Trouble diagnosing sub well pump issue

Maybe the well casing filter that lets water into the casing is clogged, after 15 years ours clogged and the pump behaved funny, I had it blown out with air, installed a new Grundfos and all is "well" now. I got a 2 wire pump from Wes's Water Well Supplies, he'll call you if you need help picking something out, good luck, Dave.

Wes's Water Well Supplies

from what i can gather domestic water should be anything from 10psi to 80psi
if the taps run correctly and there aren't any leaks you should be good .
maybe set somewhere in the middle to start with . 35psi or so .

Check or replace the check valve. Add one above ground if you cant pull the pump. If the check valve is sticking you will loose water all at once. When the check valve sticks the pump spins backwards after it shuts off as water is then pushed back down the well. Then on restart at the correct pressure the motor cant start because it's spinning backwards and just shuts down until you kill power and reapply.

Been there, done that.

good luck.

Pcbmann,
I think you're spot on. I've notice sometimes when I rest the pump that the entire house plumbing begins to fill. Also, when I remove the pump from the pitless adapter there's no water running back into the well.
I'm almost certain the pumps chk valve is or has failed (intermittently?). There's no inline chk valve so I'm going to add one tomorrow.
The pump is approx 70' feet down from the well head and I noticed there's a splice in the 1" poly discharge pipe maybe 6' feet down. I could splice a chk vlv in right there and save cutting the pipe again doewn closer to the pump. Advisable?

as long as the pressure sensing valve is above the check valve it should be ok .
another thought your pipework needs to real good as any air leaking into the pipe under the check valve can cause water to flow back and cause an air pocket after the pump .
is there not already a non return valve in the pump ?

I've had in pump check valves fail only 6 years in. I've added a new check valve above ground. No weight hanging on the new valve. make sure that the check valve goes between the pump and the pressure tank/pressure switch. All of the ones I've had to deal with, the pressure tank and pressure switch have been next to each other. Easy to put your ear on the tank and hear the water running after the pump shuts off. I've placed the check valve above ground in the PVC pipe right after it leaves the well casing. No weight hanging on the PVC check valve. I live in Florida so sand destroying a brass check valve happens often. PVC ones are easy to install above ground. The pump is self priming so no worries there. If you find the valve needing replacement often you can add unions to allow easy replacement every year or so. They are not expensive and as long as the well is still pumping clear water there's no need to go any further.
Good luck

Added a chk valve immediately above the pump and the problem persists. I'm guessing the thermal's weak from repeated trips? I think everything else is working fine so a new pump will be purchased/ordered today.

Add a cycle stop valve.

Well that does suck. I've been told by well drillers that expected life of a pump is not beyond 7 years. If under that time try disassembling and checking start cap, if it has one, and start coil switch. But all in all if it's past the 7 year mark almost more trouble to remove and reinstall then check. If time allowed a large drum with water and pipe to run as a test bench for the pump. At least you'll have the peace of mind that its really fixed this time. I've got one in the ground right now that's making noise, it's time is almost at an end.

Replaced pump this morning and so far so good. Thanks for everyone's input.