Pioneer pl-400 Anybody have one?

superdog

AK Member
Just wondering about thoughts or comments on this tt.Picked up a thrift job for $17.Scratched dust cover and an AT cart works but replays itself after each play.Is the AT the original type cart?
 
Most new Pioneer turntable comes with a Pioneer brand cartridge. A rebadged ones most likely, the PL-400 would have a Pioneer PC-150 cartridge. Which AT cartridge does it have now? The repeat button may need some cleaning internally.
 
The AT is a replacement. Pioneer had their own line of carts they put on them. Carts were Mediocre at best. Part was PC-150.

The table is Middle of the line for that series. Even the 200(BOTL) is a decent deck, at least mine is. I don't know about the 400 but the 200 is prone to speed issues due to a dirty speed pot. Once you get the speed pot cleaned up, it's stable almost as good as a quartz lock, even tho it isn't.

Vinyl engine has the PL-400 owners manual. You should be able to fix the repeat problem. The repeat switch is more than likely gummed up. The grease is probably like the La Brea Tar Pits by now. Clean it good inside and lube. I've got the 200 and use the 400 manual. Not too much difference between them except for the repeat and record size features for Auto start which the 200 doesn't have.

The next series IIRC is the PL-2 to PL-9. I have PL-4, which would be equivalent to the 200 in features. BUT! The PL-4 is such a lightweight compared to the 200. The platter is 1/3 the weight, the total weight is about 1/3. The top plate/cover in the PL-4 is thinner plastic, the gimbel for the tonearm is cheesy, and the whole thing looks like a kids toy.

I'd keep the PL-400. It's dependable, can take most any cart, (I have anywhere from a 400V.3 Pickering, 500 Stanton/Pickering, V15 Pickerings, V-15-III SHURE, M55 Shure.) and it's decent looking to boot. But if you ever want to get rid of it, I'll be 1st in line! :D


Larry
 
The AT is a replacement. Pioneer had their own line of carts they put on them. Carts were Mediocre at best. Part was PC-150.

The table is Middle of the line for that series. Even the 200(BOTL) is a decent deck, at least mine is. I don't know about the 400 but the 200 is prone to speed issues due to a dirty speed pot. Once you get the speed pot cleaned up, it's stable almost as good as a quartz lock, even tho it isn't.

Vinyl engine has the PL-400 owners manual. You should be able to fix the repeat problem. The repeat switch is more than likely gummed up. The grease is probably like the La Brea Tar Pits by now. Clean it good inside and lube. I've got the 200 and use the 400 manual. Not too much difference between them except for the repeat and record size features for Auto start which the 200 doesn't have.

The next series IIRC is the PL-2 to PL-9. I have PL-4, which would be equivalent to the 200 in features. BUT! The PL-4 is such a lightweight compared to the 200. The platter is 1/3 the weight, the total weight is about 1/3. The top plate/cover in the PL-4 is thinner plastic, the gimbel for the tonearm is cheesy, and the whole thing looks like a kids toy.

I'd keep the PL-400. It's dependable, can take most any cart, (I have anywhere from a 400V.3 Pickering, 500 Stanton/Pickering, V15 Pickerings, V-15-III SHURE, M55 Shure.) and it's decent looking to boot. But if you ever want to get rid of it, I'll be 1st in line! :D


Larry

Thanks for the info.I'll check out the Vinyl Engine for the manual.Will it show me how to access the gummed up switch?It's much heavier than it appears which tells me quality.
 
I still have my PL-400 that I purchased new in high school. My daughter uses it now. It still works fine, and has never had any issues. I have a Stanton 681-EEES cartridge on mine. The PL-400 is a quartz-locked TT.
 
Just wondering about thoughts or comments on this tt.Picked up a thrift job for $17.Scratched dust cover and an AT cart works but replays itself after each play.Is the AT the original type cart?

Hi, I have one that is doing the same thing. I opened mine up and it looks like there is a bushing or something worn out.:scratch2:

Let me know how you make out.

Thanks,
John.:music::D
 
On the gear UNDER the motor, there is a slide that engages the spindle to start the repeat/cut cycle. This slide gums up over the years. Get it apart and spray it with WD-40 to break it loose, make sure it's free, and spray a couple drops of machine oil on the slide. Also the long bent aluminum pivot rod, which actuates the slide from the tonearm area, will gum up and hang in the engaged position.

Free these two up and I think 90% of your problems will go away.

Larry
 
I'm using a PL-400 in my second system with an AT-13eA. It, and the PL-400X I used to have, have been very satisfactory. I never had a lick of trouble from either one. My only quibble would be that they are fairly "jog sensitive". They require careful isolation from vibration.

Note: this may vary significantly from one unit to another. The PL-400 I still have is nowhere near as sensitive as the PL-400X I no longer have. That being said, neither was unacceptable.

John
 
My main TT is a PL-400. I bought it about a year ago, and have not had any issues with it. I think this is a great intro TT for someone that wants to get into vinyl. Easy to use and set-up.
 
Thanks for the input.It appears it is a decent table.Like I said when I picked it up I said "oh yeah".P.Shivers statement about buying in high school and never any issues.Wow!I am going to the VE for the manual.Need to find my password.Just one more question on this.How do you access the problem areas.Under the platter or underneath?Thanks.
 
Underneath.

TAKE THE CARTRIDGE OFF BEFORE ATTEMPTING BELOW!!!!!

1.Remove the Tonearm Weight.
2.remove the Tonearm weight shaft (3mm hex wrench).
3.Flip over and remove the 4 feet. DON'T Mix them up. Keep orientation same. Fron Left to Front Left, etc.
4.Flip back over and lift front up just enough to undo the 2 pin and 5 pin eectrical connectors. Disconnect the strain relief for the L& R RCA's. Slide leads out of the slot in the bottom.
5. Continue lift from the front and start sliding the top forward to clear the tonearm.
6. Flip the top upside down and set aside on a towel for now.
7. Looking at the motor board you'll see a bunch of screws on the perimeter. Find the one's with the larger heads (3). They will be at about 1,5,and 9 oclock on the board. They will be about 2-1/2" long. If you get a short one put it back in. Once you get the 3 large ones out, lift the motor board up and forward.
8.) The main gear is accessable now. You'll see a stamped metal assy on the gear and a "V" or checkmark shaped "ACTUATOR" arm going to the right and under the tonearm assy.
These two are what i was talking about earlier. clean and lube.

You will need to remove the tonearm assy to remove the actuator arm. 3 screws again, 10,1,and 6 oclock. Note the off / on switch cam and actuator pin on the tonearm assy how it fits together. If this is NOT put back exactly as pulled out, it will not turn off and the tonearm will jam up.

It sounds worse that it actually is. It's rather easy. Just lay out everything in order and if you're not sure about something take a couple of pictures before taking it apart.

Larry
 
Underneath.

TAKE THE CARTRIDGE OFF BEFORE ATTEMPTING BELOW!!!!!

1.Remove the Tonearm Weight.
2.remove the Tonearm weight shaft (3mm hex wrench).
3.Flip over and remove the 4 feet. DON'T Mix them up. Keep orientation same. Fron Left to Front Left, etc.
4.Flip back over and lift front up just enough to undo the 2 pin and 5 pin eectrical connectors. Disconnect the strain relief for the L& R RCA's. Slide leads out of the slot in the bottom.
5. Continue lift from the front and start sliding the top forward to clear the tonearm.
6. Flip the top upside down and set aside on a towel for now.
7. Looking at the motor board you'll see a bunch of screws on the perimeter. Find the one's with the larger heads (3). They will be at about 1,5,and 9 oclock on the board. They will be about 2-1/2" long. If you get a short one put it back in. Once you get the 3 large ones out, lift the motor board up and forward.
8.) The main gear is accessable now. You'll see a stamped metal assy on the gear and a "V" or checkmark shaped "ACTUATOR" arm going to the right and under the tonearm assy.
These two are what i was talking about earlier. clean and lube.

You will need to remove the tonearm assy to remove the actuator arm. 3 screws again, 10,1,and 6 oclock. Note the off / on switch cam and actuator pin on the tonearm assy how it fits together. If this is NOT put back exactly as pulled out, it will not turn off and the tonearm will jam up.

It sounds worse that it actually is. It's rather easy. Just lay out everything in order and if you're not sure about something take a couple of pictures before taking it apart.

Larry

Hi Larry,

I am working on mine now, is this pin supposed to look like this?

Thanks,
John
 
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How about an uncropped pic.

Actually it's plastic. If you look under the tonearm, you see and "X" shaped affair with a pin pointing straight down off to the left of the tonearm at about 9:00. It fit's into a "V" shaped rotating switch actuator that turns the power switch off and on. The pin moves in an arc with the tonearm. It moves from 9:00 to about 12:00. When the tonearm returns it will end up in the "V" and rotate the "V" which will engage the switch shutting the power OFF.

LARRY.
 
How about an uncropped pic.

Actually it's plastic. If you look under the tonearm, you see and "X" shaped affair with a pin pointing straight down off to the left of the tonearm at about 9:00. It fit's into a "V" shaped rotating switch actuator that turns the power switch off and on. The pin moves in an arc with the tonearm. It moves from 9:00 to about 12:00. When the tonearm returns it will end up in the "V" and rotate the "V" which will engage the switch shutting the power OFF.

LARRY.

Hi, 1st off thanks for the help. Here is another picture, looks like a metal lever.

Thanks,
John.:music::D
 
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Ok that looks like the power switch actuator. It's different than on the 200. You are gonna have to dig deeper to access the cycle mechanism.

See the yellowish gear in the back, under the motor? That's where you need to get. Looks like 4-5 scres to get the tonearm housing off, then 3-4 to get the motor off.

Then take another pic to post up so I can see what you have.

Larry
 
Ok that looks like the power switch actuator. It's different than on the 200. You are gonna have to dig deeper to access the cycle mechanism.

See the yellowish gear in the back, under the motor? That's where you need to get. Looks like 4-5 scres to get the tonearm housing off, then 3-4 to get the motor off.

Then take another pic to post up so I can see what you have.

Larry

Thanks,
Will Do..:thmbsp:

John.:music::D
 
Just wanted to say I found out there is nothing wrong with this tt.I thought it was repeating itself.Turns out I was using the start/repeat button to turn it on.Sorry but I am still learning about tts.I was hesitant to take apart as I don't know and never tore into one as much as what was recommended to fix.Works perfect and sounds very good.
 
Hello!
I just got one of these from a thrift store for 15 dollars. It has a problem with maintaining speed. About every 5-15 seconds it slows down for around 1 second. Other than that, it works fine.

I took it apart and sprayed deoxit into the speed select switch and worked it about 200 times. I didn't really see any other mechanical switches or pots to clean.

I do have one problem when putting it back together. Please see attached picture (copied from jleon). I don't know where to attach the part that with the red square around it. Can somebody help me out with this, please?

Thanks!
 

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did you take that part off

Did you take that part off or off of something? If not it looks like a plastic swing with tenson spring. Well whatever it is called and when you place it back together. Hopefully it will fall into the right place. Like a reed sensor or something.

Josh
 
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