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Ewave + 2226 Build Thread

tsloms

New Member
Well, I decided to build a pair of Econo-wave speakers using JBL 2226 15" woofers for the low end and the Ewave top end. I will be using the high sensitivity crossover design. This should give 97db/watt sensitivity when finished.

The enclosures for these will be a curved enclosure made entirely from Baltic Birch. They will be about 4.5 cubic foot each tuned to 38 Hz. These will be 40" high overall and 18" wide in front and curved to 12" in the back. I plan to curve 1/4" Birch for the sides in 3 layers. I would post pics of the drawings for these but they were drawn up in AutoCAD. This will be similar to my Recession Buster speakers as built in this link.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1132962

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First I needed a form in order to make the tops, bottoms, and braces. This was made from MDF for smoother machining. The sides were all coated with a 50/50 mix of Titebond and water to strengthen the sides to reduce wear.


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From this form I traced out all of the braces and tops/bottoms from Baltic Birch 3/4" ply. Initially I cut them out with a jigsaw to get the cuts close and then used a flush trim router bit to ensure that all the pieces were cut the same.

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4 of these pieces will be used for braces so it was necessary to cut windows out of the braces. Again for these I cut 1 piece up as a template and flush router trimmed the rest of the pieces to match it.

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All of the braces were then given a 1/4" roundover in the windows to clean them up.

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Using a biscuit joiner the end pieces of the first enclosure were then assembled with only Titebond 2. I recently purchased a biscuit joiner and now use it for everything. It makes for a very strong joint and is very simple to use.

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That is all for tonight. Please feel free to add any suggestions or recommendations. More pics will come tomorrow.
 
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I'll be watching this one tsloms. I have all the fixin's for a pair of these less the horns and compression drivers. :thmbsp:

RC
 
I'l be watching as well. I picked up a NIB 2226 the other day. Need to get one more and then I'll start my own ewave build.
 
Very nice work.If you have not purchased the 1/4"for the sides yet you may want to consider using 3/4" kerf kore material and covering it with Birch veneer.The kerf kore will conform to a radius as tight as 4" so it would work well on your cabinet contour.The material can be seen at kerf kore.com.I have used this for a few years with great success.If you choose to purchase and use this let me know if i can answer any questions about its application.
 
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Tsloms, this could be a very cool thread.. keep going! Looks like a beautiful design too.

One thing I don't see is any Dadoes or Rabbets for the braces, top and bottom. As big as this cabinet is going to be, it seems like that would help solidify the cabinet with minimal trouble.

You have me wanting to join in with a similar build...
 
Thanks for the kind words guys.

Mike, I was planning on using the 1/4" Birch ply so that I could still have an exposed Birch edge that I could stain. Also I am only planning on using the 1/4" on both sides to build up to a 3/4" thick side. The sides have a radius of 39.25" so it will not be difficult to bend around it.

Cosmos, I have never cut any dadoes or rabbets in any enclosures which I built. There is no doubt that they would add more strength but I will be putting in plenty of biscuits so I don't think that strength should be an issue. These are my first horn speaker build so it should be interesting.

I was thinking of flush mounting both the horn and the woofer. Will this adversely affect the response of the drivers? I am just looking to clean up the front of the enclosure a bit. Note that I will be doubling up the thickness of the front baffle behind the woofer.
 
Flush mount all the way!!!!
I can't answer the question about response... but flush mounts just make things look so professional.

I have seen several build pictures with drivers mounted behind the baffles. I didn't like those as much.
 
Very nice work.If you have not purchased the 1/4"for the sides yet you may want to consider using 3/4" kerf kore material and covering it with Birch veneer.
Only if you fill the kerfs.

I was thinking of flush mounting both the horn and the woofer. Will this adversely affect the response of the drivers?
Flush is better. Any edge is a diffracton source.... :yes:
 
I was thinking of flush mounting both the horn and the woofer. Will this adversely affect the response of the drivers? I am just looking to clean up the front of the enclosure a bit. Note that I will be doubling up the thickness of the front baffle behind the woofer.

Doubling up on the baffle could be a cool idea..

1. If you cut a pieces 1 1/2" narrower than your baffle (3/4" inset each side) you could use it as a shoulder for your side pieces with the ribs, shoulder and back being your support for the curved panels.

2. Additionally, if you cut it into 3 pieces lengthwise, it could also become the rabbet and dado for your ribs.. and lock everything in place.

3. 1 1/2" baffle is also great as it gives you depth to flush mount easily..
 
[This had better work.... ;) ]


I heard a slug of these at the Fest. Some were :dunno:"ok", but many sounded pretty darn nice. Lots of set up variables in these rooms to fight though. Overall, I was pretty impressed :thmbsp:



RC
 
I dont know anything about curved boxes, but that driver in that size box with that tuning I do know about! It was my first E'wave variation. It Will kick ass. That you can be sure of.

Russellc
 
This is a cool project, and I like the pictures of how it's getting done. Reminds me of this:
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=17238&highlight=backyard


Zilch-With the kerf side to the inside no filling is necessary.

But, if you filled the kerf side with plenty of 'something' then curved it on installation and let it harden you'd have a pretty nifty self damped panel! What the 'something' should be I don't know. Epoxy? Construction adhesive? Silicone? Window putty? :scratch2:
 
Zilch-With the kerf side to the inside no filling is necessary.
It'd be nice if that were the case, but it's not; you end up with the equivalent of a thin-wall cabinet in the one direction. Best Buy Insignias are built that way, and it was the first "issue" tweakers went after. Mr. Widget on LHF built laminated-layer curved cabs, and could not mitigate the resonances, even though they sounded dead to a knuckle rap.

But, if you filled the kerf side with plenty of 'something' then curved it on installation and let it harden you'd have a pretty nifty self damped panel! What the 'something' should be I don't know. Epoxy? Construction adhesive? Silicone? Window putty? :scratch2:
I have looked at construction adhesives, and found some slower-drying ones which seem like they would work. "Slather" describes the process, which you do before forming, remove the excess, and laminate with a thin panel on the kerf side.

There's lots of DIY buzz about damped laminate structures, and some TOTL JBLs are made that way, so it's quite likely a worthy pursuit.... :thmbsp:
 
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Zilch-I am not saying i dont agree with what you are saying but i am not quite sure what you mean by"thin -wall cabinet in one direction".I can tell you that i have built hundreds of cabinets of many different configurations (not speaker cabinets)with the kerf material and it can be very solid if proper internal bracing is used.You gain considerable rigidity when you apply laminate or veneer to this material.
 
I heard a slug of these at the Fest. Some were :dunno:"ok", but many sounded pretty darn nice. Lots of set up variables in these rooms to fight though. Overall, I was pretty impressed :thmbsp:



RC

Room variables. The rooms at the Fest seemed to favor speakers with limited output below 100 hz. The rooms made minis sound like full range and made some big speakers sound really boomy. I heard several system at the Fest that I was very familiar with (Keggers, the ESSWaves) and the bass balance sounded way heavier in the Fest rooms.
The ewave systems at the Fest gave an impression of what the waveguide and driver can do on top but were not the last word in fullrange performance due t othe room.
OTOH, it was a good place to be Whiplash Audio, whose 1/2 cu ft minis sounded like they had really good bottom end balance in those rooms.
 
Well, my cabinets don't look anywhere nearly as nice as Tsloms but they do have JBL 2226 woofers in them. Note the use of Zilch-plugs.

I'm not one for woodworking but would love to make up come nice cabinets for the Econowave horn as well as the monster-sized 2445J/2380 horns you see on the floor - a 2" throat setup.

Perhaps some day. The econowave project is on hold right now until I find new permanent quarters.

Cheers,

David
 

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