Yamaha M-60 and C-60 score on CL

AndySTL

New Member
Tonight I am picking up a M-60 and C-60 from a CL ad. The seller says amp has some static. The price is too good to pass up even if it needs a little TLC.

I've done a search on here and have read most of the related threads but I still have a few questions. One thing to keep in mind it that I am a complete novice. I don't really know how to make any repairs and I don't own any testing devices or even a soldering gun. But I'm interested in learning more about these things. When I get these home I will crack them open and take some pics so I can post them here.

What are the typical symptoms of the DSBG? Could static output be one of them?

Do most people find that these amps need more than just removal of the DSBG? How would I identify other things that need repair? Cap replacement etc...

What kind of symptoms should I look for on the C-60?


Thanks in advance! I'm looking forward to this little project!
 
Tonight I am picking up a M-60 and C-60 from a CL ad. The seller says amp has some static. The price is too good to pass up even if it needs a little TLC.

I've done a search on here and have read most of the related threads but I still have a few questions. One thing to keep in mind it that I am a complete novice. I don't really know how to make any repairs and I don't own any testing devices or even a soldering gun. But I'm interested in learning more about these things. When I get these home I will crack them open and take some pics so I can post them here.

What are the typical symptoms of the DSBG? Could static output be one of them?

Do most people find that these amps need more than just removal of the DSBG? How would I identify other things that need repair? Cap replacement etc...

What kind of symptoms should I look for on the C-60?


Thanks in advance! I'm looking forward to this little project!

Might just be some dirty controls.. I guarantee the M-60 has some glue issues.
 
Quick update. I've got the gear now. The preamp is definitely the reason for the static. I hooked the amp up to another pre and no issues with the output. It has two small cosmetic issue but is otherwise very very clean. The preamp is a little beat up. I need to pop the top on both units for some pics and some cleaning. I may or may not get around to that tonight. First impressions on the amp are great.

Here's the good part....I got both units for $60!
 
I got lucky and chipped away all the DSBG before any components were compromised on my M-60.
It's a real workhorse, sounds very nice with many different speakers.
Just today I realized the Class A button was engaged for quite awhile , it was 94 degrees today and the M-60 was barely running a temperature:)
 
Good news! The preamp static was resolved! I noticed that the knob was a little loose, so I removed the knobs (there's actually two knobs overlaid) and tightened the nut securing the volume module to the chassis. No more static!

I took the cover off the amp and this thing is dust city! I can't even tell if there is DSBG yet. I need suggestions beyond an air duster for cleaning this thing up. These pics were taken after my first pass with the air duster. The dust is very thick and requires more than air to remove it. Is there a good product for this or should I just use a cloth? What about getting to hard to reach places?
 
20 psi air compressor.. Outside in the yard.:D Or a vacuum with a paint brush..
 
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Some pics of the amp post clean-up. I really don't see any DSBG. One potential spot on the base of the two mid size caps with silver tops. Is that DSBG? Any other areas of concern?











 
Some pics of the amp post clean-up. I really don't see any DSBG. One potential spot on the base of the two mid size caps with silver tops. Is that DSBG? Any other areas of concern?

Thats it alright..:yes: Thats usually the only area of concern with the M-xx series. Right around those two caps and surrounding area. They usually slop that crap in between the copper buss rails and it corrodes the small thin jumper wires between the copper rails. As well as adjacent resistor and diode leads in the splattered glue field.
 
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Thats it alright..:yes: Thats usually the only area of concern with the M-xx series. Right around those two caps and surrounding area. They usually slop that crap in between the copper buss rails and it corrodes the small thin jumper wires between the copper rails. As well as adjacent resistor and diode leads in the splattered glue field.

The glue in that area isn't spread too far. Would you suggest that I go ahead and remove those caps and scrape the glue away? How hard would that be for a person who has never done any work like this? What would I need? Just a soldering iron/gun?
 
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Soldering iron. A gun is way to hot .Those two green caps have three pins each. 1 - pos,1 - neg. & 1 - Not used electrically. I believe there 1000µf/100volt- old style Nichicon "KS Muse" audio grade series.
 
Ok, I might do that but I've got it hooked up now and I'm going to give it a work out for a couple weeks.

Any idea where I could find a replacement binding post screw? One of the terminals is missing the plastic screw part. Not a huge deal but if I could find a cheap spare I would buy it.
 
So Andy, how you liking the C-60? I just picked one off the bay. Didn't get the deal you did but still satisfactory. I'm looking forward to playing with it. The phono section gets good reviews. Only thing missing on it is a passive mode or by-pass but I guess the tone defeat is similar.
 
One more question, are these things known to run extremely hot? Mine gets hot in a hurry.

It will if your running it in "Auto-class A " otherwise you may need to check and adjust the idle current in class AB. ie normal mode. If the bias(idle current) is set to high it will heat things up a bit.
 
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I have not opened my M-45 yet, but will they look pretty much the same inside and should I be looking at the glue on the same two caps for corrosion? Still need a pre. What's a good price for a C-60 if one comes up?
 
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