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10000uf capacitor suppliers?

MikeCh

MikeCh

Super Member
Besides digikey and newark, who else might sell 10000uf 80v and 120v caps?

Is it ok to use 200v replacements instead of 120v caps for the power supply section of an amp?...or is it best to find ones closest to 120v?

The 80v 10000uf Panasonics on digikey are palatable at around $11/ea while the 200v Panasonics (assuming I can go this route) are around $38/ea. If they are available, caps in the 120v-150v range seem to be astronomical in price.

Thanks,
Mike
 
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MikeCh said:
Is it ok to use 200v replacements instead of 120v caps for the power supply section of an amp?...or is it best to find ones closest to 120v?
Click to expand...

They'll work. But expect higher voltage caps to be physically larger. Check dimensions of prospective caps to make sure they'll fit within the space of your application.
 
Stuart Pedaso said:
They'll work. But expect higher voltage caps to be physically larger. Check dimensions of prospective caps to make sure they'll fit within the space of your application.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys! Yes Stuart, that is something I'll measure prior to purchasing. Thanks for clarifying that they would work in theory....

Mike
 
Ok, still hunting for replacement power supply caps for this NAD 2200 (100w/ch amp). Thought I'd ask a few more questions here of the experts if that's ok?

My hunt is for:
qty (2) - 10,000uf 80v snap-in electrolytics measuring 35mm x 80mm. Thus far, I've found replacements at digikey and other sources in the neighborhood of $10/ea that are the correct size. Cool, think I'm done here.

--and--

qty (2) - 10,000uf 120v snap-in electrolytics measuring 40mm x 80mm (though my little mm scale shows closer to 45mm which seems non-standard to me). These ones are impossible to find. I can find 200v snap-ins that are 50mm wide x 105mm in height but both dimensions are too big.

Looking at the schematic (attached pic, and Echowars, please chime in if you can) it seems to me that the 80v caps are actually seeing 62v and the 120v caps are actually seeing 95v? Am I reading this correct?

Being that the amp is tauted as having lots of headroom, is this why the 80v and 120v were used initially to cover surge-needs? Would it hurt to stay the course with the 80v ones for replacing the 80v originals and go with say, 100v replacements of the 120v originals? I've found 100v ones that will fit the height/width requirement. Will this hurt things in the long run or risk damage during peak voltage/current draws of the amp?

I'm trying to avoid going with the larger (albeit, available) 200v caps and having to kluge together custom-lead-wires + can-attachment to the chassis if at all possible.....but I will if that's my only resort.

Thanks,
Mike
 

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The voltages on the schematic are nominal readings. If your line voltage is high, the '95 volts' could very easily be over 100.

Tom
 
Check out:

Mouser

and

Allied

I'm currently in the same boat as you, searching for suitable replacements for the filter caps in my Yamaha CA-1000. I feel your pain. :sigh:

Good Luck!
 
It's the 40mm diameter here that's the kiss 'O death. You'll very likely need to see if you can find a way to mount a 50mm cap in there (or just forget about replacing these caps).

In-circuit, they show the voltage measurement after a couple of thermistors. The actual voltage on the caps could very well be over 100V. Measure the voltage on the caps yourself and see if it exceeds 100V.

I don't recommend it, but lots of manufacturers built amps with overvolted caps. SAE, Adcom, Phase Linear, and others. The voltage rating of the cap is given for maximum temperature and ripple current. If the cap is in an environment where it will run cool, and isn't being asked to supply loads of current, you can run a 100V at 105~110V. It isn't like a 100V cap automatically blows up at 101V. Still, it's poor practice.
 
Gentlemen, thank you so much for the sympathy, advice and warnings.

I will heed it all.

EW, I don't like participating in poor-practices either and won't proceed with the 100v substitute even if they can take 101v before blowing up :D :thmbsp:

Mike
 
EchoWars said:
I don't recommend it, but lots of manufacturers built amps with overvolted caps. SAE, Adcom, Phase Linear, and others. The voltage rating of the cap is given for maximum temperature and ripple current. If the cap is in an environment where it will run cool, and isn't being asked to supply loads of current, you can run a 100V at 105~110V. It isn't like a 100V cap automatically blows up at 101V. Still, it's poor practice.
Click to expand...

At my day job I work for a power supply mfr. We used to see caps that you could reliably run at +10%. Not any more. You get what you pay for, but nothing else. I wouldn't run a cap within 10% of it's rating. When measuring operating voltages take into consideration that the line voltage can change. I always assume a line voltage of +/- 10% from nominal.
 
I assume that due to the voltage the larger diameter is the norm but what about a smaller diameter cap, if available. It is easy to oversize a smaller diameter cap into a clamp than to stuff a bigger one. Can you find any caps in your range that are 35mm dia.? Just a thought.
 
I'm sorry to say that the 10,000uf caps with a 35mm diameter only go up to 50 volts.The higher voltage caps he has with the same mf are definitely larger...I'm sorry.
 
That's rough. I've been looking for a double cap, two caps in one housing, and avionic found one which was only $191. Yeah Right! :yikes: Good luck with your search.
 
Ok, so I finally got around to checking out these existing power supply caps....with the help of my Father and his test gear. Both the 80v and 120v 10000uf original caps "are ok for now" according to my Dad, but should be replaced if I intend to keep the amp as the caps are showing their age. I found replacements for the 80v 35mmx80mm and installed them along with the original 120v 45mmx80mm back into the chassis. I checked the voltage with my meter and found that the 80v caps see 62.5v and the 120v see 96v in circuit.

I understand what folks posting here have said about giving +/-10v tolerance for line voltage fluctuations, but since replacement 120v caps seem to be the impossible find.....how many of you would risk replacing the 120v jobs with 100v'ers with them seeing a nominal 96v?

Thanks,
Mike
 
KingBubba said:
That's rough. I've been looking for a double cap, two caps in one housing, and avionic found one which was only $191. Yeah Right! :yikes: Good luck with your search.
Click to expand...

Damn those blackgates are pricey......LOL
 
MikeCh said:
I understand what folks posting here have said about giving +/-10v tolerance for line voltage fluctuations, but since replacement 120v caps seem to be the impossible find.....how many of you would risk replacing the 120v jobs with 100v'ers with them seeing a nominal 96v?

Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...

Yesteryear caps were made with a lot of headroom. You could safely run them at their limits. Manufacturing tolerances are much tighter now. The caps should also have a surge rating you should consider. What was the line voltage when you tested them? My house typically runs about 123. You can try 100V caps, but bring them up the first time with a variac. If they fail in use they will likely short. The short will blow fuses and maybe take out a bridge rectifier. If the cap ruptures it could be quite messy.
 
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