Sony PS-X50 repair question

Rey1

Super Member
Hi Everyone,

I just picked up a Sony PS-X50 without a headshell. It seems to run at speed but has a couple of problems:

1) The cueing mechanism is not working
2) the start/stop and speed buttons work intermittently

So my questions are: How tough is it to get to/repair the cueing mechanism? The service manual seems to indicate that I must remove the tone arm. Has anyone ever repaired one?

2) The buttons do work, but I have to fool with them a lot first, could this be an oxidation problem?


Sorry if the questions are dumb, I've never had one of these Sonys before. It does seem to be a nice table and I'd like to get it going if I can.
 
Hi Everyone,

I just picked up a Sony PS-X50 without a headshell. It seems to run at speed but has a couple of problems:

1) The cueing mechanism is not working
2) the start/stop and speed buttons work intermittently

So my questions are: How tough is it to get to/repair the cueing mechanism? The service manual seems to indicate that I must remove the tone arm. Has anyone ever repaired one?

2) The buttons do work, but I have to fool with them a lot first, could this be an oxidation problem?


Sorry if the questions are dumb, I've never had one of these Sonys before. It does seem to be a nice table and I'd like to get it going if I can.

It is a very nice table! Especially with that Sony Tonearm PUA-7. You will be amazed at how well it sounds when you get it up and running! But, I wouldn't worry about not having an original headshell for a couple reasons:

(I have the PS-X65 that has the same tonearm with the original Sony headshell)

the original headshell is heavy weighing in at 11.3 grams. By using a lighter aftermarket headshell (7grams or so), it opens up more options for cartridge choices to work better with that arm within those cartridge compliances.

also, the original Headshell is short only allowing for Stevenson alignment, not long enough to allow for Baerwald alignment on most cartridges. It depends on which alignment you prefer. None is better than the other, just a matter of personal taste. I prefer Baerwald

FWIW, I setup my Dynavector 10x5 cartridge on the PS-X65 using the original headshell. Setup using the Stevenson alignment. It sounded veiled and unengaged. then, i used a lighter headshell (7 grams) and tried Baerwald alignment using a Dennesen protractor- the end result was fantastic! sounded like it should. the lighter headshell decreased the effective mass by almost 4 grams resulting in a closer complaince range to better suit the Dynavector.

I'm sure others will Chime in on the other problems you are experiencing. I wish I could help, but it looks like the PS-X50 is more simplistic than a PS-X65 and that could be a good thing! the more complex, then the more difficult to fix things...
 
I have the Sony PS-X60 with same tonearm. Freaking great table. Get it to a tech, and enjoy. These are a little complicated, but I'm unfamiliar with yours, perhaps less so.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for the info. I have heard that it's a great table. I'm hoping someone here has opened one up and can give me some pointers.
 
The controls probably need to be cleaned. The X50 and X70 I've had both had issues there.

I haven't worked on an X50 tonearm, the one I had worked fine.
 
Since you have to open her up to clean the controls, clean and lubricate the mechanical parts of the cueing system. That includes the cueing lever in front to the lift near the arm. It could be like the switches - just needs clean and lube. If there is a mechanical problem you should be able to identify it when you service the mechanism.
neo
 
Thanks, I'm hoping to open her up this weekend. Hopefully, I'll be able to ID the problem
 
Hi Everyone,

I opened up the X-50 yesterday. The cueing mechanism was an easy fix, just some dried up grease. The buttons were a problem though, I had to deoxit them several times, and they work now, but I still have to press them several times to get them to work. I'm hoping that they get better with some use. I did try out the table and it sounds great. Now I just need to find a place to put it.
 
pulling up an old thread here. just got my ps-x50. has the same problem as yours. i was reading the service manual and if i understood correctly, i have to remove the tonearm to get to the arm lifter mechanism. is this so? i'm paranoid about doing it because that is where all my troubles with my first x-50 began. can anyone be a bit more specific which parts need to cleaned and lubed? thanks.
 
pulling up an old thread here. just got my ps-x50. has the same problem as yours. i was reading the service manual and if i understood correctly, i have to remove the tonearm to get to the arm lifter mechanism. is this so? i'm paranoid about doing it because that is where all my troubles with my first x-50 began. can anyone be a bit more specific which parts need to cleaned and lubed? thanks.

Hi,
Don't attempt removing the tonearm. You probably don't need to and you might wind up with another dead X50. Well, not exactly dead, but you'll lose the bearings for horizontal movement unless the arm pillar is properly secured.

To service the inside - remove the headshell and counterweight and tie the arm to the post. Remove the platter. Unscrew the feet and about 15 small black screws holding the bottom on.
At the bottom of the arm you'll see a white plastic cam and mechanism attached. These are the mechanical parts that need to have the 30 year old hardened grease removed. You can use some kind of solvent or alcohol. When cleaned, you can lightly re-grease with lithium spray.
The cueing lever in front also has a mechanical linkage.

To clean the electronic contacts (front buttons and such) use a commercial contact cleaner or silicone spray made for electronics. You have to spray inside the contact and work it numerous times. Like cleaning a dirty surface, the cleaner by itself won't clean it.

Hopefully, this will get it going. If so, I suggest adjusting the arm bearings under the arm top plate - check service manual. If the arm needs azimuth adjustment there are two tiny screws on the underside of the arm just behind the headshell collar. Loosen these and you can rotate the headshell connector.
Good luck,
neo
 
Don't use petroleum-based lithium grease on the plastic parts. You can get a non-petroleum alternative at most hardware stores. Petroleum-based grease and petroleum-based plastics generally don't mix well.
 
Neo, you were right on dude! I opened up the x50 and cleaned the gunk on the arm lift mechanism. However it did not fix the problem so i tried toggling with the lifter itself. I noticed that when i pressed down on the lifter to give it some clearance from tonearm pressing the button would make it pop up so i tried loosening it up some more. I figured there might be more dried up grease inside of it so i tried squeezing a couple of drops of modell train oil down the shaft and it did the trick. It's coming down a little too fast now but at least i know better how to fix it.
 
"It's coming down a little too fast now but at least i know better how to fix it."

Best to leave it alone now. I think that's how it is. When you cue, the arm lowers in relation to your lever position. I cue by hand and it lifts automatically at the end.

Glad you got it going. Don't forget to adjust the bearings under the top plate. It really makes a difference.
neo
 
I wanna say i want to quit while i'm ahead but i know i won't. :) the tonearm comes down and slaps the cartridge down hard so i might go in again and clean it up at one point.
I also need to fix the xtal lock lamp. It's not lighting up but i've already deoxed(?) The pots for the speed and lamp. I'll work on it a little at a time until i get evrything just right.:)
 
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You can add some viscous silicone to the cueing mechanism if you want to slow it down. I just lower it slowly by hand and it works fine.
 
I wanna say i want to quit while i'm ahead but i know i won't. :) the ronearm comes down hard though and slaps the cartridge down hard so i might go in again and clean it up at one point.
I also need to fix the xtal lock lamp. It's not lighting up but i've already deoxed(?) The pots for the speed and lamp. I'll work on it a little at a time until i get evrything just right.:)

It comes down fast and slaps the cart down hard?
You can use the lever gradually instead of all at once.

I never really looked into it because I cue by hand, but I have a service manual for the X70 which is similar. On top of the cueing assembly housing there is the platform and the height adjustment knob. The only thing connected to the platform and knob, is a spring loaded tie rod. If there is damping I think it would show it?

It could be the X50 is damped and the X70 isn't, but not likely. If the cueing is damped, it should work in both directions and affect the lift function. These tables always lifted immediately at record end or with reject button.

I'm not about to take the bottom off to check it, out so if you find damping in there please let me know. Once again I recommend caution. I almost forgot, I have a parts table. Maybe I'll take a look and let you know.
neo
 
the service manual does recommend cleaning the silicone oil from the assembly and relubing it. before i lubed it it was coming down at a decent speed. i do think i may have put in too much oil when i cleaned it up so it might need some cleaning up. unless the oil can spill into places and muck things up i'll do it some other time. i just want to enjoy the table for now.
 
the service manual does recommend cleaning the silicone oil from the assembly and relubing it. before i lubed it it was coming down at a decent speed. i do think i may have put in too much oil when i cleaned it up so it might need some cleaning up. unless the oil can spill into places and muck things up i'll do it some other time. i just want to enjoy the table for now.

That's the X50 manual? How is it configured, put silicone in the entire chamber or is there a sub chamber?

I don't blame you for not wanting to deal with it right now. BTW, don't know if you tried adjusting those upper bearings with a square of paper as a weight, but it can make a big difference in performance.
neo
 
hey sam and zvezda after i removed the dried up lube oil from the springs i used a couple of drops of model train oil to lube the lifter cam and the lifter base assembly. however, it really did not solve the problem at that point. i did notice though that after a bit of pressure on the tonearm platform it would sink and then come up when i pressed the reject button. it would not do that when i toggle the cueing lever. being almost out of options at that point, i decided to oil the tonearm platform from the outside - i read a post in vinyengine about a guy doing it with wd-40 which worked for him - and for me. it worked perfectly a couple of times but unfortunately, it made the lifter a little too alive afterwards. would viscous silicone work better?

neo, yes, that is what the service manual specifically said. it also said to remove the tonearm, lifter base and cam assembly, wipe off the silicone-oil from them and reapply it before installing it again. i don't feel too adventurous or confident of my skills at this point.
as for the bearings under the top plate, which ones are they and what do i do to adjust them? i am leery of disturbing the tonearm at this point. i'm afraid of ending up in the same boat i was in before.
 
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