Ca 1010 led help

Sidman

New Member

• Apr 24, 2014

• #1

Please excuse the rookie question. I swapped out the lights and put in two resistors following the ca 810 guide lines but I think the 1010 is different. If anyone could provide a bit of guidance I would greatly appreciate it. Pleas note the resistors I took out. The first timed fired up then a bulb burnt out. Second fuse blew. Then all bulbs burnt. Thanks

 

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Sidman

New Member

• Apr 24, 2014

• #2

The leds

 

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Sidman

New Member

• Apr 24, 2014

• #3

Resistors taken out

 

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Sidman

New Member

• Apr 24, 2014

• #4

Resistors put in. Sorry for multiple pose issues with uploading.

 

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39cross

AK Subscriber

Subscriber

• Apr 25, 2014

• #5

Are you replacing bulbs with bulbs, or LED's?

 

Sidman

New Member

• Apr 25, 2014

• #6

Yes I already put the led lights in.

 

S

skippy124

Super Member

• Apr 26, 2014

• #7

Hi,

The CA-810 has the globes in series, and it looks like the 1010 has them in parallel. It will need a different solution than the 810. I'll have a look and see if I can advise what might be able to be done.

Cheers

John

 

Sidman

New Member

• Apr 26, 2014

• #8

Thanks skippy
This may help?

 

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Last edited: Apr 26, 2014

39cross

AK Subscriber

Subscriber

• Apr 26, 2014

• #9

I used the guidance at this website when installing LED's in my CA-2010, but it doesn't appear to be on line at the moment (http://www.w1ngselectronics.com/index.php?page=yamaha-ca2010-leds).

I can tell you I used individual resistors for each LED, I think 470 ohm. if you do not add resistors the LED's will burn out.

The voltage is AC not DC, and the LED's will flicker. You can fix that by adding a diode and a capacitor. I used a 1N4007. The cathode goes toward the blue wires. I used a 470uf 25v capacitor with the positive pin facing the diode.

Also note that the LED's must be wired correctly for polarity.

I am attaching a picture of the back of my board, as you can see it looks like yours.

 

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bberkom

AK Subscriber

Subscriber

• Mar 12, 2021

• #10

I know this is an old thread, but I just did a set of these using a small full-wave rectifier and a 220uf smoothing cap I had in the drawer. I used 1k resistors with each of the 5 LEDs for even current-sharing since they're paralleled. Had to apply electrical tape on the LED housing to prevent a short, and next time I'd use tubing on all of the resistors to prevent shorts. Had already soldered most of the resistors to the anodes of the LEDs and assembled them before realizing it would short. Been working great for a week, and they look bluer in the photo than in person. I may remove the blue tinted lens and see how they look.

 

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Semanon

AK Subscriber

Subscriber

• Mar 13, 2021

• #11

Looks like you used cool white LEDs. Warm white LEDs with the blue lens returns them back to 'close enough' to the original greenish look.

Original 810 with incandescents (one lamp out)


Mine. A little brighter.


Pix don't capture the true color, but close enough.

 

bberkom

AK Subscriber

Subscriber

• Mar 13, 2021

• #12

I used neutral white, but there is a blue lens in this model. I removed it, and they look much less blue obviously. Would probably use warn white if I did it again either way.

 

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