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Teac A-4010 SL belt replacement question.

Robisme

Robisme

Sansui Enthusiast
Subscriber
Looks like it needs a belt. It fast forwards in both directions but does not play.
If I manually spin the spindle that the pinch roller hits the reels move for a couple of seconds.
Is that the capstan motor?
When I press play everything does its thing except the reels do not turn.

Does anyone have the procedure on getting to the belt?

Thanks.

Rob
 
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You have to pull the head block out and away from the chassis, else it is geometrically impossible to replace the belt. The large machine screws that secure the head block are accessible from the rear. Remove the rear panel and use a #2 Phillips.

Once the head block is loose, swing it forward. The flywheel will come with it. I like to prop it up on sandbags. It's also helpful to use a hand towel or similar as an apron so that you don't scratch the frontpanel.

Teac still supplies exact replacement belts.

Fred
 
As long as you are going that far, remove the front panel and clean all of the linkages.

The old belt deteriorates and turns into a black goo. It sticks to EVERYTHING. You'll need a lot of Q tips and lighter fluid...
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I had some Ten Years After set up and ready to play, but no go. I will replace the belt and clean things up in there.
I always use plenty of towels to avoid scratching gear. I will do the same here.
Thanks again.

Rob
 
I use Windex -- which cuts the "belt goo" (it's like tar, ugh!) better than denatured alcohol, and is less toxic than lighter fluid. Make sure you wear your grubbies.

Fred
 
Hi Rob,

The teacman@earthlink.net down in Kentucky sells a replacement belt with installation instructions for around $15. He's a very reputable man. It's not a big job, takes less then an hour. I WOULD consider oiling the motors while you're at it. A small hypodermic syringe is needed. Also, consider cleaning all the old dried grease off and relubing it. Teacman has a book available that tells you how to PM this machine. For the few bucks he charges, I recommend it highly.

I have two of these classics. They're great. It's amazing how a reel to reel recorder 35 years old still has parts available. Heck, you can still buy new heads from a company in Japan for them.

Let me know if you have any further questions, I'll be glad to help you.

Mark
 
toxic??

Fred Longworth said:
I use Windex -- which cuts the "belt goo" (it's like tar, ugh!) better than denatured alcohol, and is less toxic than lighter fluid. Make sure you wear your grubbies.

Fred
Click to expand...

The quantities used are minimal... if you're into the "toxic thingie" use "GooGone" or any limonene based cleaner...

I'm soooo sick of hearing the "toxic crapola" from unknowledgables...

Naptha from Lowes or lacquer thinner also work...

"from an industrial chemist and safety afficer who also runs a medical practice" all this fear and uncertainty about solvents is BS!!

just don't be an idiot and snort the stuff... you'll be OKAY...

John L.
 
"less toxic than lighter fluid"


heh heh heh. No PC here. I live in IA - nothing is more toxic than the hog lots...


Unless you pull out the MEK (methyl ethyl keytone). I have respect for that stuff - use laytex gloves. BUT, if you want something clean, THAT'S the way to go!!
 
I just replaced the belt on mine, and didn't need to pull the head block...

Remove the front cover. Remove the back, then the rear cover to the reel section. If you look from the rear where the large pulley is at the bottom, you will see a slot you can feed the belt through, after you pull the pulley shaft, then work it around the large pulley. Then once on the large pulley, you can work it around the small pulley in the center of the deck.

If you don't have the manual, I can probably scan the important pages for you (like what side of the pulley (50hz-60hz) to put the belt on.(the side closest to the back wall of the deck)

It was a simple job I realized, once I had taken too much apart..
 
bohhey said:
Unless you pull out the MEK (methyl ethyl keytone). I have respect for that stuff - use laytex gloves. BUT, if you want something clean, THAT'S the way to go!!
Click to expand...

Chemistry was a looooong time ago but you might want to get better gloves than latex if you are working with MEK....at least if you spend much time with it on the gloves. Butyl gloves should be good for a while.
 
"you might want to get better gloves than latex if you are working with MEK"

Agreed - I move fast and discard the gloves fast.

I've also heard that it makes you sterile. Too old to worry about that now....
 
Bill, we used to use ethylene dichloride in the seventies to clean rubber parts, etc. Great solvent, great cleaner, but toxic as hell. Stopped using it about thirty years ago. Went to acetone and ethynol. There was this fellow named Bob who continued to swear by ethylene dichloride.

"It cleans faster than any of those others," he would say.

Through the eighties and into the mid-nineties, I kept bugging him to stop. But no, he lived in a cloud of the stuff.

One day I asked a friend in the repair business, "Haven't seen Bob for a while. What's up with him?"

"Brain cancer," my friend said. "Horrible tumor. Took him in just a few months."

This is a true story!

Fred
 
"This is a true story!"

and without saying - sad.

A reminder to us all to treat all chemicals and solvents with respect - and in a well ventilated area!

boh(mind melt)hey
 
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