Marantz 1060 purchase

bryanfelz

New Member
I'm hoping I can garner some attention on my 1060. I picked this up knowing that it could possibly have issues. The most obvious being a cut power cord. I took it home applied some dioxin, spliced in a power cord, attached speakers, and powered it up.

The interesting part was the speakers start cracking/popping even before powering it up. I went ahead an powered up the 1060 and the popping/cracking persisted. Played an LP and the cracking/popping subsided in the right channel but was evident in the left. The music itself sounded pretty good.

One issue probably related is when I power it off the 1060 takes its time to power down like letting air out of a tire. It takes about 30 seconds before you can no longer hear music from speakers after turning off.

Hoping there might be something obvious going on. I would like to recap this gem but if there is something i could focus on immediately i can do that.

I've attached some photos. I don't think they will show much other than the condition of the 1060 perhaps and if i'm dealing with an early or late. I'm guessing late because of the serial number.
 

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I'm hoping I can garner some attention on my 1060. I picked this up knowing that it could possibly have issues. The most obvious being a cut power cord. I took it home applied some dioxin, spliced in a power cord, attached speakers, and powered it up.

The interesting part was the speakers start cracking/popping even before powering it up. I went ahead an powered up the 1060 and the popping/cracking persisted. Played an LP and the cracking/popping subsided in the right channel but was evident in the left. The music itself sounded pretty good.
There could be some noisy transistors which need ditched.

One issue probably related is when I power it off the 1060 takes its time to power down like letting air out of a tire. It takes about 30 seconds before you can no longer hear music from speakers after turning off.

That's normal

Hoping there might be something obvious going on. I would like to recap this gem but if there is something i could focus on immediately i can do that.

I've attached some photos. I don't think they will show much other than the condition of the 1060 perhaps and if i'm dealing with an early or late. I'm guessing late because of the serial number.

Not a good idea to piecemeal it. Since the unit has issues anyway you might as well go through the unit properly.
 
Are you certain it's clean enough

From the looks of that amp I suspect dirt in the button type switches / selectors to be a big part of the issues you describe.

Hope the following suggestion doesn't raise too many hairs, but this has worked well for me.

You may want to flush the switches with 99.5 or higher alchohol.(ethanol)
It evaporates completly in minutes and should flush out whatever build-up might be lurking in those switches just enough so that you will know immediately if that is where the problems lay.

Unplug the amp. Get a squirt bottle, fill it with the alcohol, set it to a narrow stream, find an gap in the body of the switch and blast away, Work the switches while squirting if you can.
You'll likely see old dust and dirt flow out. Allow it to dry for about 20 minutes.

Then try the machine again.

Not the ideal solution, but effective.
 
Thanks for the input. I'll try the suggestions but it seems like it is some sort of power or grounding issue. The speakers pop even with the receiver turned off.
 
Pull the jumpers from the preamp output and clean the jumpers and sockets. They are dissimilar metals and likely they have corrosion build up as well. Some of the caps in the photos look bulged and a couple I think show some leakage. Looks like the time to do a full recap. Sadly, Marantz did not use the best available parts. You may also need to tackle the resistors.

If you have another amp, preamp or power amp, you can do some quick testing. Pull the preamp output jumpers and run an ic from the preamp output to the line in of the other amp or receiver or input to the power amp. This will possibly localize your issues to the preamp if you still experience them or the power amp if you do not. A good way to see where the issues are and you can make a checklist to monitor and check that you have solved each as you go. I usually also go from the tape output to an amp to determine the condition of the phono preamp as a separate module.

I would tackle the project in 4 stages. 1) power supply, 2) preamp, 3) phono preamp, 4) power amp. The first is needed to get to 2, 3 & 4 properly as source voltage and current is critical.

The preamp in the 1060 is very good and I would put the time and money into that section. The power amp is decent and maybe putting in select parts may kick it up a notch. The little amp is worth the time and effort to bring up, I would not worry about collector status, though and wring it out replacing the jacks, possibly subbing in Alps controls and even a new modern selector.
 
Popping before you turn it on? I'd suspect a worn out / carbonized power switch that is arcing. That's a dangerous thing, I'd suggest replacing it and the safety cap as well.

I'm not sure of the fit but most Marantz units can use this switch and cap:

switch - DigiKey EG1018 Mouser 612-P227EE2B20A

cap - Mouser 667-ECQ-U3A104MG and add a 120 ohm resistor in one leg
 
Pull the jumpers from the preamp output and clean the jumpers and sockets. They are dissimilar metals and likely they have corrosion build up as well. Some of the caps in the photos look bulged and a couple I think show some leakage. Looks like the time to do a full recap. Sadly, Marantz did not use the best available parts. You may also need to tackle the resistors.

If you have another amp, preamp or power amp, you can do some quick testing. Pull the preamp output jumpers and run an ic from the preamp output to the line in of the other amp or receiver or input to the power amp. This will possibly localize your issues to the preamp if you still experience them or the power amp if you do not. A good way to see where the issues are and you can make a checklist to monitor and check that you have solved each as you go. I usually also go from the tape output to an amp to determine the condition of the phono preamp as a separate module.

I would tackle the project in 4 stages. 1) power supply, 2) preamp, 3) phono preamp, 4) power amp. The first is needed to get to 2, 3 & 4 properly as source voltage and current is critical.

The preamp in the 1060 is very good and I would put the time and money into that section. The power amp is decent and maybe putting in select parts may kick it up a notch. The little amp is worth the time and effort to bring up, I would not worry about collector status, though and wring it out replacing the jacks, possibly subbing in Alps controls and even a new modern selector.

Thanks for this information. For the second night in a row I've cleaned with Deoxit and that has cleared up most of the issues with scratchy pots and selectors. Eliminating noise in the speakers. Now i'm left with a pop/thump when i power on the amp and depress the speaker selector. It pretty much sounds like what is described in http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=428210. It sounds like this is normal. The amp still sounds really good I think it most of been sitting for several years and for some reason someone cut the power cord. I will start on the full recap soon and provide status in a new thread.
 
Popping before you turn it on? I'd suspect a worn out / carbonized power switch that is arcing. That's a dangerous thing, I'd suggest replacing it and the safety cap as well.

I'm not sure of the fit but most Marantz units can use this switch and cap:

switch - DigiKey EG1018 Mouser 612-P227EE2B20A

cap - Mouser 667-ECQ-U3A104MG and add a 120 ohm resistor in one leg

Thank you for the information. I'm interested in restoring this amp so I'll put this on the list.
 
It's a fun recap - not very difficult. Good that it's working so you can do a straight restore vs having to repair first. I've done two - the first was a straight restore from an initial working state, while the second required quite a bit of troubleshooting that I couldn't have done without the help of some great AK'ers.

Luckily, it's a well known piece that many have worked with. You should have no trouble getting help as you need it.
 
It's a fun recap - not very difficult. Good that it's working so you can do a straight restore vs having to repair first. I've done two - the first was a straight restore from an initial working state, while the second required quite a bit of troubleshooting that I couldn't have done without the help of some great AK'ers.

Luckily, it's a well known piece that many have worked with. You should have no trouble getting help as you need it.
Yes it is....Search the Threads here.

This is what I did...http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=568728
 
Thanks for this information. For the second night in a row I've cleaned with Deoxit and that has cleared up most of the issues with scratchy pots and selectors. Eliminating noise in the speakers. Now i'm left with a pop/thump when i power on the amp and depress the speaker selector. It pretty much sounds like what is described in http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=428210. It sounds like this is normal. The amp still sounds really good I think it most of been sitting for several years and for some reason someone cut the power cord. I will start on the full recap soon and provide status in a new thread.

The pop is normal, read this about how to minimize it.

Tom
 
From the photos I provided can you tell if i have an earlier or late model? Does it make much difference in the bill of materials?
 
What's your serial #?

Don't think it's a really early one. Mine is an early model had metal support rods going front/back.
 
Yours still pops after rebuilding it? Guess I got lucky, no pop after the refurb.
I also have (2) Org 1060's and (2) 2230's...They have a soft thump when Power Up (Nothing at Power Down) as related to capacitively coupled outputs.
 
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