Help servicing a Sony TC366 RTR

Okay, I removed the upper reel and can see how easy it is to remove and replace the brake assy. Also, the reason that the brake was not released when P or FF was selected. It basically jammed in position and did not move away when the tape tensioner tried to "convince" it to do so. I lubricated the assy and it seems to have freed up.
Here is another question Doc, looking at the picture of your deck and looking at mine, they have obviously been looked after in different ways (see my picture). Is it worth the learning curve I am going to have to go through to 0make this a worthwhile project or should I just use this Sony for parts and look for a better prospect?
 
Sorry, I don't think my picture went through. I tried to "add a picture" but it asked for a URL? I tried to "add an attachment" but I couldn't see that it added it even though I think I did so I tried again.
 

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studiolabber said:
Sorry, I don't think my picture went through. I tried to "add a picture" but it asked for a URL? I tried to "add an attachment" but I couldn't see that it added it even though I think I did so I tried again.
Click to expand...

First, the photo I linked to was someone else's photo. Second, I wouldn't be concerned about those little corrosion spots. As long as the heads are not worn it should be fine. If it says "F&F" or "Ferrite Heads" on the cover, it should be fine.
Also, don't just re-lube. You have to clean the old gummy grease off with alcohol, then re-lube with oil or white lithium grease. If you leave the old grease, it will get gummed up again.
 
Good point about clean & then re-lube.
There is a small rubber belt that goes from the underside of the supply reel around a white plastic pulley just to it's left. This pulley is either fixed by design or seized solid (on a rusted shaft). Also, it looks like the tape counter is driven by a belt that is no longer there. My guess (looking at your enlarged picture) is that the belt also goes around the "fixed" white plastic pulley that should not be fixed as it should drive the counter.
Any tips on a possible belt supplier? would I need an exact size?
 
I hate to hijack this forum with my own problems, but hopefully you can help me answer this quick question. I bought a TC-366 a couple of months ago and should have heeded someone's warning about this one being a money pit. :D I got it working and then the motor run capacitor blew, with waxy gunk all over the protective cap. I plan on replacing it with a 1.5 uF 250 V capacitor, however I wanted to make sure I am wiring it correctly.

Capacitor.jpg

According to the schematic in the service manual I am going to connect the black leads to the positive end of the capacitor and the green and white to the negative end. This eliminates the frequency selector switch essentially, right? Let me know if this sounds correct.

Thanks in advance for your help!

PS: OP, congratulations on your move into the world of R2R, I know how much of a pain it can be to get this deck moving, but trust me its worth it! Hopefully I can help you if you get stuck!
 
studiolabber said:
Good point about clean & then re-lube.
There is a small rubber belt that goes from the underside of the supply reel around a white plastic pulley just to it's left. This pulley is either fixed by design or seized solid (on a rusted shaft). Also, it looks like the tape counter is driven by a belt that is no longer there. My guess (looking at your enlarged picture) is that the belt also goes around the "fixed" white plastic pulley that should not be fixed as it should drive the counter.
Any tips on a possible belt supplier? would I need an exact size?
Click to expand...

As far as a belt supplier for this unit I had success with this supplier http://www.ebay.com/usr/bigguytoo?_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2754 Despite the belts being kind of expensive the guy provides great customer service, and even shipped me a new belt when one was a bit on the loose side.
 
studiolabber said:
Good point about clean & then re-lube.
There is a small rubber belt that goes from the underside of the supply reel around a white plastic pulley just to it's left. This pulley is either fixed by design or seized solid (on a rusted shaft). Also, it looks like the tape counter is driven by a belt that is no longer there. My guess (looking at your enlarged picture) is that the belt also goes around the "fixed" white plastic pulley that should not be fixed as it should drive the counter.
Any tips on a possible belt supplier? would I need an exact size?
Click to expand...

The pulley should be free to turn. Remove it, clean the shaft and hole, lube with light machine oil like Tri-Flow or Dupont oil with Teflon.
 
thedman1992 said:
I hate to hijack this forum with my own problems, but hopefully you can help me answer this quick question. I bought a TC-366 a couple of months ago and should have heeded someone's warning about this one being a money pit. :D I got it working and then the motor run capacitor blew, with waxy gunk all over the protective cap. I plan on replacing it with a 1.5 uF 250 V capacitor, however I wanted to make sure I am wiring it correctly.

Capacitor.jpg

According to the schematic in the service manual I am going to connect the black leads to the positive end of the capacitor and the green and white to the negative end. This eliminates the frequency selector switch essentially, right? Let me know if this sounds correct.

Thanks in advance for your help!

PS: OP, congratulations on your move into the world of R2R, I know how much of a pain it can be to get this deck moving, but trust me its worth it! Hopefully I can help you if you get stuck!
Click to expand...

Just hook up the green and black wires. You should be using a non polarized capacitor for this.
 
Thanks Doc. The top of the shaft that the pulley sits on was so rusted that it was preventing the pulley from rotating. I guess there was a "C" clip there originally but it ended up just a large blob of rust. All has been cleaned off and I am using a couple of temp. drive rings to drive the tape counter until I can contact Mr. thedmans lead. Thanks also for your welcome to AudioKarma, looks like a good team to be part off when trying to figure out old HiFi
 
Progress on the repair of Sony TC366 RTR

After a lot of help from AK members I have got my machine to successfully play, FF & RW (& stop) as well as an excellent pre-recorded audio signal. I have also got a working tape counter, all from tips and suggestions I would never have thought of.
Now I have to work on the electrical side to reconnect the erase head, meters & various lights. Thanks a million guys
 

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For the erase head, if there are only 3 pins on it, measure the resistance between the pins. The ground pin will measure the same resistance to the other 2, and the other 2 pins will measure 2 X what the ground to each of the others does.
If there are 4 pins, then 2 should be connected together and that's the ground. I am not sure whether the top part of the head is the left or right channel.
 
Yes, there are 3 leads and four pins on the erase head although it looked like the two center pins had a "blob" of solder connecting them. I guess from your suggestion that these should be connected and someone made a sloppy job of it. I'm not sure why the erase head wires were disconnected, if I measure the resistance as you detail should the head be in working condition or is there any other measurement I can take (other than hooking it up and seeing if it will in fact "erase".
Another surprise when I started work on the deck is the photo enclosed. I don't know what this (capacitor) is or does but this wax leak is possibly the result of something I may have done. After my last reply and comments about getting the mechanicals fixed, the god of RTR's had the last laugh. None of the drives operate now. The deck was turned off last night but left plugged into my power bar. Again, help me Rhonda help help me Rhonda (or Doc or Thedman or ?)
 

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Knock Knock.
Who's there?
Uneeda.
Uneeda who?
You need a motor startup capacitor. It'll be in the manual, connected to the motor, search digikey for motor run cap or motor startup cap.
And if the erase head ohms out, it's probably ok.
 
Is this "overheating" something I did or something I can prevent in the future? Is this capacitor difficult to source or generally available for many different devices? once again Doc, thanks (I should put you on my Xmas list!)
 
dr*audio said:
For the erase head, if there are only 3 pins on it, measure the resistance between the pins. The ground pin will measure the same resistance to the other 2, and the other 2 pins will measure 2 X what the ground to each of the others does.
If there are 4 pins, then 2 should be connected together and that's the ground. I am not sure whether the top part of the head is the left or right channel.
Click to expand...

I checked your measurements for the erase head& it was close enough, 3.5, 3.5 & 6.2 using the two center pins (connected) as the ground. Regarding the capacitor, I checked a very confusing DigiKey site (for me anyway). I tried to enter my capacitor specs (1.5uF +10-5% 250WA,AC) but they asked a lot of other details and when I tried to answer, found it was either "not in stock" or I could have given the wrong answer. I entered "motor Run Cap" which gave me better options than "Motor Start up Cap" but I still couldn't identify the right cap
 

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Motor Run cap

Thanks Doc. It sure looks different than the capacitor currently installed although the specs look to be similar. I had an offer from the owner of a similar Sony RTR for needed spare parts. He has given up trying to repair it and is now concentrating his efforts on his TEAC RTR. I'll see if his Motor Run Cap is still installed and is similar to the one I need
 
This image is from Bob's site, it's kind of small but, these are the caps he sells.
 

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