Help with OLA crossovers please! (replacing/recapping/solder iron)

ksneote

New Member
Hello all,

I recently purchased some OLA. Managed to get a deal, $100 for a pair that needed refoaming, and the seller included the refoam kit (fortunately the "correct" kit from looneytunes2001/Rick Cobb). They sound wonderful and I am very much so in love. :music:

Anyway, my next step is to recap the crossovers. I am a bit confused as to how to do this; I tried searching and could not find a clear answer.

Firstly, should I simply recap my crossovers, or entirely rebuild them? Would there be a strong audible difference in the two options?

If I am recapping them only, from what I understand I need a 13uf cap? I am not sure what type/where to buy this, as there seem to be a few different type of capacitors. I also read that some people can use a different rated cap(s) to change the load upon the tweeter, is this advisable? Or should I stick to what is currently stock?

Lastly, what wattage solder iron do I need for this project? I will be using a solder to hopefully fix up crossovers and amplifiers (getting way to deep into this new hobby...) nothing heavy duty or microboard such. And the correct tip?

Thank you for your help, I just wanted to double check what to purchase before I do so. And thank you everybody, this forum has been indispensable on my quest for vintage quality audio gear!

P.S. I intend to make a picture heavy how to thread of this process, to help other first timers in this!
 
For the caps, you should start by checking on what’s actually in there – I believe there were at least two versions of the crossover and maybe more.

Rebuilding the crossovers completely is a “bang for the buck” decision: the caps will have drifted out of spec so replacing them will restore the original sound, but inductors and resistors don’t change much so there it would be a case of upgrading which might or might not be noticeable – and even if noticeable might or might not be an improvement. Type of cap is either non-polar electrolytic or film cap. I think Madisound has Bennic NPE which are cheap, or you can use Dayton film caps from Parts Express or Axon from Parts Connexion just for a few examples.

I’m not sure what you mean by “different rated cap(s) to change the load upon the tweeter” – if you are talking about using a different value to change the crossover point, then the question is: do you think you can design a speaker better than Henry Kloss? (In other words, stick with what’s in there unless you find a well-documented modification that strikes your fancy).

As far as soldering irons, I’d just say get the best your budget will stretch to. I use a Weller because several places I’ve worked use them for assembly work (I think mine’s a W51 – got it from Amazon) – but others here favor Hakko. For basic stuff like crossovers I wouldn’t worry about the tip – just get used to using whatever comes with what you buy. You can invest in spare tips when you start tackling PCBs.

Finally, if you look at the top of the speaker forum thread list, the first sticky has a list of reference threads. The first of them is about Advents and the second is about crossover parts selection – both should be useful.

I hope this helps – good luck.
 
Thanks for your reply.

I should have better clarified; I wasn't sure if I should stick to the current crossover capicitor design, or use a later one (I have not looked closely at the current design to see what I have). I have no intention of stepping in Mr. Kloss's toes (or to walk a mile in his shoes :D)

I just wasn't sure which of the 3 crossover designs I should put in my speakers; the 1st gen 16uF, 16uF, the 2nd 16uF, 8uF, or the ones in the NLA (which I'm not sure if the tweeter is the same, still a fried egg, so would this crossover schematic apply to the OLA) at 13uF.

I was just wondering what soldering iron wattage to get, 25, 30, 40?

I read through the stickies, as well as did some searching. Couldn't really find a straight answer. :/
 
I would replace the caps with the same values that are in there. The two versions of the original Advent crossovers don't really sound much different from each other and the New Advent crossover has a higher crossover point - 1500 Hz instead of 1000 Hz.

I use a 100 watt soldering gun for speakers. The connections are really too large for a small soldering iron.

Doug
 
For the non standard cap values (13uf , for example) I have had success using a 10uf and a 3.3uf in parallel. I used Nichicon bi-polars from Mouser. Not expensive and they sound good.
 
Thanks for your reply.

I should have better clarified; I wasn't sure if I should stick to the current crossover capicitor design, or use a later one (I have not looked closely at the current design to see what I have). I have no intention of stepping in Mr. Kloss's toes (or to walk a mile in his shoes :D)

I just wasn't sure which of the 3 crossover designs I should put in my speakers; the 1st gen 16uF, 16uF, the 2nd 16uF, 8uF, or the ones in the NLA (which I'm not sure if the tweeter is the same, still a fried egg, so would this crossover schematic apply to the OLA) at 13uF.

I was just wondering what soldering iron wattage to get, 25, 30, 40?

I read through the stickies, as well as did some searching. Couldn't really find a straight answer. :/

Changing out those old NPE caps to the new Metal/Polys will sometimes brighten/change the sound of the speaker. If your crossover is not rotting away dont try to rebuild it and outsmart the gent who designed it....unless ur smarter then them.

If the crossover is in overall good shape no need to change anything but the old caps. I would look at the nice 5% Mundorf Ecaps from Parts Connexion or the Bennics from Madisound. Erse Audio has nice 5%DF caps if they have something in stock... if you want to stick with something that emulates the original NPE's. A step up (or down...lol) is a cap would be the Mylar caps from Carli or Erse and if you really want to brighten up (tire you out) your speakers then you can get into the Metal Poly Caps like the Dayton's, Clarity Caps, Mundorf M Caps, etc.

You could always just snip the old cap's leads close to the bodies and alligator clip in some different caps to try. You may find new NPE's might keep the sound/voicing similar to how it left the factory. Plus, you can solder in the new caps to the old leads and not have to disturb the crossover too much.

For soldering irons, if you are doing alot of pin point soldering than a 40w pencil will do. But I like the bigger Weller 100w guns for large soldering joints/connections where 40w will not get the job done.
Buy yourself some 63/37 solder from Radio Shack or some nice Silver solder and ul be in business. Hows this for a straight answer?? !
 
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Thanks everyone.

I realize that my questions seems quite basic for most of you, but as a complete newbie when it comes to speakers and electrical things, all this can be daunting, with very few straight answers. Like is there an audible difference in the crossover designs, will an over powered solder iron damage components, etc etc. I'm wrapping my head around everything slowly, so thanks for you patience!

P.S. Yes birdmannj, that is a very straight forward helpful answer! :)
 
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When it comes to soldered connections, the faster you can get in there, solder, and get out, the better. It prevents overheating surrounding components. Dwelling on the connection to give an underpowered iron time to melt the solder is bad. The heat will spread to other things unnecessarily.

And don't worry about asking seemingly basic questions. Most of us remember being beginners. Of course, for some of us, that has been a very long time ago. :D

And welcome to AK.

Doug
 
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