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  #1  
Old 09-23-2008, 03:50 PM
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darko darko is offline
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Fisher X-100-A = Fisher KX-90 = ?

Hello,

Iam confused with all the Modell Numbers.

My new Fisher X-100-A / Serial: 64333E


What Modell is this? Is it a X-100-A, or KX-90, or ??

I found Shematics for the Modell's X100, X100A, X101 abd X202, but not one match.
He is the one with EL84/7189 (Original Fisher).





Question: Is it possible to resolder the Main Power Supply, for 220V ?
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  #2  
Old 09-23-2008, 04:01 PM
kvflyer kvflyer is offline
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Can't be sure but the KX stuff was kits built by owners. Called, "Strata-Kit"...
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Old 09-23-2008, 04:13 PM
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darko darko is offline
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do You mean Self-made-Kit's, like Dynaco Kit's ?

My X-100-A looks like a KX-90, but is more like the X-100 with rectifier Diodes.
The first X-100 was with a GZ34.

Iam will komplete rebuild this very nice Unit. Herefore Iam looking first for the RIGHT Shematics. All what is found, is a bit different to the mine one.






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  #4  
Old 09-23-2008, 04:43 PM
kvflyer kvflyer is offline
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Not sure what "Self-made-kit's" means. Fisher, Scott, Heath-Kit, EICO and many others had kits that the consumer could assemble. If the directions were followed properly, the result was a very nice item. For that matter, kits cost HH Scott more than the factory assembled items.

If assembled by the directions, the item could be very nice. I have gotten some Scott kits that were a disaster. I literally disassembled the entire kit and built it up from scratch. For that matter, I am listening to it right now! An LK-72 Scott (with the brown face plate).
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  #5  
Old 09-23-2008, 05:25 PM
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Fisherdude Fisherdude is offline
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It's an X-100-A. If you have a schematic for an X-100-A, it should be correct.

How is the schematic not correct?
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Old 09-23-2008, 05:41 PM
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darko darko is offline
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The OPTs have 4-8-16 in the X-100-A Shematic.
Mine has "only" 8 and 16 Ohm Screws.

Maybe the Shematic is wrong - I cant say for shure.
Have only this one. Nothing to compare.


BTW - The Underhood is beatifull clean and have a lot of spare Place.
The Opposite is my Fisher 400 and the Pioneer SM-83.

I chekd' all the Tubes with a old EMC 213. Its more like a Sony Playstation V.0.2
But, it does read I can compare all 7189 Output Tubes and the 4 12AX7.

Should the Rectifier Diodes left, or better be replaced with 1N400x ?
The Big CanCap's are for shure to dry. I got some fine Nichicon's for this Job.
The other Caps are German made. I would like to replace them all with P716.
They have a grat Job done in the Fisher 400.

One Thing I recognize at the first Impressions-Look, one OPT is a bit thicker, with silver Screws.
The lefthand One is a bit thinner, with black Screws tightened. Nice Surprize :-/

Best Regards,
Darko
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  #7  
Old 09-24-2008, 07:53 AM
joenielsen joenielsen is offline
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It looks identical to my KX-90. PM me offline with your email address and I can email you the schematic.
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  #8  
Old 09-24-2008, 12:42 PM
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darko darko is offline
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The singing Fisher!

Its alive, sounding pretty good.


Yesterdy Evening, I cooked the new Nichicon Cap.
Today I have replaced the 2,2k - 3W Resistor on the Nichicon +Leg.
He was open. Good looking Bast..d with no Function.

Ok, lets go:
I took two 4,3k 5W parallel - was then 2,05kOhm.
A new 270uF100V Cap (was 200uF70V -one Section of the Can Cap)

On 117V nothing comes on. I took a Inverter 12AX7 out, to measure
directly on the Socket - AND - crack, noising, Statics - Heureka!
The Voltage was Ways to low. I decide to go up more with Supply Voltage.

At 158VAC, light Cranking Sound is comming out of the Fullrange Speakers.
( Cheap One, but nice ) - Then, the EL84's began to slightly glowing.

Ok, thats the Way I say and push the Fisher X-100-A up to 200VAC.
Surprizingly good Voice of Mrs. Krall jump then in my Face(...).

Oh Boy, never see a US Fisher to work with Europe Voltage 220V.
Then after reading alot, I found that there was a 110/220V Power Transformer existing around. That was the Mystery. Its a 220V Unit..

Resumee:
1. good looking Resistors can be bad working Ones
2. old looking Tubes must not be good working Ones - Thank You Tubetester
3. Stay cool, when Nothing is happen'd
4. Let the Unit eeeeaaasy comming up - dont push (dry Caps)
5. Make all Switches and Sliders mechanical good working BEFORE testing
6. Drink NOT Alcohol while operating at over 400VOLTS!!!

8. and most important - ask Audiokarma first and read alot!

Thank You Guys for the friendly Way.



Darko
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  #9  
Old 09-24-2008, 05:22 PM
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spaceman spaceman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darko View Post
Its alive, sounding pretty good.



6. Drink NOT Alcohol while operating at over 400VOLTS!!!
Cool, I'm glad you got her working. Yeah, I'd definitely save the alcohol for AFTER working on it, if I were you.
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  #10  
Old 09-26-2008, 10:28 AM
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darko darko is offline
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Hi Spaceman,

if Iam would be I, then I never would drink.




Todays newest Update's:

- replaced the one big uggly Cap with black Cover,
with a brand new BC Philips 220/385V instead 200/250V.
The Measuring Value was pretty bad - 20-60uF, oscilating up/down.
Great "Pass-Trough"

- all EROFOILS replaced with orange Drops from Sprague - 716P / 600V Types.
Measuring Values not bad, but all a bit to high, 20-30%

Soundwise it seems a bit more "colder", maybe crisper, but You know.
Strange Thing this is, Psychoaccoustical are not predictive.

The OPT are different too, like I say before.

The "smaller" is the T11xxxxx4-2B.
The "wider" is the T11xxxxx4-1B.

If I found someday or the one or other, I catch them for sure.



BTW, I decide to connect more sophisticated Loudspeakers.
I replce the Fullrange / without Case / - with Dynaudio's Beasts.
Its funny - They are great Speaker, with clear and powerfull OverAll Range,-
but- they need a lot more of Power to drive them well. 2x17WRMS are
for sure nut enough. Ok, its clear to say, that I need the Dynaudio parallel
with Yamahas NS-1000m for comparing the Amps and the whole Chain.

So wide - so good - Lets take a few deep Breaths in the fresh Autumn Air!
Weekend is here!
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