Pioneer SX-1010 volume very low when tone switch on

I've re-flowed the solder joints and replaced the transistors/caps as a test measure. Here is the bottom of the board:





 
sorry... wish I could do like am amoeba, split off into two of me...

probably the relay.

Read the ground referenced voltages at pin 5 and the q3 2sc1318 transistor's collector.

If the collector of Q3 is just at a few volts, the relay coil is powered. I'm just not sure if that's a normally open or normally closed relay.

If you short (a jumper or just a bare wire twisted over the wraps) pins 5 & 6, there should be sound, as you have bypassed the relay contacts.

While I remember the relays failing shorted in other tuners, shunting the signal to ground to mute it, that would just give you continuous sound in this circuit.
 
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I've got 35v at the collector of q3, and 0v at pin 5. When I jumped 5/6, there's absolutely nothing; remove it, sound comes in on the right channel. Tap the relay, sound pops in on the left, too.

I suppose I'll start looking for a relay, I'm sure they're available somewhere on the internet. Unless you think a used relay is a bad idea, which I suppose it could be, since they do go bad from time to time!
 
There are NEW dip relays to use.

it will be a bit hard to source one, because they are running a 24v relay at 35v on this board. In the sx=1250 that uses a similar muting arrangement, they run it off of 25v.

Do NOT get an old relay. I just haven't found the number of the relay that I have ordered in the past.
 
I remember seeing that issue in the last year or so Mark. But I can't remember if it was on a 1010 or a 1250. And there was discussion as to what could sub for it, and possibly a part #.

EDIT:I found a thread for a 1050 with the reed relay problem. Link to the post here.......REED RELAY PROBLEM

DO NOT ORDER This unless MARK OK's it. This is more for his recall than as a part # to order. MARK, TYCO is no longer the Manufacturer, TE Connectivity is. Also the # is the same. Direct link to part here.

Larry
 
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655-JWD-171-28 unavailable


655-JWD-171-24 is - all they have is one, with a 2 week lead time.



528-171-28 seems to be a replacement, that is stocked at greater quantity.

salient search terms: " Reed Relays DIP 24VDC DPST-NO "
 
655-JWD-171-28 unavailable


655-JWD-171-24 is - all they have is one, with a 2 week lead time.



528-171-28 seems to be a replacement, that is stocked at greater quantity.

salient search terms: " Reed Relays DIP 24VDC DPST-NO "

Thanks, Mark! Hopefully this will take care of the issue.
 
AW CRAP!@@%^@&%# ! It didn't occur to me to look at the "availability box" at the time. Sorry Dan.

Larry
 
Good on the relay, now if I can just figure out the tone amp issue. Voltages are good, and I pulled all the transistors - they all tested good. I guess the next step is to find if there's a bad cap on the board; that'll be fun...
 
It work's in "Defeat" but not with the switch in "Tone"? I think that's was the first issue.
I was getting confused when you mentioned "It gets better after a warm-up". Wether that was the first issue or the relay issue.
 
It work's in "Defeat" but not with the switch in "Tone"? I think that's was the first issue.
I was getting confused when you mentioned "It gets better after a warm-up". Wether that was the first issue or the relay issue.

Correct; it works perfectly in "defeat," but in "tone" the volume is initially hardly audible. If I leave it on for around 5-7 minutes in "tone" mode, the volume level with slowly build until almost to a normal level, and you can use the tone controls.

Think along the lines of how volume is affected by cold tubes warming up, it's similar to that. I thought possibly it was bad caps, but I've gone through and pulled about half of them already and they test fine. I'll continue that task just to have it covered.

However, since it's equal on both channels, I don't believe that's going to be the fix. I guess I need to check the power supply and make sure there's nothing fishy there, then I guess move forward from the tone amp board and see what else is in the circuit from that point to the outputs.
 
Check all your ground points for excessively high resistance. If necessary clean them with some vinegar and a stiff brush. Rinse with a cloth soaked in plain water and dry completely. Hair dryer works well for this after wiping the excess up. Then check them again with meter.
 
Check all your ground points for excessively high resistance. If necessary clean them with some vinegar and a stiff brush. Rinse with a cloth soaked in plain water and dry completely. Hair dryer works well for this after wiping the excess up. Then check them again with meter.

Do you mean the ground pins on the tone control board? I checked them to chassis, good for continuity and ~0.1 ohms. It does not appear that there is one resistor that would be in the path for both channels, at least as far as I can tell, but I'll check again - resistance makes sense if it's choking the signal out.
 
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