Need McIntosh Advice, Please

High_Noon

Active Member
This is my first post here on audiokarma. I am about 9 months away from purchasing a new system. As somewhat of a high fidelity novice, I have been researching A/V equipment for quite some time – mainly avoiding McIntosh since I believed it was out of my price range; however, after looking at some of the more modern A/V receivers and receiving advice on other forums, I always felt like something was missing. This is not to say that the advice I received previously was bad, quite the contrary, but there was something about spending a lot of money on mid-fi (such as a Denon or Marantz A/V) that left me cold - I was loathe to spend money on features I would not need, just to have a new system. I think what was missing was that I wanted a system with outstanding audio performance that I can be proud of and that will last a lifetime – I appreciate quality, longevity and craftsmanship – something lacking in Chinese-made equipment (in my opinion). I also looked at NAD A/V receivers and that is when I realized I could probably get a nice, older, McIntosh system for the price of NAD T777/T778 alone! This was when I decided to take another look at McIntosh.

My intended usage is an approximate 60/40 split between 2 channel audio and home theater. Currently, I do not stream anything, nor do I utilize a wireless connection between my current A/V system and the Internet. I may do so in the future, but this is very, very low on my priority list right now – I don’t really have the time or the patience for the new-fangled stuff – it took me 3 years of thinking about Pandora (on and off) to finally learn how to use it, and now that I have, I rarely use it – even in the car – SiriusXM is so much easier. That said, I am looking for a simple to use A/V McIntosh system that will enable me to listen to 2-channel, full range audio and 5 or 5.1 home theater. HDMI would be nice, but I can always get a DVDO VP50 for any processing, if necessary.

So here’s what I have come up with so far: My first priority will be to get a nice MX119 and pair it w/ an MC2205 or a MC7270 depending on availability/condition when I am ready to purchase. Speakers will be likely be PSB T2, and the source unit will likely be an Oppo BDP103. Later, when I expand the system to 5.1, I will purchase additional amplification and additional PSB speakers.
Questions:
1) What is your opinion of the MX119/MC2205 or MC7270 combo? Any additional options I should consider like the MX120, 134, 135?
2) What do you think about pairing the PSB Imagine T2s w/ this McIntosh equipment combo? I have looked at Focal, RBS, KEF and Revel, but I sure do like the PSBs.
2) What reasonable amplification (100w or less) should I consider for the center channel, surrounds and sub and how are these connected to the MX119?
3) What is a good source for me to learn about the cables I will need and how to hook all this up properly?
4) Anything I have overlooked?

In advance, I thank you for taking the time to read this posting and for offering your advice.

- High_Noon
 
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Welcome to AK!

That's about all the help I can give. I'm strictly a 2 channel guy myself. Someone will chime in shortly I'm sure.
 
I can tell you that either the MC2205 or MC7270 will be an extremely fine two-channel amp. The MC7270 is a couple generations later and hence has a lower noise floor and lower distortion. It's also a little more powerful. But under most conditions, and especially if the MC2205 has been updated, either amp will be plenty for driving those T2s with their 90dB sensitivity rating. Test the PSBs with both the 8-ohm and 4-ohm taps on the amp, since the speakers' nominal rating is right in between.

You're wise to start with a superb two-channel system. You may find that more channels feel unnecessary, even for film soundtracks. Good luck!
 
Three identical fullest range speakers you can fit across the front is the place to start.

Trying to blend in the subwoofer needing center speaker with a theater sub and full range two channel towers is always a complicated mess.

A properly designed theater system should be an exceptional audio system because the quality movie makers demand it for the proper presentation of their art form.

I would argue that most movie sound directors put much more effort and expense to do audio correctly than most "pop/rock" band recordings.
 
I have an MX 119 in my main system. For two channel, I love it. I know the technology is a bit outdated as far as 5.1 goes, but my Oppo 103 does the trick for movies. For regular TV watching I think it sounds great.
 
If I was going to use an MX119 I would try to find a MC300 or newer instead of a MC2205 or MC7270 since the older amps don't have 12v power triggers and the MX119 doesn't have switched outlets. As for center and surrounds I would look for an MC7106 or MC126 and bridge it to a 3 channel amp.
 
If I was going to use an MX119 I would try to find a MC300 or newer instead of a MC2205 or MC7270 since the older amps don't have 12v power triggers and the MX119 doesn't have switched outlets. As for center and surrounds I would look for an MC7106 or MC126 and bridge it to a 3 channel amp.


I run a 7108 bridged for 5.1 and a second 7108 for a bunch of satellites around the house. Plenty of power for me.
 
I really enjoyed my MX 119 and have a 120 and the only difference is switching HDMI connections that are now obsolete. So I drive my plasma display directly with HDMI. They both sound great in the Pure Audio, analog, mode. And I love the XLR input from my 861 player. Older DVD's played on the 861 sound great through either unit. For Bu-ray, I let the player do the decoding for audio and drive the direct input on the MX120.

I would look toward the more modern amps also. Theres a big difference between the 2000 series, 7000 series amps and the Quad balanced amps starting with the 352, 402 etc. If you want tighter bass that the 2205 or 7300 can give, you can use the Direct coupled 7200 or some of the later amps with out autoformers. The MC 300, 500 and MC 501's are known for high damping factor with autoformers and high current reserves the 2205 and 7300 don't have. Some speakers aren't effected so much, others are. You are just going to have to experiment.
 
You can go cheap and buy a MAC-3 as a processor. I got a 300 dolar ebay unit. You can pick whatever Macintosh pre and two channel Mcintosh amp you want. You just need a bluray player with optical or coax digital out and MAC-3 will handle 5.1 digital to analog conversion. That way you can spend more on the pre and not worry about the movie processor depreciation. Most blurays have DVD/cd and SACD capability and have WIFI bult in for Pandora or other Hulu or NetFlix and be had new for about 100 bucks. I split digital out to my own newer DAC. The MAC-3 will also take digital coax or tosilnk from a cable box and do switching between all sorts of digital inputs. MAC-3 also takes analogs. It has phenomenal SNR and ultra low distortion specs. Yes it is a true MCIntosh bargain sold for like 2K or 2.5k new. Mine came with a remote used in a MX121 shipping box.
 
Thanks everyone for your comments.

If I was going to use an MX119 I would try to find a MC300 or newer instead of a MC2205 or MC7270 since the older amps don't have 12v power triggers and the MX119 doesn't have switched outlets. As for center and surrounds I would look for an MC7106 or MC126 and bridge it to a 3 channel amp.

Can you please explain this in a bit more detail? I don't understand what 12v power triggers and switched outlets are and why this is important. Bridging a MC126 sounds like a good idea when I'm ready to upgrade to 5.1.
 
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I believe the 12v trigger is a cable that connects different Mac components. So that when you turn on say the pre it will also turn on the amp. I have a Mac amp and pre but I don't have this cable.

Switched outlets are the electrical outlets on the back of the component that allows you to plug in one component to power another so you don't use up your outlets at the wall or power strip, or to turn on both components at once by turning on just one.
 
It is my understanding that UL now forbids the use of accessory AC sockets on the back of audio equipment so you will only see them on older, discontinued models. You now have to plug all of the components into a hot strip and daisy chain the trigger cords between the units. I guess if you throw in a classic item, you will have to turn it on manually.
 
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I believe the 12v trigger is a cable that connects different Mac components. So that when you turn on say the pre it will also turn on the amp. I have a Mac amp and pre but I don't have this cable.

Switched outlets are the electrical outlets on the back of the component that allows you to plug in one component to power another so you don't use up your outlets at the wall or power strip, or to turn on both components at once by turning on just one.

Simple enough. Thanks.
 
Hmmmm . . .

Well, you have an Oppo BDP-103 (as do I). These are excellent Bluray players with on-board 7.1 decoding. You can actually go into the menu and set the 7.1 outputs as variable which allows you to adjust the volume from the remote control so the BDP-103 becomes a respectable source/preamp when used in this fashion. Since you've got that already, why spend money on an older MX unit that does not have the decoder power that you already have? Yes, I see the allure of the $1,000 price points on these older MX units and as others have said here they can sound quite good - MX130, MX132, MX134, MX119, and MX120 all can be had a mere fraction of their original selling price. You can do better.

Why not find a nice C35, C37, C42, or even a C46? All are remote controlled, all have digital readouts for volume, and any of them would pair well with an MC7270 (no argument on that one - IMHO, the best value in a SS McIntosh amp period). This sets you up with an excellent McIntosh two channel audio system that will work excellent with your Oppo. Here's how:

Connect the Oppo's FL and FR outputs to the CXX CD (or AUX) inputs
Set the volume on the CXX preamp at say 85% (by observing the number on the volume readout)
Connect additional amplification channels to the Oppo as your budget allows to add 5.1 or even 7.1 functionality (MC7106 / MC126 are good choices)
Set speaker distance and levels (HT calibration) via the menu in the Oppo
Use the Oppo's remote to manage volume of the system when playing back CD, DVD, and Blurays

Should you decide to connect a Turntable, Tape Deck, Reel to Reel, etc. to the CXX preamp, you can simply turn off the Oppo, reduce the volume of the preamp, change the source, and use the remote control of the preamp to control volume. The digital readout for the volume control makes this simple to do and then revert back to the volume setting you've set as correct for when using the Oppo as the preamp.

Now, should you not require 7.1 for your HT set up and 5.1 would be just fine, then I suggest that you look at the oft overlooked gem for such - the C45. The C45 is a very nice sounding stereo preamplifier which also has onboard 5.1 inputs (2 sets!) and outputs. You would connect the 5.1 outputs from the Oppo to the C45's 5.1 inputs. When playing back DVDs or Blurays from the Oppo, the 5.1 decoded mix is simply passed through the C45 to the respective amplifier channels. You'll set the analog outputs from the Oppo as fixed and use the remote for the C45 to control volume for all sources. The REALLY cool thing about the C45 is that you can also us the subwoofer output for good old two channel listening if you choose. The C45 (like the MX119) can also accept the optional TM-1 tuner module making it a very versatile piece. Finally, the C45 has balanced inputs (one pair) and outputs (all 5.1 channels) which would allow you the flexibility of choosing a McIntosh power amp with balanced inputs (the MC7200 as twiiii recommends and the MC300 as Logan_Nolag recommends - both very nice).

Whichever road you choose to travel, do keep all of us Mc nuts here at AK informed.
 
Another satisfied (former) customer of combining an MX-119 and a Blu-Ray player with 5.1 analog outs for the high-rez surround formats like DTS HD.
 
damacman, thanks for the thoughtful reply. I don't know much about the C series, but I will definitely look into it. I'm not really sure why I didn't consider the C series before - possibly b/c I read such great things about the MX119 and the newer C series units I saw were considerably more expensive - I'd like my budget to be in the under 3K range for the amplifier + the pre/processor. If I understand you correctly, the C series has decoding capability built-in, but probably not the "latest and greatest" decoding technology. My thought was to keep the audio separate and utilize a DVDO VP50 for the latest decoding technology (if needed). Is this advantageous or would it be a better choice to get a C series with the decoding built-in and forgo the VP50? Other than the decoding capability, what advantage will a C series have over an MX? (i.e. MX119).
 
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If you only use CDs, DVDs and other digital sources, you don't need a pre amp. The Oppo has a volume control, several digital inputs and controls for each of the 7.1 channels.
 
If you only use CDs, DVDs and other digital sources, you don't need a pre amp. The Oppo has a volume control, several digital inputs and controls for each of the 7.1 channels.

I have heard of this, but I think I'd like the option of adding a tuner or a Cambridge NP30 network music player? and possibly a turntable at a later date. Also, would I be able to hook up satellite TV service w/out a preamp?
 
"C" simply denotes preamplifier in the McIntosh part numbers. All of the units I spoke of are two channel stereo preamps with no onboard DACs of any kind. If your goal is to stay $3k or less, you could easily do that with a C35 / MC7270.
 
I heard a pair of prototype Paradigm Prestige 95F speakers, and they were stunningly good at reproducing the "life" of music, for being a non horn loaded unit.

If I were to pick a pair of new speakers in the $3-5k range, it would probably be these.
 
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