What Main Components to Restore MX110

Perkinsman

"I've never met a fixer that I couldn't break"
I have a cosmetic fixer 110 and would like to restore it so that it functions as intended. I know the electrolytics, bumblees and anything obvious needs to go but any other suggestions before I put in my order? Also, I need the glass if any member has an extra to sell.
 
Hello

Don't forget that there is 3 different MX110 type . All front panels are not the same !

Is it a M ? X ? Z ? serial number type ?
 
Look up radiodaze for a replica glass. Mcrontoshaudio or Audioclassics might have one.
 
I restored my MX110z just last week, though mine was already working fine but hummed just a hair when cranked. I pulled out the seleniums in the bridge configuration and screwed down two 5 terminal strips. I then wired up 4 silicon diodes. I replaced the two main PS caps using 50-50-50-50 cans from AES. The large can for the DC filament supply isn't available as far as I found, so I mounted a terminal strip there (leaving the original cap mounted for looks) and wired up two smaller caps and disconnected the can + wires. I then replaced the other smaller electrolytics. Sounds great, a little more clarity, and no worries. I found good pics on this forum that helped with the diode redo, and I got it all done in one evening albeit a long one. At some point I'll bring it to Terry for an FM alignment, though the FM section is working pretty nice already.
 
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It is a Z series, Radiodaze has them on back order, I'll try the other places. My concern regarding replacement of old components is at which point does it start not sounding like a McIntosh anymore??
 
...My concern regarding replacement of old components is at which point does it start not sounding like a McIntosh anymore??

Answer: When you leave the old caps in place. Snarky answer? Yep.

Longer discussion: These preamp/tuners are now 50 years old. There are very few folks who will be able to remember what one sounded like brand new. Caps age and change the audio characteristics the most. Only when they have been replaced with new ones will the preamp sound closer to what it originally did. I don't go in for all the discussions of the merits of this-or-that cap brand or type.

As for replacement details:

You can leave the brown 'dog bone' caps in place but the others will likely need to go in the preamp section. These caps are associated with the 3 12AX7s, the 6D10 and the 2 6U8s - and the power supply caps and 4 selenium rectifiers.

I do not recommend any changes to the FM tuner section, however, as alignment will be needed after it. If the tuner is working and the operating voltages in that section are in spec, leave them be.

There are some excellent restoration threads here at AK for the MX-110, too.

Cheers,

David
 
Are there multiple schematics for the Z series mx110? I see 2 -.1mf 150WVC electrolytics in the unit but don't see those values on the schematic. I assume they mean .1 microfarad, 150V and not .1 millifarad, correct?
 
There are 3 versions of the MX-110 with the Z series being the most produced. Even in the Z series there were a number of Service Bulletins issued, too, for small circuit changes. So, yes, there are multiple reasons why you may see some differences.

Mac didn't stop the assembly lines when they made changes. They issued a note to their dealer service shops on what they were. That's how we know about them today. Well, that and our esteemed members who once manned those service benches.

Cheers,

David
 
There are two small electrolytics in front (1 mf I think) which should be replaced along with what has already been mentioned. Space is tight there so choices on a replacement cap may be a bit limited.
 
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