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Yamaha PF-1000 - looking for parts (cueing solenoid)

D

dherrick

Member
I have a Yamaha PF-1000 TT that I have had since new and its in generally excellent shape. I have ordered a new belt and will replace the cartridge shortly.

It does work, however I do have an issue. The cueing mechanism has ceased working. I have removed the tonearm and noticed that the lift has leaked its oil. I have ordered a new one of those, however I believe that I also have an issue with the lifting solenoid. It does not raise the lifter when actuated.

I have looked everywhere I can find online for a new one and all parts vendors show it as No Longer Available. The service manual states it as a TDS-10S.

Anyone have an idea where I might be able to get one or a substitute solenoid. I have found a Ledex B20M that dimensionally appears close, however I do not know the voltage of the TDS -10S. Anyone have any experience in this area and can offer some advice.

If I can get the cueing working the PF-1000 will be as good as new.

Thanks in advance
 
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It's not oil that leaked out. It's thick dampening fluid. It's not sealed, you just take the post out, coat in the dampening fluid then reinstall and should be good for another 20 years.

As far as the solenoid goes. I checked on parts about 5 years ago When I owned 2 PF-800's and a PF-1000. Was looking for an arm, cover and some other things. Was told at the time no parts existed anymore

On the solenoid, measure the coil with an ohm meter. should read very low like another other coil. Next if it's open measure for voltage to the coil when you press the queue button. May not be the solenoid, but the control circuit. Also make sure that is is not physically binding and can move freely.
 
Check the mechanical layout-if it functions like the PXs, the coil is energized to let the tonearm fall and when power is cut, it is at it's at-rest/arm up/unpowered state.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I just put a meter on the solenoid and measured 10V when pushing the cueing button and 30 ohms across the solenoid. Nothing is binding mechanically, everything is moving freely.
 
"The solenoid's resistance is 31 ohms; when commanded to lower, the voltage at the solenoid goes to 16v, and falls over a 10s period to 8.2VDC" Re: PX-2
linear tracing tonearm.
Assuming it work the same (a pretty safe assumption in that if it didn't, turning off or unplugging the unit would drop the arm and the solenoid would need to be powered always when the turntable was not running)-then it seems something is mechanically stuck. On the PX-2: "In the top of the tonearm housing, parallel to one another is the tonearm solenoid and the tonearm damper. They are linked together by a U shaped plastic matrix that straddles the arm stanchion. When the solenoid is activated, it pulls this piece down, slowed by the damper piston. The tonearm rests on this piece, but is unconnected." If it is similar to the PX, the solenoid pulls on this supporting link, it's pull damped by the brass damper/piston assy, and resisted by a very weak spring mounted coaxially on the protruding shaft of the damper piston. I was able to loosen mine up by hooking an L shaped machinist's scribe into the roll pin in the piston rod and stroking it back and forth while keeping the shaft wet with CRC. (look in Viny Engine, turntable forum: Post subject: Yamaha PX 3 turntable: arm movement erratic) Sounds like the arm cuing mechanism is stuck in the down position. Phil
 
Thanks for your feedback. It does sound like the mechanism is similar to that you have described. I have attached a couple of photos to illustrate what's going on in the PF1000.

The solenoid pulls on the black plastic lever. It overcomes the springs tension and lowers the black plastic piece away from the silver shaft, which is the damped shaft to the lifter. Once the plastic piece is pulled away from the shaft it slowly extends thereby lowering the tonearm support

If I manually push the solenoid closed the mechanism seems to work fine. It appears that the solenoid is just not functioning when voltage is applied. One thing I note is that I only get voltage to the solenoid when the button pushed and there appears to be no voltage measured otherwise.
 

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The picture is pretty clear. Pretty weird that it doesn't work when powered.
The solenoid is very similar to the PX solenoids in appearance, voltage provided, resistance, and function. If it moves freely, I can only think of two reasons it doesn't work-the metal slug inside has seperated from the pull-rod or the power has become AC (or reversed polarity DC? I don't think it would matter unless the slug was a magnet, but anything is possible). Do you hear any kind of click when it is energized?
 
I put 12 V across the solenoid to test it and determined that it was indeed working. The problem was that it was not getting voltage from the TT.

After some disassembly and testing, I figured out that the cueing switch was not working. I ended up cleaning the cueing switch with some contact cleaner and it now works. I just need to reload the mechanism with some cueing fluid. That a new belt and cartridge and it'll be as good as new. :yippy:

Thanks for your help.
 
Punker X, - you mentioned before about removing the cueing post to add silicone fluid. Could you tell me that post is removed? I'm assuming that I have to remove the cueing mechanism from the arm itself.

thanks
 
Normally, you don't "add cuing fluid." You take the cuing mechanism apart, and clean out all the old fluid thoroughly. Then you install LOTS of new fluid, wipe off the excess and reassemble the gizmo.

Fred
 
Been a few years since I've seen a PF-800/1000. If remember correctly you there a set screw on the queue shaft to remove the part the arm rests on. Once that is off you can pull that shaft out. . Just wipe it clean coat it in the fluid and reinstall.
 
So I do not need to remove the whole mechanism from the arm to disassemble? I can remove the arm lift from the top to remove the shaft to relube?

I was thinking that I had to remove the whole assembly by loosening the set screw on the side and removing the bracket underneath but if its as simple as just pulling the shaft out from the top, that would be a lot easier.

I've attached a photo from above to hopefully refresh your memory.
Thanks for your help.

BTW if you look at the previously posted photos of the underside of the arm you'll see that some of the screws are coated with a red substance, presumably to keep them from coming loose. Do you know what that substance is and what removes it so that the screws can be removed.
 

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Looking at it again. Still have to remove the arm rest. Then the spring on the lever underneath and post drops down once the lever is out of the way. I can remember it being a PIA.
 
I did manage to get the mechanism out and Mike, you are right it was a bit of a pain.

Just waiting on my damping fluid to show up and reassemble. Thanks to everyone for their advice and assitance.
 
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