PICTURES- BA-2000 Restoration!
- Thread starter super98lsc
- Start date
super98lsc
Well-Known Member
Thanks you guys dont happen to have your parts lists for the resistors and diodes handy? I would love to place a second order today but dont know the fusistor values offhand or how many 1N4148's ill need in total. Mouser delivers overnight for standard rates for me via FedEx. I am lucky enough to live in Austin and they deliver for 7.99 next day 
I counted 6 VD1212 on the parts list.
I counted 6 VD1212 on the parts list.
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super98lsc
Well-Known Member
Cool ordered! Parts arrive tomorrow... have enough other parts arriving today to keep me busy for the night. Ill change the FRs and VD1212s tomorrow. Thanks again guys, I cant believe I completely forgot those... ugh... too much going on.
super98lsc
Well-Known Member
Pictures of the first box-o-parts.
Nichicon Power caps larger capacity and same diameter as originals with 2mm higher posts. I think I can make them work without clearance issues. 15,000uf/100v
Nichicon everyplace else.
All new transistors for every board, I just flat out do not trust the burnt looking ones on the driver boards and several that appear to have been replaced over time which are connected with burnt looking resistors and such.
Nichicon Power caps larger capacity and same diameter as originals with 2mm higher posts. I think I can make them work without clearance issues. 15,000uf/100v
Nichicon everyplace else.
All new transistors for every board, I just flat out do not trust the burnt looking ones on the driver boards and several that appear to have been replaced over time which are connected with burnt looking resistors and such.
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super98lsc
Well-Known Member
Agh... one more question. I know I cannot trust the service manual, and for example on this amp it shows a pair of Fusistors on F-2630 at R605 & R606 which are blank on my board. I do have fusistors on R617 & R618 which arent in the manual at all.
Now for the question... on the driver board F-2661 I see what appear to be a bunch of the ugly green fusistors, some are obviously burned and discolored. However again they arent in the manual as fusistors. Can you guys confirm what I am looking at are actually fusistors? Guess it doesnt matter as I will change them regardless but for learning purposes I would like to be certain what I am looking at.
I beleive fusistors are the green colored ones with the S curve in the legs.
What are the ones with the ceramic heat tubes then?
Now for the question... on the driver board F-2661 I see what appear to be a bunch of the ugly green fusistors, some are obviously burned and discolored. However again they arent in the manual as fusistors. Can you guys confirm what I am looking at are actually fusistors? Guess it doesnt matter as I will change them regardless but for learning purposes I would like to be certain what I am looking at.
I beleive fusistors are the green colored ones with the S curve in the legs.
What are the ones with the ceramic heat tubes then?
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Sriskie
Well-Known Member
I don't think any of those are actual fusistors but I just went ahead and replaced them all anyways. The service manual is not to be trusted on these either. I replaced them based on what I removed from the boards, not what the manual states is supposed to be there. Mine only has 68, 470, and 1k Ohm on that board so it wasn't hard to tell just by looking at them. I still measured them all before pulling because I was curious about how they were holding up. They were all still in spec.
Sriskie
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that KenP!!! You've just learned me something new. I'd never thought to check the schematic as I was shot gunning them anyways, but it's good to know the information is there. The parts lists only show four total and they're all on F-2630. There's R605 and R606 as well, but the values for those and R621 and R622 are reversed on the list for some reason. The schematic agrees with what I actually had on the board.
super98lsc
Well-Known Member
Anyone have a BA-2000 F-2630 board that they have redone? My amp was a parts amp... and that said I dont exactly trust some of the things I am finding. For example my board has no resistors at all in positions R605/R606 and the service manual states R621 should be 470ohm and the one I removed and tested is measuring 11.4ohms (10ohm).
EDIT:
Upon further looking at the schematic it appears correct... going to follow that and pray its right. The missing resistors appear to have been "borrowed" off this board as with a magnifier I can clearly see where they were once in place and de-soldered.
A picture of a virgin or working board would be worth a million to me. Thanks guys.
-R
EDIT:
Upon further looking at the schematic it appears correct... going to follow that and pray its right. The missing resistors appear to have been "borrowed" off this board as with a magnifier I can clearly see where they were once in place and de-soldered.
A picture of a virgin or working board would be worth a million to me. Thanks guys.
-R
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super98lsc
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys this was a big help. This area of the board is where the the parts were "borrowed from this amp" to fix another. Hence my obtaining it for 99.00 dollars.
Sriskie, thanks for the photos and I like that 2 piece capacitor design!! :screwy:
Sriskie, thanks for the photos and I like that 2 piece capacitor design!! :screwy:
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super98lsc
Well-Known Member
Pictures of the progress thus far.
Driver Board F-2661, train wreck of burned traced, burnt out resistors, poor previous repairs, missing components, exploded caps and bad transistors and diodes. Removed components and cleaned one 1/2 of the board ready to install the new components.
Question:
Did someone here on the threads mention that the green mylar caps used in all the Sansui stuff are prone to problems? Should I be replacing all of them along my path with Elna SilmicII or replacement Mylars?
Driver Board F-2661, train wreck of burned traced, burnt out resistors, poor previous repairs, missing components, exploded caps and bad transistors and diodes. Removed components and cleaned one 1/2 of the board ready to install the new components.
Question:
Did someone here on the threads mention that the green mylar caps used in all the Sansui stuff are prone to problems? Should I be replacing all of them along my path with Elna SilmicII or replacement Mylars?
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super98lsc
Well-Known Member
Perfect thanks for the help. Those diodes should arrive any day now.
