Yamaha A-1000 recap

Z

zmalkovich

New Member
Hi everybody!
I have an A-1000 since 2008. and I think it’s a great amp that I would like to keep for a long time:music:
I’m thinking of recapping it and I need an advice what to do and which caps to use.
Do you have a caps list?
What caps do you recommend to use instead of 22000microF 35V and 33000microF 50V?
Thanks in advance :)
 
Those of 22000uF are good, but the big ones of 33000uF have a kind of deformed –“bubbled” top. I think that’s the first sign of losing their capacity. I thought that it’s a good moment to change all important caps and refresh amp. Wouldn’t you agree?
 
Totally up to you, a lot of the time the big caps are good. They won't be cheap. Push down on the top, if the top moves downward then I doubt they are bad.
 
zmalkovich said:
Those of 22000uF are good, but the big ones of 33000uF have a kind of deformed –“bubbled” top. I think that’s the first sign of losing their capacity. I thought that it’s a good moment to change all important caps and refresh amp. Wouldn’t you agree?
Click to expand...

The plastic tops on the caps of the A-1000 I bought new way back when were convex, when new, not flat. That "bubbled" top is indicative of nothing, in and of itself, except for design aesthetic.
 
That’s a good info. These caps are round. It’s a European model of A-1000. Just to be on a safe side…What caps should be used for substitution (considering capacity, voltage and dimensions)?
 
They are all round brother. Anything close in the nichicon or panasonic line is good, so long as the height and diameter match.
 
I didn't replace them so no, no recommendations. Measure your old caps and post the dimensions then I can have a look at the mouser site.
 
33000uF 50V - 50mm x aprox. 65mm (dxh)
22000uF 35V - 49mm x aprox. 55mm (dxh)
And do you have a caps list for others important caps?
 
Find something close and shim it using pvc tubing. That's the issue, i'm not trying to be difficult but finding exact caps is near impossible. Have the caps tested by someone with an esr meter, if they pass leave them in.
 
I am completely aware of that I can’t change the caps 30 years old with the exact ones. I am asking for alternatives. And as I mentioned at the beginning: caps list of important caps on the board that should be replaced after 30 years.
Thank you
 
Your best bet is to go over the schematic and create a list of lytic caps to replace, I did not replace the ones in the unit that I have- it's going back to it's owner.
 
It's a rough list and may not be 110% correct. Sometimes I make mistakes recording or seeing values.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2qrkYNGpHv6T210RngtbTRsRzA/edit?usp=sharing

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECE-P1HP333HA/P13275-ND/816281 33000uf 50V (50mm dia x 50mm)

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECE-T1HA223FA/P10632-ND/272772 22000 50V (40mm dia x 50mm)
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECE-T1VA223EA/P10624-ND/272764 22000 35V (35mm dia x 50mm)

You'll have to shim the space on either 22000uf.

You can thank me later. Order the 33000uf before they get away.

I use the THA and TUP caps and they work great. Assuming the snap in leads line up with minimal PCB mod, you just snip off the leads you don't need. Measure twice, cut once.
 
Last edited:
zmalkovich said:
Thank you Mr. Brutal you have been most helpful. :)
You answered all my questions in one quick post.
Thank you again. :)
Click to expand...

Avionic has a good post out there somewhere showing the layout of those 4 and 5 lead snap-ins. I would study the data sheet for them, use a template to align, etc. Get it right the first time. Sometimes the holes in the PCB have to be enlarged/elongated and the snap leads straightened, etc.
 
brutal said:
Avionic has a good post out there somewhere showing the layout of those 4 and 5 lead snap-ins. I would study the data sheet for them, use a template to align, etc. Get it right the first time. Sometimes the holes in the PCB have to be enlarged/elongated and the snap leads straightened, etc.
Click to expand...

Cannot for the life of my find this post. I'm going to change most of the caps on the main board, the equalization boards, and possibly the tone control boards.

The mess of wires soldered together at the bottom of the 4 large caps scares me a bit.
 
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