• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Yaqin VK-2100: Very first impressions

M Jarve

Audio Geek and NGE Freak
Let me first say that what follows is just my very first, initial, etc, etc impressions of my new integrated amp. I've not yet really listened to it, aside from checking for function and to make sure nothing is seriously wonky.

I would like to start with the bad, which is not all that bad, but by the end of this I want you to remember the good, so I'll get the low points out of the way now.

First, the build quality is something of a mixed bag. It seems that they started with a great amp and worked down to meet its price point and still maintain a profit. To that end, the metal casing and cover is really only a step above tin foil. The entire chassis flexes and twists if you pick it up at the corners, and the cover looks like it has gentle wrinkles where it meets other areas. Another weakness is the input selector- if you switch to another input while a different one is still playing, you can hear it bleed through a little. It's not as bad as some input selectors, but it is below average, in my experience. A final initial critique has to do with ventilation. Again, it is a situation where it could be worse, but it would not have taken much to make it a lot better. The top is well ventilated, but the bottom only has some slots directly below the board. Even the substantial heatsinks have no vents below them, though again, it is well ventilated above. I will allow the lack of ventalation on only one observation: I have a Marshall hybrid guitar amp (VS65R) that also contains an ECC83 pre with a solid-state amp, and that has no ventilation whatsoever- it's lasted 10 years without issue.

That about does it for the criticisms (as they are now); lets look at the good stuff.

Component selection is actually rather top-notch. Nippon Chem-Con main filter caps, genuine Toshiba transistors, and Spanish made Piher trimpots. Other electrolytics are by Sanyo and Matsushita (Panasonic), by their markings. The main filter caps are further smoothed by banks of nimble, high-voltage film caps. The tubes have their own 190V secondary taps on the rather good sized transformer. All internal wiring, save the power LED, are jacketed, keeping things neat and tidy. To make up a bit for the flimsiness of the casework (apparently), the cover does have dampening material applied that would make the otherwise veritable resonance chamber of a cabinet quite inert. Finally, the front baffle is made out of a billet of aluminum thick enough to make a Marantz envious.

The heatsinks for the output transistors are anodized aluminum and in the 20 minutes or so that I've played it so far, never became more than warm to the touch.

Since it came to the office, I have not really had a chance to listen to it aside from testing, as mentioned above. In the shop, I have a set of Wharfedale Diamond 7.2 speakers that I hooked up and connected the amp to my P'Mac G4. Although I've owned and run tube equipment in the past I am, admittedly, something of a novice when it comes to tubes. I only let the amp warm up for about 30-seconds before giving it the gas. I have to say that the sound pretty well knocked my socks off in a good way. During the 20 minutes or so that I allowed myself to bother my fellow co-workers, the sound got sweeter and more detailed- no doubt a result of the tubes warming up. Norah Jones' vocals in particular were positively sublime.

The current tube complement is a pair of Chinese 12AT7's and a pair of 12AU7's, though both sets can be replaced by 6N1's. At this point, I see no need to engage in tube rolling, as the sound is quite satisfactory to my ears, but it is nice to know that I have some choices in the future.

I intend to do a lot of listening over the weekend. I mentioned to a couple of you via PM's that I would take the amp down to the T.C.'s mini-fest if it did not embarrass itself in the privacy of my own home. I think you can count on seeing it down there!
 
Register to hide this ad
Let me first say that what follows is just my very first, initial, etc, etc impressions of my new integrated amp. I've not yet really listened to it, aside from checking for function and to make sure nothing is seriously wonky.

I would like to start with the bad, which is not all that bad, but by the end of this I want you to remember the good, so I'll get the low points out of the way now.

First, the build quality is something of a mixed bag. It seems that they started with a great amp and worked down to meet its price point and still maintain a profit. To that end, the metal casing and cover is really only a step above tin foil. The entire chassis flexes and twists if you pick it up at the corners, and the cover looks like it has gentle wrinkles where it meets other areas. Another weakness is the input selector- if you switch to another input while a different one is still playing, you can hear it bleed through a little. It's not as bad as some input selectors, but it is below average, in my experience. A final initial critique has to do with ventilation. Again, it is a situation where it could be worse, but it would not have taken much to make it a lot better. The top is well ventilated, but the bottom only has some slots directly below the board. Even the substantial heatsinks have no vents below them, though again, it is well ventilated above. I will allow the lack of ventalation on only one observation: I have a Marshall hybrid guitar amp (VS65R) that also contains an ECC83 pre with a solid-state amp, and that has no ventilation whatsoever- it's lasted 10 years without issue.

That about does it for the criticisms (as they are now); lets look at the good stuff.

Component selection is actually rather top-notch. Nippon Chem-Con main filter caps, genuine Toshiba transistors, and Spanish made Piher trimpots. Other electrolytics are by Sanyo and Matsushita (Panasonic), by their markings. The main filter caps are further smoothed by banks of nimble, high-voltage film caps. The tubes have their own 190V secondary taps on the rather good sized transformer. All internal wiring, save the power LED, are jacketed, keeping things neat and tidy. To make up a bit for the flimsiness of the casework (apparently), the cover does have dampening material applied that would make the otherwise veritable resonance chamber of a cabinet quite inert. Finally, the front baffle is made out of a billet of aluminum thick enough to make a Marantz envious.

The heatsinks for the output transistors are anodized aluminum and in the 20 minutes or so that I've played it so far, never became more than warm to the touch.

Since it came to the office, I have not really had a chance to listen to it aside from testing, as mentioned above. In the shop, I have a set of Wharfedale Diamond 7.2 speakers that I hooked up and connected the amp to my P'Mac G4. Although I've owned and run tube equipment in the past I am, admittedly, something of a novice when it comes to tubes. I only let the amp warm up for about 30-seconds before giving it the gas. I have to say that the sound pretty well knocked my socks off in a good way. During the 20 minutes or so that I allowed myself to bother my fellow co-workers, the sound got sweeter and more detailed- no doubt a result of the tubes warming up. Norah Jones' vocals in particular were positively sublime.

The current tube complement is a pair of Chinese 12AT7's and a pair of 12AU7's, though both sets can be replaced by 6N1's. At this point, I see no need to engage in tube rolling, as the sound is quite satisfactory to my ears, but it is nice to know that I have some choices in the future.

I intend to do a lot of listening over the weekend. I mentioned to a couple of you via PM's that I would take the amp down to the T.C.'s mini-fest if it did not embarrass itself in the privacy of my own home. I think you can count on seeing it down there!


I sounds like a piece to me Mike. I'm excited about the prospect of hearing it in a few weeks!

We should have more than enough speaker product to challenge it's finer qualities.

RC
 
Thanks for the info. A determined DIYer would have those problems fixed pretty easily. Pair of tin snips, a decent vice, and a dremmel for the vents is all you would need.:thmbsp:
 
I just got home 20 minutes ago and hooked it up to the Denon DCD-2650 and Wharfedale Emerald 97's. One word that comes is "wow". I don't think it's the newness factor either- I think the sound coming from this thing is genuinely good- among the best I've heard. As much as I like the KA-7100, it's simply outclassed by the Yaqin.

Vocals have a presence and "liveness" that I don't recall hearing even in the best of my previous toys. The sound is so completely balanced and natural that it borders on eerie. Imagining and the overall soundstage are as good as I've ever heard, with no congestion in the critical midrange bands. Harmonics produced by steel guitar are silky smooth and very well defined.

Also, I wanted to retract one bit from the "downside" section above: At home, the input selector does not exhibit the same bleed-through I experienced at work. I think I can attribute that to some ground-loop gremlins. I would also add the there is nary a his or hum emanating from the speakers until the volume is about cranked.
 
I see you've already changed your signature, this is truly cool news. Hopefully I'll make it to RC's for a preview.
Now you need to post some pics :D
 
Thanks for the info. A determined DIYer would have those problems fixed pretty easily. Pair of tin snips, a decent vice, and a dremmel for the vents is all you would need.:thmbsp:

Indeed, I spent the last three hours doing just that. With the cover off, the heatsinks stayed relatively cool. But, with the cover on, they got pretty darn hot- I'm guessing 40-50C, as it was not hot enough to cause pain, but it was a hot to the touch after several hours of moderately loud playing. It's not pretty, but you can only see it from the bottom. If I had been less manic, I would have planned it better an made it look nearly stock.

I did not get the slats as wide as I wold have liked, but they do the job.
 
One more little "gotcha", and perhaps a sign of its low-cost lineage is that the Yaqin was in rather desperate need of calibration. Although it has been more and more a standard procedure, I did not check for DC or bias alignment when the amp arrived- I presumed it was too new to need any such work, and besides, it sounds terrific. Well yesterday evening I decided just to test for DC at the speaker terminals, and was rather surprised to find 130mV+ in one channel and some 80mV in the other.

I popped the cover off and checked the bias current: 83mV in one channel, 27mV in the other! Way past the thermal specs for the heatsinks, and they were hot!

I decided to re-calibrate using my best judgement as a guide. It was quite apparent which pots were for bias and which were for DC offset. I decided that ~15mV seemed about right for the bias, and set the pot for it- as an aside, the trims in the VK2100 are very sensitive. Only the slightest touch is enough to change the value by 10mV, and it is very tricky to get anything less than 5mV, though I did accomplish it. Anyways, the bias was set and holding through a power down-cool off- power up cycle, and was still within 1mV when I checked it again (cold) this morning.

The DC offset was a little harder. The difference in offset between a cold power up and 20+ minutes of warm-up time is over 200mV. If you were to check it right after the output relay clicks closed, you would think there is something seriously wrong, but some time later, it settles down to a much more reasonable level. After a couple hours up idle warm up, I calibrated to near 0mV, then replaced the lid. A minute later, the offset was up nearly 50mV- very strange. I took the lid off, and tested again, ready to reset it, but it had returned to a very good 3 or 4mV in either channel. So on when the cover, and when I checked after buttoning it up yet again I ground my teeth as I saw 38-48mV of offset! About this time, the lightbulb finally clicked on. I took the lid off again, reset the offset to about -40mV, and replaced the cover: 2mV! It would seem that the DC offset pot is rather sensitive to temperature fluctuations, but curiously, it does not fluctuate all that much after playing. I wonder if it could be some sort of strange capacitance problem when the cover is on or something... I don't know. I just know that after calibrating it for the opposite extreme, it settles to the happy medium and works.
 
You are indeed a trailblazer. Not many wsould be brave enough to gamble on the sound quality of an unknown brand like that.

You must be a direct descendant of the first human to discover cows milk.
 
You are indeed a trailblazer. Not many wsould be brave enough to gamble on the sound quality of an unknown brand like that.

You must be a direct descendant of the first human to discover cows milk.

There have been more than a few glowing reports on Yaqins other products. I think this company is a winner.
 
The MC-10L, buy a long shot. It cannot, however, compete in terms of power. The VK-2100 is capable of almost double the power output. Not a big deal at all if your speakers are even moderately efficient, though.

MJarve- Which sounds better, the Yaqin MC-10L or the Yaqin VK-2100?!!
 
Vk2100

To all VK2100 owners.
Are your little amps still alive and kicking?
And you are still happy?

Then I am going to order one!
:yes:


---
 
Last edited:
The current tube complement is a pair of Chinese 12AT7's and a pair of 12AU7's, though both sets can be replaced by 6N1's. At this point, I see no need to engage in tube rolling, as the sound is quite satisfactory to my ears, but it is nice to know that I have some choices in the future.

Hello, new to this forum. I have had my vk2100 since 2008 and it's the second generation that takes 12at7 and 12au7 tubes. I got a pair of Brimar 6060(12at7) tubes and another pair of 'Conn' labelled 12au7 tubes. The pcb clearly says that it will take them, but I put them in, and turn the amp on and there is a loud hum that slowly fades away over about 30 seconds. They are not glowing either. I just wanted to ask if there was anything you did to make them work in your amp? I listened to it with those tubes and it sounded way better (more bass, louder, music had more presence-thats the only way I can descibe it), so I would like to make it work. I read somewhere that these tubes use twice the voltage compared with a 6n1...maybe thats the problem.
 
I am sorry to bring up this old post but can I concur with 6060yellowT and ask the members if this Amp is still going strong?

Secondly, I require some help in the calibration of the bias. I understand where to find the bias, and how to measure it with my multimeter. The problem is, I don't understand how to CHANGE the bias to a more balanced level.

Any help would be MUCH appreciated.
 
I am sorry to bring up this old post but can I concur with 6060yellowT and ask the members if this Amp is still going strong?

Secondly, I require some help in the calibration of the bias. I understand where to find the bias, and how to measure it with my multimeter. The problem is, I don't understand how to CHANGE the bias to a more balanced level.

Any help would be MUCH appreciated.

I am curious about how to do this as well. I don't have this particular unit, but I'm interested in it, and interested in how to measure and calibrate bias in general.

I had to edit this comment to add this link which also discusses the bias adjustment in more detail: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=176282
 
Last edited:
Vk 2100

Ok has any one ells had one 12au7 and 12ax7? I had one , it sound very silky , I sold . later O picked one up with ^6n1 and just didnt do it for me !
I would like to try one again. The one with the 6n1 had 12au7 on the board ! I have very seen one with the trodial transformer either ! The prices have went up and at near 400.US there just not worth it! Any ones input would be helpful or has one for sale! Thanks
 
Back
Top Bottom