Refoaming some AR11 and Bose 901 woofers
- Thread starter Wardsweb
- Start date
RuSsMaN
Pudknocker
Great work, and great documentation, Bravo!
Once the woofer is 'clean', ie all the old foam removed, whats the timeframe involved for refoaming 2 woofs?
Reason I'm asking, is I too have some JBL woofs out of a L166 that I need to foam, and wondering if this is something I could get you to step me through at the next bottlehead meet - assuming it is a 20-30 minute ordeal and not 2 hrs.
Of course, I'll make it worth your while in gear.
Cheers,
Russ
Once the woofer is 'clean', ie all the old foam removed, whats the timeframe involved for refoaming 2 woofs?
Reason I'm asking, is I too have some JBL woofs out of a L166 that I need to foam, and wondering if this is something I could get you to step me through at the next bottlehead meet - assuming it is a 20-30 minute ordeal and not 2 hrs.
Of course, I'll make it worth your while in gear.
Cheers,
Russ
From pulling the speakers to applying the first glue is about 10 minutes. Then I wait about an hour before gluing the frame side. Usually let it sit over night before using to insure the glue has totally set.
Tip: I let the surround center itself when gluing to the cone. It naturally holds to the seam edge. I put glue on the outside edge and press it down on the frame. Now I push down on the cone with both and to make sure there is no rubbing. Now that it is centered, I put some thing edge to make sure it sticks all the way around.
Tip: I let the surround center itself when gluing to the cone. It naturally holds to the seam edge. I put glue on the outside edge and press it down on the frame. Now I push down on the cone with both and to make sure there is no rubbing. Now that it is centered, I put some thing edge to make sure it sticks all the way around.
Reel 2 Reel
Mad Dog Junkie
Wards ...what kind of glue are you using?????
Thats the only hold up I'm havin' on puttin the new foam on my Mach Ones.....
Thats the only hold up I'm havin' on puttin the new foam on my Mach Ones.....
jasoncauthron
Active Member
Does it matter whether the new surround attaches to the cone on the inside or outside?
On the ones I've done, I've always tried to place it the same as the original. And I've always cut the dust caps and shimmed the VC in place---- I like the idea of not having to cut the dust caps off. It seems to me that the spider is what really centers the coil in the gap, anyway, and assuming you don't pull it off center when you glue it....
On the ones I've done, I've always tried to place it the same as the original. And I've always cut the dust caps and shimmed the VC in place---- I like the idea of not having to cut the dust caps off. It seems to me that the spider is what really centers the coil in the gap, anyway, and assuming you don't pull it off center when you glue it....
Nooooooooo... don't change how the surround mounts on the cone! Please!
The surround needs to be on the cone that way... otherwise, if you front-mount a surround that needs to be back-mounted to the cone, or vice-versa, you can preload the suspension to where the coil sits at rest, too far outward or too far inward. This reduces Xmax and increases even-order distortion (since the woofer travel will be less symmetric)...
Gary, I generally just use plain old Elmers white glue, believe it or not. On a Mach 1 woofer with its paper cone, it bonds EXTREMELY well. And if you just scrape off the loose debris from the basket, and leave a tiny thin film of the original glue on there (just sand or scrape it enough to get rid of the flakes and bumps), then the white glue will bond great to the frame as well. I've refoamed several hundred drivers this way, and they've all worked great.
The surround needs to be on the cone that way... otherwise, if you front-mount a surround that needs to be back-mounted to the cone, or vice-versa, you can preload the suspension to where the coil sits at rest, too far outward or too far inward. This reduces Xmax and increases even-order distortion (since the woofer travel will be less symmetric)...
Gary, I generally just use plain old Elmers white glue, believe it or not. On a Mach 1 woofer with its paper cone, it bonds EXTREMELY well. And if you just scrape off the loose debris from the basket, and leave a tiny thin film of the original glue on there (just sand or scrape it enough to get rid of the flakes and bumps), then the white glue will bond great to the frame as well. I've refoamed several hundred drivers this way, and they've all worked great.
