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Sansui SR 838 tt project !!!

STLABC

New Member
I just picked up a Sansui SR 838 off Ebay. What a beauty !! But I have some work to do before she is ready.

Two of the feet have rotted off. A little searching here on AK told this was common. My plan is to eliminate the "stock" feet and replace them with sorbothane isolation feet.....the 2" half spheres. Those of you who have dealt with this issue by now know there are two different types of feet on this table. Three that screw into the mdf portion of the base and one that threads into the base at a far shallower depth. Three pieces of 1/2" poplar cut into 2" diameter will be placed in the deeper mdf openings to even things up. Not sure how I will do the detail leveling yet. If this works I will have two extra feet available. Stay tuned for details.

Can anyone help me with the "pulse" issue? This is where the speed stays constant but increases momentarily once per revolution. This too seems to be a common problem but I never got clear instructions on how to resolve it. One thread claims cleaning the opto/led will fix it.
 
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While I await delivery of my new sorbothane isolation feet I decided to take a shot at resolving the "pulse" issue. After some poking and prodding I found the culprit. The speed is steady now and it was a pretty easy fix. Anyone looking for help can PM me.............noobs and infrequent posters welcome !
 
While I await delivery of my new sorbothane isolation feet I decided to take a shot at resolving the "pulse" issue. After some poking and prodding I found the culprit. The speed is steady now and it was a pretty easy fix. Anyone looking for help can PM me.............noobs and infrequent posters welcome !
Why not post the pulse solution here? That way anyone in the future doing a search in the archives will be able to find it. Doesn't matter if it's a long post.
 
I had planned to do so and include some pictures but it seems I have camera issues also. I will give it a shot without pix........

Remove the platter to expose the motor housing. There are three screws that hold the motor into the base........leave them. Instead, remove the two smaller screws. This will expose what I believe is called the LED/opto pickup which is thin circular piece with ultra small slots cut around the entire circumfrence. Use a small brush or Qtip to carefully clean and deoxit this paying special attention to any debris that may be causing the hiccup. Replace the screws and dont overtighten. My table showed evidence of contact between this LED/opto and it's cover. Perhaps this was causing some problems but the pulse issue was more likley the result of debris lodged in the LED/opto. I am quite sure that I butchered some of the terminology so consider this in layman's terms. GOOD LUCK !
 
Better than fire bad!

I just got my 838 out of the box from the Flea-Bay. It had all the pulse problems (was supposed to be right on the money)

Well, after reading your hint about taking off the two little screws to acces the wheel to clean the shutter thingy, I discovered you can't do that with the big screws intact.

RATS

The thing was all over the board, speed wise.

@#$%%#!!

So, if it was quite dusty, and the wheel needs cleaning, why not blow a little air under the gap towards the edges, and especially where I assume the sensor is by the bump in the cover. I wiped the exposed dust off and shot some light puffs of air in these areas.

VOILA!!!

It works perfectly!

I suppose I could figure a way to remove that cover without dropping the moter, but hey...it frickin works!

Talk about a lot of bang for the buck!
 
Better than fire bad!

I just got my 838 out of the box from the Flea-Bay. It had all the pulse problems (was supposed to be right on the money)

Well, after reading your hint about taking off the two little screws to acces the wheel to clean the shutter thingy, I discovered you can't do that with the big screws intact.

RATS

The thing was all over the board, speed wise.

@#$%%#!!

So, if it was quite dusty, and the wheel needs cleaning, why not blow a little air under the gap towards the edges, and especially where I assume the sensor is by the bump in the cover. I wiped the exposed dust off and shot some light puffs of air in these areas.

VOILA!!!

It works perfectly!

I suppose I could figure a way to remove that cover without dropping the moter, but hey...it frickin works!

Talk about a lot of bang for the buck!
Old thread, but I have the same exact problem with my 737. I don’t see what you describe, as far as where the sensor is. Any help would be great. Thanks.
 
SR-838 tone wheel.jpg
Under the platter, under the cover that is the spindle with the tone wheel and sensor. The crap on the tone wheel sends a bad signal to the unit and it tries to compensate leaving bad speed control
 
800E3155-E09A-4E75-852B-AC34BAF383A4.jpeg
Thanks for the quick response! This is what I see on the 737. I see no way to access the sensor without removing the large plastic gear. Sorry to be such a noob, but there is also the other half-circle plastic piece with the label on it that looks like it can’t be removed.

View attachment 1213515
Under the platter, under the cover that is the spindle with the tone wheel and sensor. The crap on the tone wheel sends a bad signal to the unit and it tries to compensate leaving bad speed control
 
Yup pic is an 838. You do have the sm for the table don't you? It should show how to get inside. It is available on vinylengine for download when you register. I don't know how to get into the 737. Good Luck
 
Yup pic is an 838. You do have the sm for the table don't you? It should show how to get inside. It is available on vinylengine for download when you register. I don't know how to get into the 737. Good Luck
Yes, I have the service manual, but I’m not sure what to do even after studying it. No matter, it’s a garage sale find, and the Sure V15 type IV cartridge that came with it can be saved. Thanks again for your help.
 
Looking at your table, it appears the motor drops out from below. I didn't verify this with the SM, though.
 
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