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The [New] RMGI/EMTEC LPR-35 Test Report

Des_Lab

Active Member
Banned
This is one topic that I do hope one of the mods actually make 'sticky'. This is because among us 'tapheads', there is a lot of confusion over what type of tape to use. Also, the RMGI tapes are rather new. And many folks have not tested it yet. So I am hoping they may find my report somewhat useful in terms of steering them in the right direction for their taping needs.

Anyway, my wife and I did our Christmas a few days early. We both agreed to do so that way we wouldn't have to wait another few days to begin enjoying our gifts to each other. One of the items on my list was five boxes of the RMGI/EMTEC LPR-35 tape (1.0 mil quarter inch 10" X 3600') from USR. (PLUG: The items arrived here promptly, and well packed. So their well-earned reputation remains intact).

Well sure enough, I got them. And today, I decided to test that tape. It is new to me and I wanted to see how it performed.

I asked that she buy the plastic reel version. This is because 1) they are cheaper, 2) I don't like the styling of the metal reels that are available with this tape, and 3) I have plenty of empty reels that I DO like.

So I started out with one tape as shown here.

RMGI_Tape_Plastic_Reel.JPG
.

And after looking at my stash of unused metal reels, I decided on a Scotch/3M twelve screw 'precision' reel to transfer it on for eventual use in rotation and play.

emptyMetalReel.JPG


These tapes (as did the Quantegy's, with the mysterious exception of 7" X 1800' #457) come leaderless. So I had to put my own on. So I rolled out one spool of each color to decide what I thought would look best.

LeaderColors.JPG


After mulling it over, I decided on blue for the head end and yellow for the tail end.

RMGI_Tape_Kit.JPG


Because the tape was going to be transfered into a metal reel before using, I had to attach the 'back', or 'tail' end leader first. So before going any further, I put the yellow on while still in the original plastic reel. I should point out that the enclosed directions from USR recommend snipping the first 8-10 feet (!!! not a typo) from each end. I feel that's a bit much, so I only snipped the first layer or so (approx 18") from the end before splicing on the leader.

YellowEnd.JPG


After doing this, I proceeded to clean and demag the deck. I'll have more on this below.

Now, I was ready to do a dead-head transfer. I loaded both reels onto my X-2000R and simply ran it. This served the dual purpose of loosening up the pack as well as smoothing out any possible outcrops of oxide on the tape. Because I did not want to possibly skew my testing, I ran it without the record feature on. I would like to hope that it isn't needed on a virgin tape anyway.

Transfer_Begin.JPG


...and here we are while the transfer was in progress, just before the halfway point. If anyone wants clarification the looks of metal versus plastic reels, see for yourself.

Transfer_Progress.JPG


And at the end, the usable length clocked in at 1:36:25, as per the meter on the deck.


I stated above that before doing this, I cleaned and demagged the heads first. Here is the headstack just after cleaning:

HeadStack_Clean.JPG


This tape had an unusual effect on my pinch rollers that left me baffled. After looking around for excess oxide shed, I looked at the rollers. The amount of oxide found was negligible and basically insignificant and nothing to be worried about. The rollers on the other hand, had developed a strange cloudy band in the tape path with the little bit of oxide. It makes for a rather unusual color combination.

HeadStack_Dirty.JPG


The difference between the above two pictures is indeed just one pass of a virgin tape.

Now that the tape was transferred, I had to put the front (head) end leader on. Remember, I chose blue. And so here it is. If you look carefully at the center of the windage hole facing the camera, you can just barely see the yellow 'tail' end.

Blue_Leader.JPG


Finally, as a last crowning touch, I peeled the RMGI label off of the original plastic reel and affixed it to the metal reel. It shows a little class. Although I found out that the ink used on that label is very fragile and some of it crumbled and flaked off because of the peel and transfer. It still looks better than the plain empty reel.

RMGI_Stickered_Reel.JPG
.

Now I was ready to get down to business. Now that the transfer was complete and leaders attached, I re-loaded the tape onto the Teac and used a nominal Maxell "double-M" reel as the takeup.

Metal_Reels_To_Test.JPG


To evaluate the tape, I chose three songs that represent a large cross section of what I typically like to listen to. They also encompass a number of different vocal and instrumentation ranges.

They were:

1. "Learning To Fly" by Tom Petty (videos of all three songs playing on the same deck)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3aVsdXTq28

2. "Fable" by Robert Miles
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zy_N0Y4ufQ

3. "Rennaissance Man" by The Ocean Blue
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_vjjdCstpY

The testing process was the same and repeated for each song.

The first step was to determine where a flat bias lies. Because the X-2000R has both adjustible bias and live monitoring, I was able to set it in real time while doing an A/B comparison. To further validate it, I would often A/B only one channel at a time. The short but noticable time delay between the two sides unfortunately creates a nonbalanced reverb effect. But I do it anyway just to try all parameters. Note the meters are not in synch because of the slight aforementioned time delay.

Monitor_Settings.JPG



Much to my surprise, this tape is incredibly high bias. Playback with a flat bias was somewhat dull. The best sound was with the bias on this deck turned down almost as far as it can go (about -5%). At that point a flat , perfectly matched sound was heard. I should point out that the base noise was extremely low. There was virtually no hiss to speak of. Had I been using the DBX, it would've been as silent as a CD.

Input_Setting.JPG


Next was to see how much input the tape could handle before saturating. This is where I was really surprised.

Pegged_Meters.JPG


Here is what I found. On above song #1, I was able to turn the input gain to the maximum. VU needles were pegged. No audible distortion. That song has a very pronounced accoustic guitar line and only mid level vocals and weak percussion.

Song #2 was able to carry about a sustained +4 with peaks pegging before there was noticable saturation. Song has emphasis on high note piano and heavy electronic beat. Some secondary female background vocals and substantial backing synthesizers.

Song #3: The weakest performer. Was barely able to hit peaks of +4 without noticable distortion. Very heavy drums, bass, and percussion tracks along with electric guitar.

CONCLUSIONS:

Overall a very good tape. It's high bias not doubt contributes to the eye-opening headroom. Unfortunately, if you are using a deck without bias controls, you will almost certainly need to compensate with EQ treble controls turned up. Otherwise the very high bias needed will result in a dull (but rich) sound.

For vocals and high notes (such as keyboards and accoustic guitars), this has to be one of the cleanest tapes I've ever heard. For those kind of sources, I recommend it highly. Unfortunately, this tape seems to struggle with the deep lows (drums, electric guitars, and percusssion tracks). For material that has heavy emphasis on those lows, you will likely be disappointed. In which case I would say go with another tape.

These results were based on biasing with a sound as close to neutral and indistinguishable from the source as I could do. Had the bias parameters been set differently, very likely, the sound outcome would be different.

Thanks for reading.
 
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Great review!!! :thmbsp: My only caviat would be that you should really edit it and substitube the word "low bias" where-ever you said "high bias", as turning the the fine-bias control down, lowers the bias, rather than increasing it, which means that this is a low bias tape.
 
There seems to be some confusion regarding the terminology used here. Specifically, the term "high bias". Now obviously in this instance, we are not referring to cassettes (as in "Type II high bias"). But the context, as I intended it, was that the tape has an inherantly high bias due to the nature of the oxide.

More to the point: this tape, if loaded on a machine, will be overbiased if used at the default/flat settings. This results in a high[er] threshold of distortion but a duller, muffled soundimng playback-which I noted. The bias is too high. Hence 'high bias'. I don't see how needing to reduce it to achieve brighter/flat sound means that it's in fact a low bias tape.

And on the flip side, reducing bias will increase the perceived highs. But at the expense of a lower threshold of distortion.

Now maybe I'm confused here. Maybe someone who is or was a tech or engineer can clarify this point.

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DL-Modern reporting
 
I will certainly agree that it would have seemed to have been far too "overbiased" at the center setting, since it sounded so dull. But calling it a "high-bias" tape because it seemed to be far too "overbiased" at the center setting (causing you to significantly lower your fine-bias setting to get your highs-back) has your terminology reversed. Therefore from your description, this appears to be a slighlty LOWER bias tape, not higher.

However I'm not going to argue this point, as entire books have been written on the subject of tape calibration, which I can't even begin to do justice to in a couple of paragraphs.

Regardless, great work! That is a fantastic post! :thmbsp:
 
How bout this. I bought one of these tapes. Pancake. I needed it to test my machine cuz it hasnt been used in years and dont work right. My deck has no bias control and something is wrong with either the play or record head. I only have one channel. I havent used one of these things in 10 or more years. I cleaned it up, hooked it up, and put my NEW tape on. I recorded 3 songs. I could only listen to them basically in mono. For what i heard these tapes sound great. I set my levels to peak at 0 and went with it. Sounded great as far as a test. Once i get my machine fixed i can get a better idea. But for what it cost and how it sounded so far, its well worth the money.
 
All three songs are direct from CD's. The Tom Petty one was AAD, Robert Miles, DDD, and The Ocean Blue is actually a dub from a vinyl LP. I'm not sure what you are driving at there (I think I have an idea though). But I don't think that the source is terribly important when the objectives of my test were to determine A) how it sounds, b) How close I can get it to mimic the source, C) how much signal it could tolerate, and D) how much tweaking (or not) was required to achieve A-C.

Now regarding the semantics of bias, I too, am not going to continue that ad nauseum. I believe the points have been made and anyone using tape ought to be able to get the gist of the original message.

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DL-Heckle and Jeckle
 
not drivin' at anything, des. i'm very ignorant regarding these machines, but am curious, and always thinkin' in the back of me 'ead about getting one, but don't know where to start, and always wonder what the advantages are to using reel to reel. i particularly don't understand taping cd's-- and that's not a judgment, just a failure to grasp the why of it.
 
Here are the benefits to using a tape recorder (specifically a reel to reel) as I see it.

1. You can have long periods of uninterrupted play.
2. You can custom-mix the individual tracks on tape-in any order you want.
3. They are flexible and tape isn't too difficult to edit.
4. A good deck and tape can yield recordings virtually indistinguishable from the source.
5. You can record a custom EQ curve without having to reset the tone controls every time.
6. They just LOOK cool.

Now some audiophile 'purists' scoff at tape. They lump the entire medium into the 'etcetera' column of audio along with light bulbs, RCA cords, and 45 record spindle adaptors. But that mindset is a topic for another day.

Tape does have some drawbacks, most notably:

1. It is expensive. Blanks (whether acquired new or as NOS), either way, it is not cheap. Decks too aren't that cheap. Well maintained plug-and-play models are getting hard to come by. And when found, are priced to the moon. And for good reason. Unless you have the parts and the skill to perform most or all repairs yourself, don't be fooled by the low cost of "fixer-upper" decks. In most cases, by the time you factor in the cost of researching qualified techs, shipping where needed, parts, labor, and time/frustration, it all comes out about even. In other words, there is no such thing as a cheap reel to reel.

2. Decks are highly mechanized pieces. More moving parts=greater statistical probability of eventual failure.

3. Tape hiss. No matter how hard you try, there is no way around this. ALL tape carries an inherant amount of hiss. As such, with each 'generation', the quality deteriorates.

4. They are high maintennance. The heads need to be cleaned and demagnetized, some parts need to be lubricated. And even a deck not in active use needs to be plugged in and ran at least twice a year to maintain operational proficiency.

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DL-lemons or lemonade?
 
Interesting and useful for us "tapeheads"!

How would you rate this tape in comparison to others such as Quantegy 456, GP9 or 3M 996? And I mean just subjectively, how you like working with it and how it sounds on your deck. Most of us have our favorites, apart from the specs of the tape itself.

The "sexiness" of open reel cannot be overemphasized :banana:
 
The "sexiness" of open reel cannot be overemphasized :banana:

:yes: :D :thmbsp: :banana: :rockon: :yippy: :cool: :para:

Here's a question, DesLab, how does it sound if you just peak at 0 or +1 db?

I have a habit of recording like that, and not trying to go over the 0db mark, except on insane peaks.
 
At zero or +1, the tape sounds awesome. That was not enough to saturate at any level. If that's what you record at, then you'll probably like the tape. Assuming of course you can get close to flat playback. I'm thinking maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to give this tape a try in my X-1000R. That deck has no adjustible bias. Just the three settings: LHI, LHII, and EE. Maybe I'll do that soon. But it wont be today or tomorrow. Too much Christmas stuff to do. As I write this, I have just finished a bottle of Red Stripe Jamaican beer and fixin to have another. The wife just finished her cooking and baking and we have "Christmas Story" on as well. So it's a good afternoon.

But I digress. When I record, I generally like to push the needles as far into the red as I can without distorting. Typically, using Maxell UD or XLI, I can get away with a sustained +1 with peaks up to about +3.

Now as to how it compares to 456, 996, etc. I'm not sure. Those are all 1.5 mil tapes. The LPR 35 is a 1.0. So it's not quite an even keeled match. The closest one on the list is #457. That one also requires lowering of the bias to get flat sound. But not by as much. Maybe only -2 1/2 %. The Maxells, I reduce by 1%. Ditto for #407. And I haven't really tried the 3M tapes; every one I encountered was suffering from SSS. Although I do have a huge pile of unused Scotch "Classic" tapes, I'm afraid to even try them because they are so old and that tape is a known SSS offender as well.

I would have to say that based on all the tapes I've tried, this tape ranks somewhere between 407 and 457. I like the 407 because it's essentially a clone of Maxell XLI-itself being a tried and true tape that you can't go wrong with to achieve awesome results with basically no tweaking of the tone controls. And 457 can handle deep lows better than the LPR-35 reviewed at the beginning of this topic.

So given a choice, I would give favor to the 457 or 407 above the LPR35.


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DL-Klondike 555
 
At zero or +1, the tape sounds awesome. That was not enough to saturate at any level. If that's what you record at, then you'll probably like the tape. Assuming of course you can get close to flat playback. I'm thinking maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to give this tape a try in my X-1000R. That deck has no adjustible bias. Just the three settings: LHI, LHII, and EE. Maybe I'll do that soon. But it wont be today or tomorrow. Too much Christmas stuff to do. As I write this, I have just finished a bottle of Red Stripe Jamaican beer and fixin to have another. The wife just finished her cooking and baking and we have "Christmas Story" on as well. So it's a good afternoon.
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DL-Klondike 555

I have a TEAC A-3340S, and it only has 1 and 2 as bias settings. If I were to use this tape, what should I use?
 
The very first deck I used was a Teac A-3300SX. I believe that your deck is from the same family. As I recall, it had two switches: a bias AND an EQ. And each one had a "1" and "2" setting. So that creates a total of four possible settings: 1-1, 1-2, 2-1, and 2-2.

I can't really say for sure which one to set it at. This is because I don't have access to that deck to try it. If you already bought some of the tape, all I can suggest would be to try it at all four settings and see which one works best for you. If none of them do, then stick with what tape does. On a deck that vintage, NOS Maxell or Quantegy #407 will be adequate. But if you can and do get [good] sound out of a high end tape-such as #457, then I would have to say go with the corresponding setting.

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DL-Four play
 
The very first deck I used was a Teac A-3300SX. I believe that your deck is from the same family. As I recall, it had two switches: a bias AND an EQ. And each one had a "1" and "2" setting. So that creates a total of four possible settings: 1-1, 1-2, 2-1, and 2-2.

I can't really say for sure which one to set it at. This is because I don't have access to that deck to try it. If you already bought some of the tape, all I can suggest would be to try it at all four settings and see which one works best for you. If none of them do, then stick with what tape does. On a deck that vintage, NOS Maxell or Quantegy #407 will be adequate. But if you can and do get sound out of a high end tape-such as #457, then I would have to say go with that setting.

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DL-Four play

Haven't bought any, but I am thinking about it. I don't mind about the plastic reels, so I think that it would be cheaper to buy that new than NOS Maxell, although I have a couple Maxell 10.5 inchers, even one 35-180.....
 
Thanks for the write-up. Sounds like this might be a good tape to try when I get my Otari MX5050BII in a couple days. :cool:
 
Bias

having been recording on rtr since 1968, the standard terminology for all tapes was (and is, afaik) "high bias" means a tape requires higher levels of the recording bias signal, and "low bias" means lower levels of bias to reach the linear recording region. popularized in the late '60's and early '70's when chrome tapes came out

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/audio/bias.html

hence the normal definition of "high" meaning "more" and "low" meaning "less".

Other usage confuses some of us oldtimers...:yes::D:scratch2:

John L.
 
calibrating tape

I have a TEAC A-3340S, and it only has 1 and 2 as bias settings. If I were to use this tape, what should I use?

You can always record a -10dB 10Khz signal onto the tape and read the output on playback, then use whatever eq/bias controls your deck has to achieve 0dB @ 10 khz relative to 1 khz on the same tape. You can try higher freqs. depending on the tape speed, and try for higher levels as well, and realize this will be calibrating for your deck only, but this is how the decks were setup from the factory and in pro studios using standard tapes, which I have.

On both of my x2000r's I can get 15 khz sinewave @ ~-5dB with some of my tape types b4 saturation. Don't be surprised at the dropouts/gurgling, etc. you hear as well, this is pretty extreme test for most any machine. I can't hear much above 15 khz anymore (not that that matters) so it's more than adequate for my needs.

John L.:banana:
 
You can always record a -10dB 10Khz signal onto the tape and read the output on playback, then use whatever eq/bias controls your deck has to achieve 0dB @ 10 khz relative to 1 khz on the same tape. You can try higher freqs. depending on the tape speed, and try for higher levels as well, and realize this will be calibrating for your deck only, but this is how the decks were setup from the factory and in pro studios using standard tapes, which I have.

On both of my x2000r's I can get 15 khz sinewave @ ~-5dB with some of my tape types b4 saturation. Don't be surprised at the dropouts/gurgling, etc. you hear as well, this is pretty extreme test for most any machine. I can't hear much above 15 khz anymore (not that that matters) so it's more than adequate for my needs.

John L.:banana:

Thanks for the idea, but that went fwoosh......right over my head.

Can you dumb that down a little? I know nothing about r2r calibration.
 
I'm getting 5 reels of their LPR-35 on 7" reels for Christmas. I'll post how they sound on the Teac 4010 series. I've had great luck with their 1200' reels on my machines already. The peaks sound about right, but I can't say I've noticed the tape being shy in the low frequency area. Maybe that's just me?
 
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