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DCM TF 700 Refurb starting soon

Rod G-6000

Rod G-6000

Do I See Silver?!!
I'm going to start a refurbish on my TF 700's this weekend. Not that there are any problems with them sonically but the socks are in rough shape and need to be changed. On advice from "Penny Hole" at DCM she recommended using the cloth from Parts Express:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-335
I've also decided to upgrade the speaker terminals while there apart and will be using these from PE:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-302
I purchased some banana plugs also:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=091-330

Everything came in today from PE and plan on starting the project over the weekend.
If anyone has replaced their socks (not the smelly ones off your feet:D)and have any tips to share I would love to hear em.
 
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The caps on my TF 350s were oak and looked great. They were urethaned or varnished as opposed to oiled wood. It took a bit of work to get down to bare wood on those. I tung oiled them only because I had the tung oil and did not want to pay for some urethane. Pics would be nice during your rehab, if you can.
 
The oak caps and bottoms on these are in excellent condition.
Someone who owned them before let their cats use the grill cloth as scratching posts. Luckily none of the drivers have claw marks torn into them.
 
Oooh, I'm looking forward to following this thread. :yes: Fortunately mine (with black end boards) are still in decent condition, so I don't see a need to re-do them yet... but it's still interesting.

I'm getting a little bored with BLACK speakers. My Dahlquists are all black. Most of my Infinities are all black. My TimeFrames are all black. A lot of the speakers that are more commonly oak elsewhere, seem to be more popular in black around here (Hong Kong). Not sure why...cultural tastes? Most of my racks are also black. Most of the Sansui gear is black. My PL-L1 is almost entirely black. Nak tape decks are black. Too much black around here... I like black, but not when everything is black!

Okay, there is plenty of silver and some woodgrain cases, too... but still too much black. Anyway, I'm toying with ideas that won't be too drastic or non-reversible, like replacing the grill cloths with something with higher WAF than solid black, and maybe even adding some nice, lighter colors or even re-veneering black surfaces with nice woodgrains or painting some things (like racks) in brighter colors. Goes against my general learning towards conservative preservation of old gear, but enough black is enough. Mean, macho, cool... but when you look at it every day, it gets slightly depressing.

In any case, since the TimeFrames are among the things I'm considering changing cosmetically, I'm curious to see what is involved in the restoration/rebuild. Thanks for sharing it!
 
Does anyone know a source where I can purchase the plastic speaker terminal cups for the TF 700's? Outside dimentions are 7" X 5". There are also 6 stand offs on the back of the cup that the crossover screws to. These have quite the crossover. I'll post pics when I get home from work.
Someone was in one of them and replaced the speaker terminals....put them in upside down to boot. Very poor job indeed. Looks like a hole was made with a soldering iron and then the plastic broken away with cutters. The terminal plate is cracked in many different places. I replaced the binding posts with the new ones from PE and sealed up all of the cracks for now but would like to replace them if possible.
I have an enquiry in at DCM and waiting to hear back from them.
 
Here's a few pics.

I was able to get the other set of binding posts installed today. When I pulled the crossover I noticed I didn't see any poly stuffing. Upon closer inspection, this one that had not been touched, has the poly fill rolled and tucked up into a chamber inside the cab leaving the bottom open. I took the other one apart again and fixed the poly in that one. Someone pulled it out and spread it into the bottom area of the cab. Replaced the screws I used for the posts so all now match.
Just have the grill cloth left to tackle.
 

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Hey Rod; That is one impressive looking crossover. I'll have to get over and give them a listen once you've got em recapped.
 
Brian, I tried the idea we talked about but have decided not to add the F & F caps. The mids and highs are excellent as is. I did try adding them to one crossover and it's just too much for my tastes. Why mess with a good thing. With the new binding posts and getting the poly fill back where it belongs in the one, they sound better than ever. Of course having them positioned the way they were meant to be hepls greatly.
Give me a buzz when you get back from up north.

There were no grill badges on these to tell which was left & right. DCM sent me the spec sheet with all the info on it. I had them positioned backwards.
 
Rod G-6000 said:
Brian, I tried the idea we talked about but have decided not to add the F & F caps. The mids and highs are excellent as is. I did try adding them to one crossover and it's just too much for my tastes. Why mess with a good thing. With the new binding posts and getting the poly fill back where it belongs in the one, they sound better than ever. Of course having them positioned the way they were meant to be hepls greatly.
Give me a buzz when you get back from up north.

There were no grill badges on these to tell which was left & right. DCM sent me the spec sheet with all the info on it. I had them positioned backwards.
Click to expand...

So which way should they be positioned? I just placed mine "by ear", and now I'm wondering if they are backwards?! Any chance of posting a scan of the spec sheet? [Pretty please? :D ]
 
Arkay, the woofers and grill badges if you have them, should be to left side of the right speaker and to the right of the left speaker. Makes a big difference with imaging and soundstage.
I have to go out for a while but later I will scan a copy of the spec sheet or you can send me an E-Mail address and I'll get it to you.
 
Rod G-6000 said:
Arkay, the woofers and grill badges if you have them, should be to left side of the right speaker and to the right of the left speaker. Makes a big difference with imaging and soundstage.
I have to go out for a while but later I will scan a copy of the spec sheet or you can send me an E-Mail address and I'll get it to you.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm.... On the 600's the badge on the left speaker goes in the upper right corner, which is opposite of what you say the 700's are.
 
I sold my TF-600's a couple weeks ago. Great speakers. They even went for a decent price. Still one of the best kept secrets in vintage audio.:yes:
 
I see there is no fuse lamp or relay on that crossover. The TF 400 has a fuse lamp and according to the DCM spec sheet, the TF 600 has a self reseting circuit breaker as protection. I've not had the crossover out of my 600 yet to see it. Nice that they used all those film caps instead of electrolytics.
 
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