Unity Horns

dnewma04

The Healer
About 10 years ago, I heard a set of speakers that pretty well changed my opinions on everything I knew about speakers. Prior to hearing them, I was convinced that cone/dome speakers were the way to go. I had heard plenty of horns over the prior 10 or so years, never really hearing one that really did it for me. I found them a bit honky, shouty, or just plain ear splitting. Many of those I heard were very well respected, and many did some things very well. They never ran short on dynamics for instance, which is a huge plus in their favor, but none of them excited me much. Klipschorns, Lascalas, Edgar Horn Titans, old Altecs, and even some front and back loaded horns using dreadful drivers like Lowthers.

At the time, I was a member of the basslist and Thomas Danley introduced the unity horn, and offered it to the basslist via Nick McKinney at Lambda Acoustics. There was a an enormous amount of interest on the list with quite a few people springing for the kit and being amazed by the results. From that moment, I decided I needed to hear a set. Luckily, within about a year, I was able to hear one pair and about 6 months after that I heard another 2 pairs. Two of them used Lambda Acoustics TD series drivers (the others used TAD 1601 woofers), which were already a favorite of mine and these speakers cemented those feelings.

After hearing the Unity's, I had finally heard what I had always hoped to with horns, no odd colorations. They sounded like cone/domes at low volume levels and as you turned the volume up, they just kept on sounding like that. Very smooth, extremely detailed, and even at very very loud levels, there wasn't a hint of compression. I was hooked, they had dynamics, detail, and smoothness?! The basic idea of the unity horn was to create a 2 way horn system with the mids and highs sharing the same horn. The Compression driver is attached at the back of the throat and the mids get attached on the walls of the horn and are placed in such a way that the horn acts as a point source from 300hz up to the frequency limits of the compression driver. In the case of the Lambda Unity horns, they were square conical horns, but the unity principals can apply to other flare rates, as well. The lambdas used a 60x60 flare to near the outer edge where it transitioned to a 90x90 horn near the terminus. It's a constant directivity horn, as well.

I started to do some research and even attempted a few builds, but never had the tools to really do the job right and make the horns decent. A few months ago, Nick decided to sell off some B-stock sides for the unity horns for a good price so I decided to jump on the opportunity.

I was able to figure out the size and placement of the entry holes for the midrange and started to work out a method to drill them consistently.

I will be getting into more of the theory behind the horn sometime down the road, but for now, this is just going to be a build thread. One is mostly assembled and awaits many coats of paint, lots of filler material, and a crapload of sanding. In any case, here are some pics of the progress so far. Unfortunately, being B-Stock items, they take a ridiculous amount of work to get them done. None of the parts really quite fit together right.


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Dave,
I have just started reseaching horns again, as a lot has transpired since I built my K-Horns back in 1975. Another fellow and myself are working on a bifurcated midrange horn based on an article by Bruce Edgar back about 1980. I have a pair of Eminence Delta Pro-8B mids (8 inch, 16 ohm, 99dB) that I hope will work, but we'll see.

I've been looking at the Unity's, I didn't have the cash back when it was offered to the Basslist. Appearently, some builders are currently using some Tangbands for the midwoofers to good affect.

I'll be following this thread and would like to follow up on it myself. BTW: nice work so far!

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
Yep, you can also get the misco drivers that Nick used, but they are subject to fairly large minimum orders. The tandbands should also work, but require mods. There are some that claim that using slots rather than holes results in better performance but I can get an answer as to what the improvements are on a subjective level, much less how they effect measurements.
 
Kind of a modern day Kabuki huh Dave.

Very cool build. I'll be watching closely.

What do you use for midrange drivers?
 
Yep, you can also get the misco drivers that Nick used, but they are subject to fairly large minimum orders. The tandbands should also work, but require mods. There are some that claim that using slots rather than holes results in better performance but I can get an answer as to what the improvements are on a subjective level, much less how they effect measurements.

Dave,
I would think that the hole, or slot, would somehow need to be determined by the driver and frequency range that it's intended for. There's also the relationship between the throat and expansion rate where the throat feeds into the Unity. As I'm not really sure that I have enough data or information on the Unity, it may behave quite differently than I imagine :^)

So far, the two formulas that I'm using are one by John Hasquin and another that I found on another website. Both end up being very close when worked out.

Hasquin's throat size calculation formula:

0.8 * Fs * Qes * Vas = St
Vas is in cubic feet
St is the Throat area in Sq. inches

The other formula which is in metric is:

2pi *Fs * Qts * Vas
-------------------- = At
C


Vas is in cubic meters
C is speed of sound (344 m/s)
At is the area of throat in sq. meters

I use Josh Madison's convert program for converting metric and standard English (American) measurements. The calculations that I've done, using both formulas, have yielded results that are within 1 or 2 Hundredths of a square inch, so whatever you're comfortable with would be the one to use.

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
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I've got the original Misco sourced drivers. Closed back mids with highish Fs and good sensitivity. I'll get a pic posted of them.
 
Terry, thanks for the equations, nice to have some technical resources in the thread. When I posted the slot vs round hole message, I just wasn't sure why a slot was supposedly better than a hole. I'm sure there is some sort of explanation. If I had to guess, perhaps a round hole being of all the same dimension might excite the same frequencies and cause some sort of abnormality at a frequency correlating to the diameter of the hole while a slot would distribute any issues across a wider band of frequencies.
 
Are the slots supposed to be along the horn or around it? If around is the preferred method that I could guess that it injects the sound at a more precise location along the horn. A round hole would be injecting the sound over more time as the wave from the CD travels along the horn and could conceivably cause some smear. Of course that's just a guess so take it for what it's worth.

I really wanted a set of the kits when Nick first offered them but was in the same boat financially. I just wasn't going to happen.
 
AFAIK, the slots would run along the horn.

Dave,

I've seen posted (somewhere), that the holes in the horn have been relieved on the driver's side of the horn so that the throat isn't as long as the original thickness of the horn walls. If I was better organized, I could give you all the links that I'm aware of, pertaining to the original and cloned Unities. I'll look into it tomorrow if I have some time.

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
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Terry, I've seen the recessed thing. It looks a little like they did some pocket porting on some heads. I think the diameter of the holes need to change in that case. It's something i might eventually try, but I think I'm sticking with the stock hole size for now since I know it works well. :)
 
If my memory serves (usually it's AWOL) the slots you mention "may" be the relieved portions surrounding the hole/throat. It does seem that because of the desire to cut down on the length of the throat that a slotted relief may have been used, as obviously to have a circular relief might undercut the edge of the horn, as the holes are so close to the edge.
Dave or Ray, didn't Nick or Tom find that a concave fillet along the junction of the walls of the horn improved the performance? It's been awhile, so I may be mistaken.

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
In a previous discussion, Dave and I were speculating what the optimal radius would be for the joint where the walls of the horn meet.

I don't recall that we ever came to any clear conclusion, but it seemed like a 1/2" radius, to match the radius of the driver throat, might be a good guess.
 
It helped with the B&C drivers, didn't have an effect with the TAD drivers. Speculation was that the long throat on the TAD may have lessened the impact of the round to square transition.

The only worry about the very rounded edges that people were doing is that it collapses the directivity to some degree. I will probably be putting a slug of reticulated foam in my horns.
 
Terry, I've seen the recessed thing. It looks a little like they did some pocket porting on some heads. I think the diameter of the holes need to change in that case. It's something i might eventually try, but I think I'm sticking with the stock hole size for now since I know it works well. :)

HaHa, I was tempted to refer to it as a "ported" relief, but I don't know how many hot rodders there are on this forum. If you could just get in touch with Joe Mondello, he could port and flow test these horns. It might not sound better, but it would go faster. Hey, "fast treble" to go with a horn's fast bass!
:banana:

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
It helped with the B&C drivers, didn't have an effect with the TAD drivers. Speculation was that the long throat on the TAD may have lessened the impact of the round to square transition.

The only worry about the very rounded edges that people were doing is that it collapses the directivity to some degree. I will probably be putting a slug of reticulated foam in my horns.

I think you're right about that, besides if it sound good when you get them hooked up, then you're done. You can always add fillets later and indeed you could increase the radius incrementally, if you have the time. The reticulated foam plugs seem to work well, although I've only heard it used with the Gedlee speakers and the front speakers of Patrick Bateman's car. Just the same, it does seem to work and it's reversible. In fact, with Patrick's car we removed them and listened for awhile before they were re-inserted. It was much better with the foam plugs!

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
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