Genesis Speakers; Part Out, Fix, Or Rip?

ivandezande

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
Hi,
I got some Genesis speakers from a Goodwill for $14, and can't find much info on them. My main question is the title, is it worth refoaming them, should I sell the parts, or should I gut it and make a new speaker out of the cab (which I'm leaning toward.)

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1411261582.955249.jpg

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Are the tweeter domes meant to be pushing in?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1411261641.652839.jpg

Sorry if these questions are too general, just seeing if there are opinions on these. Thanks!
 
YES..they are worth a refoam! And yes the tweeter are supposed to look like that. I would be happy as hell to find those for what you did! Congrats! :)
 
Thanks! Stupid me for taking the magnet off the tweeter....I need to epoxy that back on now, right? And will a generic refoam do? I'll try to find a green one :).
 
They are very closely related to a speaker you WILL be able to find a lot of posts about - the EPI 100. Probably not worth a ton of money, but easy to refurbish and completely worth the effort.
 
Rick Cobb has the surrounds.

They appear to be G1s, and were owned by someone in the military. No idea why they don't have the model number sticker on the terminal plate.
 
I'll buy those from him, got my A70 surrounds from him as well and was very satisfied.
Just curious, why do you say military? Is it the numbers and letters engraved into the wood above the tweeter?
 
...Just curious, why do you say military? Is it the numbers and letters engraved into the wood above the tweeter?

Yes, service men often engraved their ID into their gear. I've seen it often, as well as regular citizens engraving their ssc# and dl#, sometimes in very distracting places!
 
I'll buy those from him, got my A70 surrounds from him as well and was very satisfied.
Just curious, why do you say military? Is it the numbers and letters engraved into the wood above the tweeter?

Yep. Looks like a military serial number. Apparently quite a few base commanders required it to keep thefts down, sometimes requiring the markings to be on the faceplates.
 
Ivandezande-Are these the Genesis I speakers? I just found some of those myself not long ago and completed my first refoam job. I used the Rick Cobb kit so heavily praised here on AK. It turned out very well. I did start another thread about these, thinking another issue had arisen, but it was a false alarm. I also treated the cabinets with some Howard's Restor-a-Finish (also recommened heavily on AK) and was very pleased. No photos on that as yet.
Keep us posted on your restoration project.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=610798
 
These are strangely, according to the Human speakers measurement guide, both Genesis 1+, even though the binding posts, cab thickness, crossover, and front board finish is different. Could be a while until I order the foam, but I'll keep this updated. The vinyl will have to go, torn, dented, and peeling everywhere on both cabs.
 
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Foam is on! I'll let them dry and pop them in the cabs.
Maybe a silly question that I think I already know the answer to; one cab had a 10uF in the xover, the other had a 8uF. I can only replace the 10uF right now because I have two on hand, but would it hurt the tweeter or even make the speakers sound better together if I put the 10uF in place of the 8uF?
 

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Foam is on! I'll let them dry and pop them in the cabs.
Maybe a silly question that I think I already know the answer to; one cab had a 10uF in the xover, the other had a 8uF. I can only replace the 10uF right now because I have two on hand, but would it hurt the tweeter or even make the speakers sound better together if I put the 10uF in place of the 8uF?


It should have 10uf as per schematics, not 8uf so you should replace it with a 10uf.
http://www.humanspeakers.com/genesis/gen1.htm
gen-1.gif
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1411695926.601100.jpg

that is the 10's xover, and it did had grey foam but it was marked 1+ on the back.

I will most likely buy a new inductor so the crossovers match. .47 vs .9 and I don't have a lcr meter to tell the difference, although I bet I can ohm them both out and if they are close in resistance I'll know they are the same.
 
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