• Please note that there are a few updates and clarifications made in the Audiokarma Rules, mostly relating to advertising and the addition of the new "Paying it Forward" & "Giving back" forums in the AudioKarma Audio Marketplace section.

Turntable spindle oil

denniswilson

Well-Known Member
I have a Technics SL-1200 MKII. Does anybody know what type of oil I should apply to the spindle?
Thanks alot :D
 
Register to hide this ad
My Technics owners manual states: "Apply 2 or 3 drops every 2,000 hours of operation. Use SFW0010 oil (not included)."
 
My Technics owners manual states: "Apply 2 or 3 drops every 2,000 hours of operation. Use SFW0010 oil (not included)."

That's the oil I bought for my SP-25. I don't think it's anything special. A lite sewing machine oil should do.
Before oiling, check the base of the spindle for dirt. Don't clean with IPA. The IPA may ride down the spindle. Use a dry Q-Tip here, then oil.

Ron
 
any lite machine oil, 3 in 1, sewing mach, all at local hardware. No need to spend more than a couple bucks. It's just oil.
 
any lite machine oil, 3 in 1, sewing mach, all at local hardware. No need to spend more than a couple bucks. It's just oil.

The only issue I see with 3 In 1 is that over time it tends to gum up then harden. That's the reason I bought the specified oil from Technics when I bought the deck.

Ron
 
The only issue I see with 3 In 1 is that over time it tends to gum up then harden. That's the reason I bought the specified oil from Technics when I bought the deck.

Ron

And then over how much time would it take for it to harden would be the next question. If it's 10+ years, that's not a bad deal.
 
OK Guys, Thanks
I have some SINGER sewing machine oil in the house. It says on the bottle that its mineral oil. Its clear and very light weight. I'll use that..
Thanks !! :thmbsp:
 
And then over how much time would it take for it to harden would be the next question. If it's 10+ years, that's not a bad deal.

No matter how long it will take to harden or get thick, you'll still need to spray solvent to remove the old oil (3 In 1) before using the lighter oil.
Better to go with the lighter oil at this point.

Ron
 
Actually, I'm not convinced the 3-in-1 oil tends to be thicker or gummier than the Singer oil. I also dabble in collecting old sewing machines, so I've followed the "sewing machine oil vs. 3-in-1" debate for the last year or so.

What we know: 1) there are anecdotal stories of 3-in-1 users that have never had problems by lubing with it regularly, 2) there are anecdotal stories of shops with gummed-up machines that recognized the 3-in-1 oil, 3) there are gummed-up machines that were never lubed, 4) there are regularly lubed machines with Singer oil that have never had problems.

So I looked up the MSDS for both oils, Singer and 3-in-1. Funny, the Singer is listed as a paraffinic mineral oil, and the 3-in-1 as a napthenic mineral oil!! Napthenic tends to have fewer problems with sludge and deposits than paraffinic, and acts as a solvent to paraffin, so the 3-in-1 should theoretically be LESS prone to thicken and gum--I say theoretically because manufacturers have some leeway in how they describe their oil.

My theory? The machines were run without regular lube for years. Then they started to have problems...so the owners lubed them, with 3-in-1 oil, without taking the time to clean the old gunk out. When the machines still didn't work, off to the repair shop, where the natural conclusion was that the 3-in-1 was responsible.

Just my theory, YMMV.
 
I knew a very good tech that stated 3 In 1 would get gummy and harded over time. "Not to be used in TT motors". Just relaying what I was told. He may have had a point. Just look at a can of 3 In 1. Chances are you'll see hardened oil at the red pop-up pin.

Ron
 
I should also add that I bought a sewing machine that had a can of 3-in-1 oil in the drawer. The can looked to be at least 20 years old and had been opened but it still flowed fine, no evidence of gum.
 
I should also add that motors generate a great deal of heat.
I've worked on quite a few Teac R2R decks where the owner(s) oil from the red can of 3 in 1. The heat formed a ring of hard dry oil.
I've only used Teac oil on my decks. The bearings show little sign of dry oil.

I do believe that the 3 In 1 in the red can isn't the best choice for fast speed (1800 RPM+) motors. The blue can of 3 In 1 is a lighter oil. Both cans describe their use.

Ron
 
I wish there was an objective site showing the physical properties of these various oils. Motor oils and industrial lubricants have clearly-defined ASTM tests, I sure would like to see these applied to other commercial lubricants such as these as well....
 
Apparently there was also a similar discussion on Audiogon.
Some on Audiogon have mentioned using Mobil 1 5w30 for its synthetic properties and others have used regular sewing machine oil.
 
Apparently there was also a similar discussion on Audiogon.
Some on Audiogon have mentioned using Mobil 1 5w30 for its synthetic properties and others have used regular sewing machine oil.

No. Motor oil is correct for belt drive platter bearings. Sewing machine oil is for the Technics DD. Two completely different situations.
 
Just curious...whats the difference

The difference is that on the Technics the spindle is part of the motor--you are essentially lubing the direct drive motor bearings. The specification is critical to the operation of the motor. In a belt drive, you are lubing heavy duty platter bearings which require more viscous oil.
 
Back
Top Bottom