DIY speaker cable question

I'm getting ready to build some speaker cables using CAT5e wire. I plan to use 3 CAT5 cables braided together. That should make sufficient gauge. What I wonder about is the need for proper termination to prevent ultra-sonic ringing (and associated catastrophic failure of amp) due to capacitance of the cables. I found a reference to proper termination in an article: Speaker Cables Science or Snake Oil Article by Pass; found near bottom of page at this link:
http://www.jordan-usa.com/technicalpaper.html

What do you experts think?

Thanks, Jim

Maybe I need to expand on this a bit to get a reply:

I'm getting ready to build some speaker cables using CAT5e wire. I plan to use 3 CAT5 cables braided together. That should make sufficient gauge. What I wonder about is the need for proper termination to prevent ultra-sonic ringing (and associated catastrophic failure of amp) due to capacitance of the cables. I found a reference to proper termination in an article: Speaker Cables Science or Snake Oil Article by Pass; found near bottom of page at this link:
Technical Papers

Matt Polk used .047 uF cap and 6 ohm R in series placed across the speaker terminals; Nelson Pass used .1 uF cap and 5 ohm R.

I know little about electronics. Should I add this termination to the CAT5 cables? What do you experts think?

Thanks, Jim
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Hi Jim,

It may depend on the amplifier you choose. If you have a highly capacitive cable and an amp with heavy negative feedback, then you might have issues. I've seen an amp go into oscillation or ringing before and an RC snubber helped calm it. Unless you have problems, you probably don't need it. My amp has no global negative feedback and doesn't have any problems with my CAT5 based cables.

Regards,
John

"What do you experts think? "
Experts?
Did you check their papers,Jim?
C'mon...experts?
I don't know about that.
I'm just saying.
I didn't check any papers.
And you didn't check any papers.
Soooo...well...lets see what they got.

Hi John,

Thanks. I have mostly '70s SS receivers, but a couple new amps too:

Sansui 350A
Sansui 40000
Yamaha CR-1000
Sonic Impact T-amp (gen 2)
MiniWatt (2.5 wpc tube amp, I think run in Ultra Linear mode)

I have heard that the issue only comes up if the amp has some very large band-width, but what I know about this is next to nothing. I don't know if there is some sort of warning sign before the magic smoke appears. So I'm trying to learn the cheap way--spending time asking questions, as opposed to smokin' an amp and spending lots of $$ to fix a stupid mistake.

Asking about using the T-amp with a subwoofer--and finding out that there is a trick to doing it-- saved me from disaster before. So pardon the dumb questions, but I know that there is stuff I need to learn!

Cheers, Jim

My DIY speaker cable ..................


Parts

Belden RJ45 CAT-5e Crossover Cable - Ebay
WBT 0800 Silver Solder 4% Silver - Parts Express
Techflex 1/2" Expandable Sleeving - Parts Express
Heat Shrink - Home Depot or Lowe's
Nakamichi banana Plug -Ebay
Scotch Super Vinyl Electrical Tape (Red and Black)- Home Depot

Tools

Knife - Auto parts ,Home Depot ,Lowe's etc
Heat Gun (air) - Lowe's ,Parts Express etc
Linemans Pliers - Home Depot ,Sears ,Auto Parts etc

note : never cut CAT-5e with Wire Stripper,the best choice is with knife and Heat Gun.













Links Reference

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/cables/diy-speaker-cable-faceoff

http://www.avforums.com/forums/home-cinema-diy/954188-diy-cat5e-speaker-cable.html

http://www.platenspeler.com/diy/cabling/uk_4play_1.html




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http://translate.google.com/transla...com/pcpfiles/doc_altavoces/cables/cables.html

............The electrons are pushed to the outside of the driver.

The delays in changing the magnetic field pushes the charges outside the conductor. This reduces the effective area of the conductor to a small part.

You can avoid a very simple way: with cables that have more surface and to maintain constant current density. This leads to flat cables. There are few cables as well. The other option is to use thin wires, because in them are produced much higher frequencies. This is the snake biting its tail, because you avoid this effect, but the series resistance increases, and according to my experience, the series resistance is aggravated by interacting with other parasitic effects. The solution to these two problems together is to use many thin wires, so depending on the topology can be used to increase the capacity to unite them.



:thmbsp:




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