Windwalker,
You inspired me to put more thought into my proto-type and address the issue of wet labels. I took your ideas and modified them to fit my 2 X 4 base that works well with my sink and faucet. The following pics are self explanatory of the basic construction.
The key is the 4 inch diameter can lid. It comes from a 28 ounce tomato can. Remove the lid by cutting it off with the can opener sidewise so that the cutting blade goes through the can body versus the top. This retains the seam (the folded metal) which you want for added rigidity.
Since I build gas powered model airplanes, I had large diameter silicon fuel tubing to use as an O-ring. I used a trick I learned to overlap the ends and make a cut with an exacto knife so the butt joint has the proper angle. The use of the clamp is only so I can take the photo. I willing wife would work just a good. A bead of silicon adhesive glues the O-ring in place.
To build the O-ring I tried a couple of different methods of joining the ends. A flexible piece of rubber with the same ID of the silicon tubing would be my first choice. Since I don’t have any of that lying around used a piece of insulated 12 ga wire bent with the radius of the can lid.
The other stuff and notes:
¼ inch threaded brass rod.
9/32 inch brass tubing.
¼ in brass nuts.
¼ brass washers
The brass tubing slides over the brass rod until you cut it with a tubing cutter. The tubing cutter deforms the end so you will have to fix that. The steel spacers were used only because I had a small piece of brass tubing already cut which was too long. You don’t need them you are willing to make careful cuts on the brass tubing.
The whole assembly pulls out of the 2 X 4 so you can wash the flip side, which is why the threaded rod is so long.
All this material is available at a hobby store, OHS hardware and your local grocery market.
