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What is the difference between Technics 1200-1900 series?

stropko

Member
I've noticed the 1200 is quite a bit more expensive than the rest...is that just because of its legendary status and because it is better for DJ'ing than the rest of the series? I'm looking for something for just listening, and I think I want to buy a turntable in this series..I just want to know what I'm going to be getting. Thanks in advance!
 
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Bumpity bumpity bump.

Maybe I need to clarify the question: what are the differences between each of the models in the 1100-1900 Technics series?
 
The original 1300/1400/1500 is close, just a bit below in status and performance, and are in order automatic, semi automatic, and manual. The MKII as well, but more like the modern sl1200 mKII currently in production (newer arm and quartz lock).

The original 1600/1700/1800 are also similar, but on a suspended chassis, and are auto, semi-auto, and manual in order. The MK II models also suspended, and main differences are also the quartz lock and updated arm.


Auto means you press a button and the arm moves over to start the record automatically. The arm also returns to the rest at the end of the record.

Semi-auto means you manually lower the arm and at the end of the record the arm picks up and returns to the stop position.

Manual means you do it all yourself. Like with the SL-1200.

All are great tables for casual listening.
 
Bumpity bumpity bump.

Maybe I need to clarify the question: what are the differences between each of the models in the 1100-1900 Technics series?


Impatient? :)


You gotta give time for people to wake from slumber and have their coffee.

They aren't all night owls like us, you know!
 
I've owned an original SL-1300 and SL-1700 and really enjoyed them.

I own an SL-1700 MK II and enjoy that as well.

If you're not finicky, all the above will work out well for you.


The sl-1900 is not as robust and is kinda an oddball model. But still decent.

Want a real cheap but good basic Technics? Consider the SL-d2 and it's variants...
 
The 1100- kinda a collector's item. Big massive table. I have one.

Also, there's the SL-120 (I have one of these too) is the armless Sl-1200.

And there's also the SL-1x10 models- instead of silver, they are charcoal grey. I have one of these too- an SL-1710 MK II.

There's also the SL-1x50 models- these are changers. I don't like changers.

And rare birds like the SL-1301 and such. Kinda segway models betwixt the originals and MKIIs...
 
If your looking for a nice table that is basicly Plug and play find a nice used SL1500 not the MKII version as it along with the 1300 and 1400MKII had an issue in that the part designed for the cuing was terribloe and breaks over time.

The SL1100A is a great table but they are Huge Heavy and take up a lot of space. I have both tables i mentioned along with two Modded SL1800MKII's now those are a step up do to the suspended chasis and the mods I've done to my arms. On the one i'm using now i replaced the Stock arm with a 1210M5G arm, any way as i mentioned in the opening of this post a SL1500 is a great little tabel that can be made to sound even better with a few tweaks that aren't expensive at all.
 
If your looking for a nice table that is basicly Plug and play find a nice used SL1500 not the MKII version as it along with the 1300 and 1400MKII had an issue in that the part designed for the cuing was terribloe and breaks over time....

If the 1500 is a fully manual table, what part is this? A gear to engage the motor spinning? I'm unclear, and suspect you have the answer.:thmbsp:


...The SL1100A is a great table but they are Huge Heavy and take up a lot of space. I have both tables i mentioned along with two Modded SL1800MKII's....

Owner of an 1100 to, eh?

Find anything lacking with it's pre-quartz performance?


Nice score on the 1800s. I'm enjoying the 1710 MK II I have very much, but dislike the lack of manual mechanical cueing lever.
 
If the 1500 is a fully manual table, what part is this? A gear to engage the motor spinning? I'm unclear, and suspect you have the answer.:thmbsp:

The part that fails on the 1300/1400/1500MkII is a plastic part in the riser assembly that converts the push /rotation of the cue lever into an elevation for the cue bridge.

I have (almost) fixed one 1300MkII back into fully working condition with slightly small travel on the cueing and have one more with the same failure to fix (properly this time) when I find the time.

Apart from that failure, these tables are simply fabulus and much much better than the earlier (MkI) versions. But I find the SL-1200MkII an even better TT. Haven't had any 1600/1700/1800MkII but I supose they are as good as the 1300/1400/1500 and without the cue lever failure.
 
The original 1600/1700/1800 are also similar, but on a suspended chassis, and are auto, semi-auto, and manual in order. The MK II models also suspended, and main differences are also the quartz lock and updated arm.

Few questions (sorry, I'm quite new): What is a suspended chassis? What is a quartz lock (I've noticed later turntables seem to have them)?

Thanks :D.
 
The part that fails on the 1300/1400/1500MkII is a plastic part in the riser assembly that converts the push /rotation of the cue lever into an elevation for the cue bridge....

Thank you.:yes:

So this disables the manual lever for arm que as well as the automated feature?

Few questions (sorry, I'm quite new)...

no worrys and no need to be sorry!

...What is a suspended chassis?...

Arm and armboard and platter and motor are suspended in a subchassis by (usually) springs. Table looks like any normal table. Quick look you couldn't tel the difference.

...What is a quartz lock....

Like in a wristwatch, quartz lock is to improve time and accuracy.

...(I've noticed later turntables seem to have them)?...

Older and newer alike. The 1600/1700/1800 originals, as well as the MK IIs, and an oddball model here and there. The 1200 is not suspended.

Suspension is one way of combating vibration and foot-falls on the floor (that translate into vibration).

...Thanks :D.

Any time, my night-owl buddy.:thmbsp:
 
I have the SL1200 Mk2 and the SL 1700 which I bought in very good condition from thedelihaus.

The 1200 I have fitted with a Denon DL-110 and it sounds superb, great soundstage, detail and overall sound.

I fitted the 1700 with a Grado Blue that I also purchased of thedelihaus and it has a very lush and sweet sound to it, not quite the soundstage and detail as the Denon but very nice sounding. You can listen to it all day long. It is also good on older vinyl as it seems to smooth things out whereas the 1200 with the Denon tends to show up bad recordings more.

I could live with either quite happily.

But having both is better IMO.

I was thinking of finding a way to have both connected to my amp so I don't have to unplug cables all the time.
 
I was thinking of finding a way to have both connected to my amp so I don't have to unplug cables all the time.[/QUOTE]

A newbie question, what is the amp that you are using at this point?
 
...I was thinking of finding a way to have both connected to my amp so I don't have to unplug cables all the time.

Radio Shack sells "Y" adaptors you could plug into the phono "IN" RCAs.

They sell splittable cables with them built in, but this won't help you.

The "Y" splitters are small, and I've seen them in various sizes, but mostly smallish.

This would have some effect on capacitance, but I'm thinking it's gonna be minimal.:thmbsp:
 
If the 1500 is a fully manual table, what part is this? A gear to engage the motor spinning? I'm unclear, and suspect you have the answer.:thmbsp:




Owner of an 1100 to, eh?

Find anything lacking with it's pre-quartz performance?


Nice score on the 1800s. I'm enjoying the 1710 MK II I have very much, but dislike the lack of manual mechanical cueing lever.

On all three of the 1300 1400 and 1500MKII it's the part that controls the cuing.
But I'd never pass up an MKII 1500 if i find one for say 20 bucks in nice shape, as i'd just change the arm.
As to my SL1100 I love it maybe cause it was my first REAL table. But I find nothing lacking at all. Of coarse getting back into audio about 6 years ago and with what i've learned over thyat time I've tweaked mine a bit. I'm thinking of rewiring the arm.
 
Because of the way the 1200 series is made NON suspended is why DJ's love em they can be moved in and out of places, only thing is the arms take heavy abuse.
some feel the 1600 1700 and 1800MKII sound livelier vs the 1200KII series do to the non vs Suspended chassis.
But the share the same arm design.
 
I was thinking of finding a way to have both connected to my amp so I don't have to unplug cables all the time.

A newbie question, what is the amp that you are using at this point?[/QUOTE]

I have a Luxman L-430 it has phono preamps for MC and MM cartridges but you switch between them it doesn't have separate inputs.

It's a nice amp with loads of power up there with the top Yammies IMO.
 
Few questions (sorry, I'm quite new): What is a suspended chassis? What is a quartz lock (I've noticed later turntables seem to have them)?

Thanks :D.

To add a bit of detail to what quartz lock is, put simply, the speed controller has a quartz oscilator at a frequency of a couple MHz that is divided to a specific lower frequency for reference.

The platter or rotor also has a frequency generator contraption creating a pulse as it rotates. The pulse generated at the precice 33 1/3 rpm speed matches the quartz based reference frequency.

So, what the speed controller has to do is compare the reference frequency with the one generated by the rotating platter and control keeping the rotational speed constant and correct. Of course the comparison and compensation needs to be made several times a second.
 
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