879d46cc55259b6c9d1ad47e6f095e01.jpg
 
Hi I have a basic m1d. And it's a little slow to turn on also I noticed switching speakers is a good Snap going threw b speakers I haven't done anything to it yet ecept blow it out, now if its the relay or selector on circuit board for the speaker selection any help would be great thank you very much I see that you have one that you have done quite a bit of work to it .maby you can help . Am i going to blow up my speakers ? Am i okay ? should i just try cleaning the selector on circuit board the switch feels very stiff also . Thanks very much if you can help me
879d46cc55259b6c9d1ad47e6f095e01.jpg

It takes about six seconds or so for my Basic M2 to turn on and that is with it fully warmed up. I do not hear a snapping sound when changing from A to B ( B speakers are on the outside of the house) but I always turn the preamp down to change speaker selection. You may try starting a new thread in Kenwood/Trio to see if anyone else can help. I am unsure anyone will respond in this thread because it is a Kenwood Premplifier thread. Oh yea and if it were mine I would most definitely try a small amount of Deoxit on the speaker selector switch...
 
Yes, these are non-polar or bi-polar electrolytic capacitors. I suggest that you replace with stacked film types if the original is <4.7µF or Nichicon ES bipolar capacitors if >4.7µF.



The C2 topology is actually very similar to that of the C1, so much of what is described in this thread is applicable to the C2. I suggest that you use NJM2068DD to replace the NJM4560 and NJM2041 op amps in the line stage. For the phono stage, you can use a NJM4580DD to replace the NJM4560. Note that the M521BL is the headphone amplifier. Here is a link to an objective comparison of some NJM op amps: http://nwavguy.blogspot.ca/2011/08/op-amp-measurements.html; I found it useful in deciding on the NJM2068.
Yes, I see now that these that are marked NP are Bi polar/ Non polarized. I did not see this marked on the C2 parts list however it is clearly stated on the C1 parts list. Thank you. I do not see any 4.7uF Caps. in the C2 Parts list I downloaded from HiFi Engine (Thanks HiFi!) so i really do not know what to do or what you mean by " I suggest that you replace with stacked film types if the original is <4.7µF or Nichicon ES bipolar capacitors if >4.7µF."

As far as OpAmps I see here on the parts list for the C2 they are the same as the C1 so if I understand correctly I should replace both the NJM2041 and the NJM4560 with the NJM2068DD and I need two of these as well as the sockets right ??
 
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...I do not see any 4.7uF Caps. in the C2 Parts list I downloaded from HiFi Engine (Thanks HiFi!) so i really do not know what to do or what you mean by " I suggest that you replace with stacked film types if the original is <4.7µF or Nichicon ES bipolar capacitors if >4.7µF."...

I meant that for bipolar capacitors that are 4.7µF or smaller, you can use Panasonic or WIMA polyester stacked film capacitors e.g., http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF7l45uRd9dVhol4/5VKcPqw=

As far as OpAmps I see here on the parts list for the C2 they are the same as the C1 so if I understand correctly I should replace both the NJM2041 and the NJM4560 with the NJM2068DD and I need two of these as well as the sockets right ??

That is correct.
 
It takes about six seconds or so for my Basic M2 to turn on and that is with it fully warmed up. I do not hear a snapping sound when changing from A to B ( B speakers are on the outside of the house) but I always turn the preamp down to change speaker selection. You may try starting a new thread in Kenwood/Trio to see if anyone else can help. I am unsure anyone will respond in this thread because it is a Kenwood Premplifier thread. Oh yea and if it were mine I would most definitely try a small amount of Deoxit on the speaker selector switch...
Thank you, I can't that navigate through this too well I'm getting better thank you for your help
 
Well look what arrived here the other day. Working fine and mint condition - I wonder if I can make them better?

kenwoodbasic_zpsyr5lqigw.jpg
 
Hi guys, new here. My original C1 preamp has started having all sorts of problems. Several of the traces on the bottom of the larger circuit board had sections missing for whatever reason, thinking a power surge possibly. Bits of the traces were laying on the frame so something happened. I soldered in jumpers over the bad sections (4 total) and works well again. Now I am going to do this mod, and the directions are very good, but I have one concern. Reading the steps and what components need changed out totals 50 components. The photo of removed components in the article shows 51 total. Has anyone completed this mod and know for sure. I'm thinking in the text there is a component that is replaced but not called out. Just curious. Thanks Dave
 
There is a capacitor 100µF 25V, that is mounted under the board, in this particular, of which a picture wasn't taken of (and iirc, it isn't in the schematic). This capacitor may or may not be in your unit and is just a change made during production.
 
Perfect. Thanks for the quick reply. I do have the cap under the board. I'll be placing my mouser order tomorrow. Really looking forward to the upgraded sound.
 
Perfect. Thanks for the quick reply. I do have the cap under the board. I'll be placing my mouser order tomorrow. Really looking forward to the upgraded sound.
Glad to hear that someone is actually going to do this besides Leestereo because I was most definitely heading this direction and even made up my parts list however since the C2 and C1 was already out of rotation, and I had an old Pioneer SPEC-1 to use (that actually seems to sound and work great) I stopped short of ordering. I am so bad about never finishing a project. I am going to do this one day for sure as I want my Kenwood set up all back together again. Please Please Please post images and impressions of your new sound with part order and numbers / and where you sourced them...If you have time anyway..
 
Oh, and BTW. The Kenwood C1 Pre and M2 Amp as well as a set of Bose 601 speakers are what got me into this vintage stereo hobby. That was 11 years ago and now I have so much equipment I no longer have a place to store it all ! I loved the sound however the C1 is so old now it really needs attention as it no longer sounds anywhere near as good as it did. stands to reason I suppose. The M2 I have now was totally rebuilt by Dan at DRM. So sad I can no longer contact him at all. I really wish I knew what happened to Mr. Mattis he was such a honest and helpful fellow.
 
I just completed the mod. All I can say initially is Wow, what a substantial difference in the sound. I listened to some FM and 2 albums (Heartsfield and the Beatles blue album). Vert crisp, clean highs and smooth bass. I have the complete Kenwood Basic system I purchased new several decades ago; C1 pre-amp, M2 amp, GE-1100 equalizer, T1 tuner, X1 cassette, KD-72B turntable and an odd ball Pioneer RT-707 reel, with Bose 901's. My only issue I had was I ordered the wrong caps for the Flat amp C25 and C26 so I reused the original caps. I checked and double checked the list before I placed the order with Mouser and still missed them; right size wrong type (should be Nichion Muse). I don't know if the originals have that much effect on the overall sound. I will order the correct ones with my next order and replace them. One other notable issue are the 1uF Panasonic stacked polyester film capacitors are no longer available. Neither Mouser or DigiKey carries them. They went out of production in 2015. I was able to find some Nissie ones on eBay but had to buy a lot of 25. Parts on Mouser were $36.78 (I order a second set of different opamps to try also) and the eBay order was $10.99. Not a bad investment for so much better sound and cheaper than overpaying for a C2 pre-amp on eBay.

The instructions included up in thread are very good and provide all the detail needed to complete the mod. The only missing component in the directions was the cap on the bottom of the large board but that was it. What made it a bit easier before I started was lay out 4 sheets of paper and labeled them power supply, tone amp, flat amp and phono. Place all the parts outlined in the directions on the appropriate paper and then start removing the components for each section. Insert the new parts, solder and inspect. Move to the next section. Keep in mind with the caps the long lead is the '+' side and the zeners have to be installed in the correct orientation and the boards are marked as such. Other than that, parts can be install in either direction.

You'll need a good solder sucker, soldering iron, solder, and needle nose pliers. A good LED flashlight, and magnifying glass to check your soldering is a must. I think there is about 120 or so points to solder so it takes quite a bit of time. Take breaks and pay attention to details. DO NOT rush. The last thing you want is sparks flying when you plug in and hit the power switch. If you lack good soldering skills I would not suggest diving into this mod until you practice on something else. You want to make quick joints so you don't overheat the components especially the tiny caps, resistors and zeners.

Let me know if you need any info. I'll help as much as I can. It was a fun little project. I'm glad I did it. Even my wife can tell the difference and that made it worth while;)

I also want to thank Leestereo for all the upfront work to make this mod a reality. Thank you.

Dave
 
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What a great thread! I have been considering overhauling my C2. I think this just may be the motivation to get going on it. Happy to hear it turned out so well.
 
Oh, and BTW. The Kenwood C1 Pre and M2 Amp as well as a set of Bose 601 speakers are what got me into this vintage stereo hobby. That was 11 years ago and now I have so much equipment I no longer have a place to store it all ! I loved the sound however the C1 is so old now it really needs attention as it no longer sounds anywhere near as good as it did. stands to reason I suppose. The M2 I have now was totally rebuilt by Dan at DRM. So sad I can no longer contact him at all. I really wish I knew what happened to Mr. Mattis he was such a honest and helpful fellow.

Dan called me after seeing this post. It seems he moved to North Carolina. We had a good long talk. It seems as if he is doing good and has opened DRM back up so, if you want to get in touch with him now is the time !

I just completed the mod. All I can say initially is Wow, what a substantial difference in the sound. I listened to some FM and 2 albums (Heartsfield and the Beatles blue album). Vert crisp, clean highs and smooth bass. I have the complete Kenwood Basic system I purchased new several decades ago; C1 pre-amp, M2 amp, GE-1100 equalizer, T1 tuner, X1 cassette, KD-72B turntable and an odd ball Pioneer RT-707 reel, with Bose 901's. My only issue I had was I ordered the wrong caps for the Flat amp C25 and C26 so I reused the original caps. I checked and double checked the list before I placed the order with Mouser and still missed them; right size wrong type (should be Nichion Muse). I don't know if the originals have that much effect on the overall sound. I will order the correct ones with my next order and replace them. One other notable issue are the 1uF Panasonic stacked polyester film capacitors are no longer available. Neither Mouser or DigiKey carries them. They went out of production in 2015. I was able to find some Nissie ones on eBay but had to buy a lot of 25. Parts on Mouser were $36.78 (I order a second set of different opamps to try also) and the eBay order was $10.99. Not a bad investment for so much better sound and cheaper than overpaying for a C2 pre-amp on eBay.

The instructions included up in thread are very good and provide all the detail needed to complete the mod. The only missing component in the directions was the cap on the bottom of the large board but that was it. What made it a bit easier before I started was lay out 4 sheets of paper and labeled them power supply, tone amp, flat amp and phono. Place all the parts outlined in the directions on the appropriate paper and then start removing the components for each section. Insert the new parts, solder and inspect. Move to the next section. Keep in mind with the caps the long lead is the '+' side and the zeners have to be installed in the correct orientation and the boards are marked as such. Other than that, parts can be install in either direction.

You'll need a good solder sucker, soldering iron, solder, and needle nose pliers. A good LED flashlight, and magnifying glass to check your soldering is a must. I think there is about 120 or so points to solder so it takes quite a bit of time. Take breaks and pay attention to details. DO NOT rush. The last thing you want is sparks flying when you plug in and hit the power switch. If you lack good soldering skills I would not suggest diving into this mod until you practice on something else. You want to make quick joints so you don't overheat the components especially the tiny caps, resistors and zeners.

Let me know if you need any info. I'll help as much as I can. It was a fun little project. I'm glad I did it. Even my wife can tell the difference and that made it worth while;)

I also want to thank Leestereo for all the upfront work to make this mod a reality. Thank you.

Dave

Dave, Any way I could get a BOM from your re build posted ? Please ?? I would also like to have a Private Message about the capacitors you had to buy in quantity as I will need at least six just like them. I am going to do this there is no doubt. I want my C1 and original M2 back in working order and a must have for me is that C2. One great little pre it is.
 
What a great thread! I have been considering overhauling my C2. I think this just may be the motivation to get going on it. Happy to hear it turned out so well.
We can do this ! It would be my first complete "shotgun" rebuild. And BTW, I agree wholeheartedly with the thanks going out to Leestereo as well as Dave99!
 
I'll add an update here. I have been listening to the system into late last night and all day so far today. This is really amazing sound. It just seems to get better the longer I listen. The highs are crisp but not over driven, very clean. The bass is very smooth. It's hard to explain but it sounds excellent. Much much better than it did.

vsat88 I will get my invoice into a spread sheet and upload it. With the game today give me a couple of days and I'll get it.
 
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