Yamaha CR-2020 Wood Case Restoration, Service Bulletin mods, Recap! (Sydney)

nadstar

Member
Hi AKers,

It's been a long time coming but I'm stoked to finally have this project completed. Before I start, I just wanted to say Thank all the AK members who have posted their recap and restoration threads, in specific Merrylander!

I wouldn't of able to complete this without the advice, guidance and wealth of knowledge here. God bless the internet and AK so Thank you!. I also believe that sharing information like this is a form of me giving back to the community and more importantly to share the passion from one enthusiast to others :)

Anyways so lets begin, my beloved Yamaha CR-2020 Receiver is my first ever piece of Vintage equipment (and subsequently the piece that started all this Vintage mess! :p).

For the past year she had been the main listener in the living room until she started acting and playing up. Her symptoms included, random intermittent cut outs on the output while unit still powered on. She was also running 'burning' hot, I suspected that this was due to previous tinkerers not properly adjusting her bias, and/or the trim pots are so old they have started to drift. After some light tapping on the side and her output comes back on only to keep turning off again, not good. After the 3rd drop out, I turned her off completely and decided it was time for a full look under her skirt.

When I purchased her, the previous owner said he had replaced a few caps in the Power Supply unit, upon inspection I saw about 4 Nichicon PW caps. Why he did not recap the entire unit is beyond me??

I will try provide commentary along with the pictures of her journey.

Starting from when she was first shipped to me, she had suffered some severe damage on the right hand side of her case due to the idiots at the courier company packing her with the 3 metal prongs from the power plug against her side. Ouch!.



My last years setup with Mr Yammy


24/03/2014 - Ready for her restoration



First output board recapped - Panasonic and EXR caps were the choice


Original Toshiba Output transistors


Output board tag strips were so brittle they broke when I started the dismantling. Will need to repair these later.
 
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Old vs. New caps


Both boards completed - Red tape = Right Channel for memory purposes


I made the decision to leave the 4 x Driver Transistors on the Output boards as they tested okay. I did purchase them to have in stock for 'just in case' purposes


Some 'chinese snot' glue before vs after


My trusty Hakko 936 Soldering Station I picked up from AU eBay for $27!! also probably the most important thing behind her, the Dim Bulb tester :D


Battle scars, ironically it looks like this face :-|
 
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Replacing the 30-40 year old Bias pots to multi-turn trim pots


Rethermal pasting of Driver Transistors


Repair of broken tag strips off output board


Light thermal paste on the new Silicon mica washers for the Original Output trannys


Completed both output modules, cleaned and recapped
 
CR2020 Service Bulletin Mod time!

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CR2020 Service Bulletin Mod time! - While I had her all apart, through my research I came across Merrylanders Service Bulletin threads that helped me with mine.

old 32ohm (showing 31.5) resistors vs brand new (showing 34??)


old 22ohm (showing 16.1 and 14.0) resistors



Service Bulletin Mod pic BEFORE vs. AFTER - simply replace those 4 resistors to some NEW wire wound 32ohm 3.25v / 22ohm 3.25v resistors


Output boards re-wire (for reference!)



Lamps replacements to x 4 OEM 9V bulbs


BIAS adjustments time!!


This is where the weight comes from - 6kilos of Power Transform - I was tempted to respray her but ended up not having the time :(


She Lives!! BIAS adjusted to 1mV as per Service Manual, under 48hours of vigorous testing under the DBT.
 
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After all capacitors were changed in Relay Board, PSU board, and 2 x Output boards. I made the decision to jump in and repair the case while I had her apart. Best (and worst) decision ever. It's bad enough that I have OCD, the case took me almost the same time as the electronics work a total of (5 weeks!) LOL

Before


After (BIRD POOP!! [putty work])


Honestly took me 5 weeks to sand, bog, sand, bog, sand, bog, sand....., wait for bog to dry, sand, bog...... finally to get to this. Ready for some Feast Watson prooftint stain.


Top grill - Before...

Wet and dry, 1200 under running water

Ready for first coat...

Underside of Top Grill

Drying time... this too was time consuming, a total of 5 coats!! (LOL my OCD kicked into overdrive with this one)
 
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As I was saying.. 5 weeks to get her to a state where I was happy. Cause I knew once I stained her, I couldn't go back to putty!. time time time, the #1 ingredient.



1st coat


Repair of the side panel damage
 
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Hello !

Very nice job but I have something to suggest :

Service Bulletin Mod pic BEFORE vs. AFTER - simply replace those 4 resistors to some NEW wire wound 32ohm 3.25v / 22ohm 3.25v resistors

Well it is a drastic error to do that, because your new green vitrified resistors will never be open (like a fuse do) in case of short and your PCB will burn before your resistor fail ...

If YAMAHA used "fuse resistors" there it is because the is a reason . Using carbon resitors will be acceptable there whatever you will see a big smoke in case of problem but replace fusing resistors by vitrified resistors....It is a great risk that I will never take for my units (CR1020/CR2020/CR3020) !

And I will add also that heat coming from the pcb need fresh air coming from under the unit and going outside by above if you let enough space for that . I my point of view a better place for the turntable should be found to keep fresh air circulation ..
 
Hi there,
Nice work, where did you get your Panasonic caps from? somewhere locally or from OS.
I want to get hold of some decent caps for a few jobs, and the ones that I can easily find locally aren't really up to scratch.
Cheers
Tony
 
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