Well I was trying to remove the faceplate on my sx-1010 so I could deoxit. I was using the 2mm allen to remove the tuning knob but they were stripped. I tried all sort of different things to loosen the hex screws, including to much leverage. The nylon pole that runs through the knob to the tuning wheel snap. Anybody know how to replace this or were to get the part? Thanks
Oops! I Broke My Tuning Knob Sx-1010
- Thread starter jacksa8
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jacksa8 said:
it is pioneer part number AXA-056 and is shared by the sx-1010, sx-939 and sx-838 , one of which will have to be a donor unit.
Thanks for the part #, and the models. That should help. I might get lucky at the local repair shops.
As to the size of the allen, first I tried the 1.5mm, assuming it was the same size as my 850. It had no grip at all on the set screw. I read thru the posts to see what size allen it should be. Some said 1.5 some said 2. I tried 2, still no grip. Then I went to non metric, still no luck. At what point these got stripped out is unclear. I'm sure my using the wrong size didn't help. I guess I will have to drill them out.
As to the size of the allen, first I tried the 1.5mm, assuming it was the same size as my 850. It had no grip at all on the set screw. I read thru the posts to see what size allen it should be. Some said 1.5 some said 2. I tried 2, still no grip. Then I went to non metric, still no luck. At what point these got stripped out is unclear. I'm sure my using the wrong size didn't help. I guess I will have to drill them out.
jacksa8 said:
Before it broke it had to be 2 pieces, the part that turned and the part that didn't.... can you take a picture of both pieces, and I will check to see if the stuff i have laying around could be disassembled and some of the parts substituted.
It may be worthwhile finding a small enough screw extractor or reverse twist drill bit to save the decorative knob.
The picture shows there is a central shaft about 4 inches long, with the front panel mount bearing and a counterweight with string pulley area all held together with a nut.
Disassemble nut by holding firmly the area between the string pulley area and the counterweight with a vise-grips and use a 5/16 wrench or socket to loosen the nut. after it is removed the shaft will unscrew out of the counterweight/ string pulley piece (it is threaded inside at the end for the shaft) and the front panel mount bearing.
IF the shaft is too long, it could be cut shorter and external threads re-cut on it.
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terra1
Addicted Member
the Quirky knob.
Here are some things to consider.
If the tuning knob is not pushed in far enough, the set screw will not align properly to grip the shaft.
It can make you believe it is stripped when it is not.
If you use a 2mm hex, it will be to big too insert and will make you think it is stripped when it is not.
I turn the set screw with a 1.5 mm hex so it is just flush in the inner knob and not in the way to catch, then push the knob all the way in on the shaft.
Once the knob is pushed in, you do not have clearance to access the screw hole from the top since the hole on the knob will be recessed too far.
You can just insert the 1.5mm hex screw from the side. And tighten little by little.
Done.
[Just scraped some silicone glue from a knob. I thought it was stripped too. Apparently, as well as the previous owner. Then figured out the problem was the knob was not fully inserted on the shaft. Not the screw.]
Here are some things to consider.
If the tuning knob is not pushed in far enough, the set screw will not align properly to grip the shaft.
It can make you believe it is stripped when it is not.
If you use a 2mm hex, it will be to big too insert and will make you think it is stripped when it is not.
I turn the set screw with a 1.5 mm hex so it is just flush in the inner knob and not in the way to catch, then push the knob all the way in on the shaft.
Once the knob is pushed in, you do not have clearance to access the screw hole from the top since the hole on the knob will be recessed too far.
You can just insert the 1.5mm hex screw from the side. And tighten little by little.
Done.
[Just scraped some silicone glue from a knob. I thought it was stripped too. Apparently, as well as the previous owner. Then figured out the problem was the knob was not fully inserted on the shaft. Not the screw.]
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D.E.K
Loader
What I do is, if I'm not sure what size hex it is, I try a few different "could be" hexes turning them without putting any pressure on the small screw inside the hole. Eventually it pops into the screw and you can feel that it is the right hex. Try what terra said, you might be using too big a wrench (as EW suggested) and thinking it is in the screw but actually it ain't. Because I have ben working on my SX-1010 for months, I took out that knob dozens of times and simply used a 1.5mm hex every time without any problems.
And he can do it ASLEEP, Standing on ONE Foot, and BOTH HANDS tied behind his back.
I'll vouch for the 1.5mm. Tore mine down today and DEEP CLEANED all of the switches, pots, jacks with D-5 AND Faderlube, pulled the covers off the different sections, vacuumed, and brushed. you can eat off the thing now.
Rechecked the amp alignments. Both #1 adjust 49.8mv and #2 adjustment -0.1to +0.1mv Stable after 2 hours.
Took me 4.5 hours total including the alignment adjustments. The tuner adjustment I DID NOT TOUCH!
Larry
I'll vouch for the 1.5mm. Tore mine down today and DEEP CLEANED all of the switches, pots, jacks with D-5 AND Faderlube, pulled the covers off the different sections, vacuumed, and brushed. you can eat off the thing now.
Rechecked the amp alignments. Both #1 adjust 49.8mv and #2 adjustment -0.1to +0.1mv Stable after 2 hours.
Took me 4.5 hours total including the alignment adjustments. The tuner adjustment I DID NOT TOUCH!
Larry