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Tube Power Supplies a Different Approach!

SET12

Super Member
Good morning everyone!

I thought I might discuss a different approach to power design. :scratch2:

Some may regard the following opinions as very controversial :nono: others may find it very enlightening :yes:

So I thought I might post this thread in the DIY section, but I often see 3 times more people on line here and since I see people talking about console amps and mods to them along with Dyna mods I thought I'd post my thread here :smoke:

I have discussed some of my views with a few people but never in a dedicated thread. I started writing about these views in another thread but there is a lot to say so I thought its about time for a little discussion.

So I'd like to start out small sort to speak about a very easy mod to a Pilot 240 integrated that I converted to a power amp with a modification to its supply along with a few other goodies. Some on this forum may have already seen it. But its a good start and a simple one at that.

Heres the amp, and the story begins by this statement

The 100 Ohm power resistor is power supply restricting


Don%27s%20Amp.jpg


Since the amp is Push-Pull it naturally cancels noise. Since it does this you might consider removing the resistor and just tying the two cap sections together that are connected to the rectifier and the output transformers.

You should be pleasantly surprised at just how much more dynamic the amp will be.

This was my first experience with my buddy who is a former musician yet loves music enough to go see Jazz and Classical concerts several nights a week.

When I first did this I just put a Radio Shack jumper across it to listen to it. I knew the worst that might happen is I might hear an increase in noise. But I had a couple hundred uf's there which was double of the stock supply. And as I said we listened to it and our jaws were on the floor from the dynamics alone and of course the was sweet and even more informative. The whole amp was so much more involving like toe tapping instead of slow weakish and to some extent a little boring in contrast to the 100 ohm being in the circuit!

Some would say, oh! that's hard on the rectifier! Well the amp uses a 5AR4 slow turn rectifier as it is. The amp above has been running on 3-400uf that I can remember now for 10yrs plus and has had no issues at all in fact all of the tubes are still 100%

There are other amplifiers that do this, such as the legendary EICO HF81 an EL84 Integrated amp as the Pilot.

The EICO will very likely run circles around a stock Pilot 240 IMO. But! with the Pilot's supply set up like the EICO the Pilot likely would pull ahead IMO as it has very,very good output iron even better than the Pilot console amps that many people have on this forum. My buddy who owns the above amp owns two Pilot console amps and their iron is not in the same league IHO, but the consoles are still nice IHO. I haven't heard the HF81 but I have its schematic, and I don't think the HF81 output iron is quite in the same class as the Pilot 240.

My buddy bought his Pilot for maybe $150 brought it home fired it up and was severely disappointed. It had what is referred to as knob disease meaning the controls were noisy and not tracking well for left-right balance along with selector switch issues not to mention all the switches and lengthy signal paths. I had a schematic and saw a simple and sensitive power amp. I wired it direct in the chassis and called him to listen to it! He was thrilled! though his wife did not like its looks so we made it look good by pulling the iron repainting the iron gloss piano black he got some brass and had a metal shop cut the holes. He made a simple walnut wood skirt and copper bottom plate. I redesigned the layout which made the amp substantially quieter. It was one of my favorite projects that I ever under took. Some say the EL84 is the best of all Pentodes and it wasn't until hearing the amp drive my buddy's $6000 Dunlevy 4's that I understood literally the legend of the EL84 or the Pilot for that matter.

Cheers

SET12
 
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Nice choice of amps. Thank you. When I get to my Pilot 240 I'll be digesting all this information.
 
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Just to make sure I understand, you're recommending eliminating an RC filter and bumping up the cap by 10x over max ratings.
 
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isnt the purpose of large (wattage) resistors in the power supply side usually to keep the rectifier tube happy? something about the charging peaks on the 60hz waveform can exceed the current capability of the tube and cause it to prematurely fail because you are trying to charge in a short time? at least thats how it was explained to me.

if you go with a large solidstate bridge dont you essentially do away with this limitation up until you start popping fuses from initial surge when you first turn the amp on?
 
Nice choice of amps. Thank you.

Archie2 good of you to drop by. And yes it is a great sounding amp. I'd just like to say thanks for getting me going on this topic! It's bound to be informative!



Just to make sure I understand, your recommending eliminating an RC filter and bumping up the cap by 10x over max ratings.

I was waiting for someone to ask that! :lurk:

So lets answer this piece by piece.

So do I recommend eliminating an RC filter in a PP amplifier that has its output stage running from a cap that is fed from a 100 ohm power resistor like this Pilot supply?

View attachment 174251

Yes, providing the B+ is still manageable.

Like here in this EICOHF81



"And bumping up the cap by 10x over max ratings"

Which ratings? you mean total capacitance? Like could a 5AR4 rectifier handle a 1000uf's? It sure can as long as its a NOS 5AR4 as the latest branded 5AR4's don't meet the slow turn spec. and would arc right over.

The key to using more capacitance is slow turn on or with some resistance in series with for a fixed amount of time.

Now here's where things get fun :D

Some would say, oh! that's hard on the rectifier! Well the amp uses a 5AR4 slow turn rectifier as it is. The Pilot amp above has been running on 3-400uf that I can remember now for 10yrs plus and has had no issues at all in fact all of the tubes are still 100% and if people think that's hard, my own monoblock SET amps pictured in my avatar are running 1800uf @ 500 VDC each and I use no resistors in my supply path just SS diodes to drop noise over so my DCR is nothing but the power transformer which make the amps (unbelievably fast and powerful [there is more to this which I well explain]) and yeah that's a strain that has cost me 10% of the slow turn on GZ37 rectifiers life over a 5 yr period I do this because I'm interested in pure performance not getting 20-30 yrs out of a rectifier. Hell I'll likely be dead so I want to hear it now! So the couple hundred uf's you have is not really an issue in my experience.

may we see the amp/power supl. schematic?

Here's the Pilot basic amplifier circuit.

View attachment 174252

I can see I have a line of people waiting for explanations!

I do have to get some sleep but I'll be back as often as I can, I do work nights. I may be up early in the A.M. hrs as I sometimes can't sleep at night so stay tunned


Cheers

SET12
 
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There's no resistor in the B+ supply of the Eico to eliminate. I'd opt for a low resistance choke to replace the 100 ohm resistor in the Pilot. If you found something in the 25 ohm range then the B+ voltage swing from quiescent current to max current would be about 0.5v. As a bonus you get less ripple and no chance of frying a non-NOS high zoot rectifier.

I must be doing the math wrong because on the Pilot schematic it looks like the tube is dissipating over 15w. Is that right?
 
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I have two almost-identical GE amplifiers, one that takes the B+ straight from the first cap, and another that I modified to add an additional filter stage with a 50R resistor and 100uF cap. I prefer the latter, it sounds much cleaner. The first one is a bit "faster" / "ballsier", since it sags ~10% less, but eliminating some of that power supply noise, and increasing decoupling, really cleaned things up. So, my preference is somewhat opposite. However, I think if you filter the crap out of everything but B+, and have bias/balance controls, then a single-stage filter can work very well indeed!

BTW, install an inrush current limiter, or your 5AR4 will arc over the first time it gets power cycled while hot. The slow start doesn't work if it is already warm, and a quick power outage could be a $100 instant loss. My non-vintage 5AR4s arc with 60uF caps when power-cycled.
 
Actualy ,the limiting factor for current is the rectifer tube and the power transformer ,use a toroid and solid state rectification to gain more current and then add all the caps you want .The amp i'm building has a one amp toroid per channel for the B+ and and 1,400 mfd for the first cap , five times the current the output can draw .
 
Actualy ,the limiting factor for current is the rectifer tube and the power transformer ,use a toroid and solid state rectification to gain more current and then add all the caps you want

QFT. Not necessarily using a toroid (it's not mandatory to do so), but simply start out with a clean slate... heavy transformer of whatever appropriate type, good solid-state rectification (Schottky diodes preferable), a good choke, and as much cap as you can stand.

But, to do this with an existing amp? What if the amp is "voiced" around the power supply as it is? Are you prepared to modify the rest of the amp, when it doesn't "sound right" anymore?

I'm a little leery of going this radical in an existing amp. That's what custom-builds are for...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Interesting thread. To me, power supplies are very important, and one of the best places to get "bang for your bucks" from simple mods. The only place I ever use a resistor is for the front end B+ where current demands are small. Low resistance chokes are the answer for me. Most of my power supply thinking is pretty much off the wall, so I won't go into it.
 
That's what custom-builds are for...

Exactly. After futzing around with a bunch of amps I had a revelation one day that maybe I should just get them back into operation spec and enjoy them for what they are instead of trying to "improve" them to death.

Starting from a clean sheet allows complete freedom and although it's completely out of fashion I like SS rectifiers, chokes, and big oversized power transformers.
 
Exactly. After futzing around with a bunch of amps I had a revelation one day that maybe I should just get them back into operation spec and enjoy them for what they are instead of trying to "improve" them to death.

Starting from a clean sheet allows complete freedom and although it's completely out of fashion I like SS rectifiers, chokes, and big oversized power transformers.

Those things are very fashionable here. I look at Mullard 5AR4s, and see a whole bag of Cree Schottky diodes.
 
Those things are very fashionable here. I look at Mullard 5AR4s, and see a whole bag of Cree Schottky diodes.

If the guys that designed the truly classic tube gear had our choices in diodes I doubt many would have opted for tube rectification. Then again...how many would opt for tubes at all?
 
If the guys that designed the truly classic tube gear had our choices in diodes I doubt many would have opted for tube rectification. Then again...how many would opt for tubes at all?

Hmm, that last line made me think.:D When I can buy a diode with "0" recovery time, 10amps current capacity, and 1200vpi for 10 dollars, that pretty much makes my mind up. I can understand how some folks want to use tubes, and that's cool too, I just ask myself what I need the supply to do, and sand wins out nearly every time. Sometimes the 5v filament winding can be used for other stuff, like relays or LEDs, but even if you just leave it capped off, you are taking "some" load off the TX, and that's usually a good thing when using iron out of commercial stuff. As for big inrush with SS supplies using loads of capacitance, a CL 90 is very affordable and works great. I'm looking over at the amp on my bench right now, and it has 9400uf sitting on top of the chassis. It is definitely getting 10 amp diodes and a CL 90 in front of the PT.
 
For your consideration is this supply for my 300b amps. Set helped me out with this one, works fine.
300B%20power%20supply%20.jpg
 
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