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Yamaha CR 220

Tinyelvis

Tinyelvis

domo arigato
Hello all,
I just bought a super cheap Yammie.
Dude says one channel is OUT. We will see.
I found one of these at the local pawn shop. They are charging $90! I shopped around on line and found one on Epay, and bid 10 bones. Looks like I bought it. :scratch2:
I'll update once I get it.
220fa.jpg

I found the manual on line for it.
http://www2.yamaha.co.jp/manual/pdf/av/english/AFR/CR-220.pdf
 
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It's a considerably nicer-than-average entry-level receiver (enough hyphens?) in my decidedly biased opinion.

Check the internal fuses... IIRC mine (a freebie) had bad drivers; I sent it to Rob, who fixed it up good as new.

CR-220.jpg
 
mhardy6647 said:
It's a considerably nicer-than-average entry-level receiver (enough hyphens?) in my decidedly biased opinion.

Check the internal fuses... IIRC mine (a freebie) had bad drivers; I sent it to Rob, who fixed it up good as new.

CR-220.jpg
Click to expand...

Mhardy
Is that a heathkit GR-78 in the background? I built one of those in "73 or 74"
 
avionic said:
Mhardy
Is that a heathkit GR-78 in the background? I built one of those in "73 or 74"
Click to expand...

Yes, yes it is. Garage (actually, barn) sale find within walking distance of my house. Works fine (once I realized that the NiCds in it had to have at least a little charge for it to work).
 
I like mine quite a bit. I think they are quite fine machines. Recently put it up against the HK680i (neither recapped yet) and came away even more pleased. The HK is back at work but looking forward to fixing up the Yammy and putting it into service somewhere in the house...

Michael
 
Care and feeding of all CR-220 receivers:
If your receiver is working, keep it that way. Unplug it, remove the bottom cover, and find all the screws that connect the printed circuit board to the heatsink rail. Remove these screws and shine them up with a file, and reinstall using toothed lockwashers. Remove the top cover and tighten the heatsink rail screws that join the rail to the rest of the chassis. This trick solidifies the ground path. When outputs short this is the usual cause. If outputs are shorted, try 2SB633/2SD613 as a better pair.
 
Nakdoc said:
Care and feeding of all CR-220 receivers:
If your receiver is working, keep it that way. Unplug it, remove the bottom cover, and find all the screws that connect the printed circuit board to the heatsink rail. Remove these screws and shine them up with a file, and reinstall using toothed lockwashers. Remove the top cover and tighten the heatsink rail screws that join the rail to the rest of the chassis. This trick solidifies the ground path. When outputs short this is the usual cause. If outputs are shorted, try 2SB633/2SD613 as a better pair.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the great tip!! Mine was making horrific popping/scratching noises anytime it was bumped--like there was some massive continuity problem. Tried the above tonight and cinched down the heat sink and output transistors. Et voila! Fixed! While I had it apart I hit the pots and selector switches with DeOxit and worked 'em. Only the volume was scratchy but I figured what the heck. That did the trick. Sounds great!

Here's a nudie:

IMG_0319.jpg


I used some Armor All wheel cleaner on the knobs and faceplate and really cleaned up all the dirt and grime. Now it's a nice and bright, shiny unit.

IMG_0324.jpg


IMG_0323.jpg


IMG_0320.jpg


Seems a shame to keep it in the garage! I may have to bring it downstairs and re-audition it to see if it sounds any better. A recap might be in the works next.
 
Tinyelvis said:
Hello all,
I just bought a super cheap Yammie.
Dude says one channel is OUT. We will see.
Click to expand...

DeoxIT the pots and switches first. I bought a Pioneer SX-750, the seller said the same thing as yours. The verdict - filthy balance pot. Works fine now.
 
Care and feeding of all CR-220 receivers:
If your receiver is working, keep it that way. Unplug it, remove the bottom cover, and find all the screws that connect the printed circuit board to the heatsink rail. Remove these screws and shine them up with a file, and reinstall using toothed lockwashers. Remove the top cover and tighten the heatsink rail screws that join the rail to the rest of the chassis. This trick solidifies the ground path. When outputs short this is the usual cause. If outputs are shorted, try 2SB633/2SD613 as a better pair.
Click to expand...
Hi, does this apply to other models too (like the CR420)? Mine makes random loud cracks.
Guido.
 
Not certain about the 420 but from the 620 on up they ran grounding wires from board to board. It would not hurt to do the spikey lockwasher thing to your 420 since it is a single board unit like the 220.
 
Hi, for 420 owners: the spikey lockwasher thing did the trick after I treated the last screw. I am amazed that such a simple fix can make the difference between broken misery and delightful natural sound :-)
 
Have you tried replacing the fuse yet. If yes and it blew.We need to verify the power supply isn't shorted. A dim bulb tester would be handy.

BTW Did you check the output transistors "in circuit" or out.
 
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