• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Pioneer PL-514 TT tonearm lifter repai question

J

jbpollock

Well-Known Member
The tonearm lifter on my Pioneer PL-514 is no longer lifting properly. The lifting mechanism still moves up and down a bit when the lever is toggled, but it doesn't lift high enough to lift the stylus of of the record. Luckily, the needle just clears the album during auto return. Is there a fix for this, or is this a sealed hydraulic part that will have to be replaced? Thanks!
 
Register to hide this ad
reviving the thread...

I'm reviving it as I have the same problem except that the stylus doesn't go high enough and would get dragged across the surface of the LP...

Any thoughts?

I've opened it up, nothing's broken or missing internally, it's just that the cue damper (cylinder) doesn't go high enough.

Could it be the spring around it that's weak?
 
It's possible that over time the tonearm lift bar (the curved thing) has slipped down. There should be a set screw that allows it to be raised.
 
hakaplan said:
It's possible that over time the tonearm lift bar (the curved thing) has slipped down. There should be a set screw that allows it to be raised.
Click to expand...

Hello Howard!

I was hoping you would catch on this thread, especially since you love Pioneer TTs so much.

Thanks for your reply, I will look for an adjustment screw of some kind.

I had a look at some SMs from other models (512, 516, 518) and couldn't find anything.

I'd really like to get that TT working as new; I love the bulky look of it with its thick platter, which I've polished btw so it looks really good.

Will keep you posted.
 
Howard likely nailed this one - the set screw is on the side by the anti-skate.

Also, the lifter contacts a small tab - make sure the tab has not been bent upwards, keeping the arm from lifting as high as it should.

Good luck

Alan
 
abpeep said:
Howard likely nailed this one - the set screw is on the side by the anti-skate.

Also, the lifter contacts a small tab - make sure the tab has not been bent upwards, keeping the arm from lifting as high as it should.

Good luck

Alan
Click to expand...

Thanks Alan, I'll look for the screw... I did adjust the tab, 'cos like you say it was bent upwards, but that wasn't sufficient.
 
Mission accomplished!

Howard and Alan;

Many thanks!

Not only is the tonearm lifter adjusted but the auto-return point as well.

My PL-514 is now like a brand new TT. Time now to adjust the tracking force and anti-skate and play away!

Cheers!
 
Been spinnin' LPs all night on the PL-514...mounted my Super OM10 on it.

Great table; quiet, speed very stable, killer looks.

I love it!
 
Resurrection time for this thread.

I have the same problem as the OP, but can't find the screw to adjust the tonearm lifter: is it on the underside of the TT?

I only have the anti-skate knob, no screws anywhere near it. Am I blind?


:confused:
 
Raising this thread from the dead for a similar question....

I'm working on a PL-514XD, cleaning up the cueing, and I am having a couple of issues. First, I went with 300,0000 CST damping fluid which I pretty much always use in these Japanese S shape tonearms, with great results. On this one, it seems like the spring in the bottom of the mechanism is not providing enough push to lower the the lifter at a reasonable rate, almost like the damping fluid is too thick. Anyone know if this one needs a thinner weight damping fluid, specifically?

Second question, when I tighten the set screw on the lifter bar, it causes the little ramp to lean upwards, so that the tonearm wants to travel back to the rest position (like a crapload of antiskate is applied). So the arm won't drop straight down when cued. I'm wondering if there used to be some kind of sleeve inside the barrel of the plastic top piece where the set screw sits. Anyone else have a 514 apart at the moment?

Or better yet, does anyone happen to have the service manual they could upload into vinylengine?
 
That was my guess, but I've taken the rod out and cleaned it/ reapplied with less fluid three or four times already. I'm going to try putting a couple of washers between the spring and the e-clip to compress the spring a bit more, to give it a little more downward push on the descent of the rod. I seem to recall having to do that on a 514 in the past, but I don't recall if it was specifically the same issue.
 
ecdarby said:
Raising this thread from the dead for a similar question....

I'm working on a PL-514XD, cleaning up the cueing, and I am having a couple of issues. First, I went with 300,0000 CST damping fluid which I pretty much always use in these Japanese S shape tonearms, with great results. On this one, it seems like the spring in the bottom of the mechanism is not providing enough push to lower the the lifter at a reasonable rate, almost like the damping fluid is too thick. Anyone know if this one needs a thinner weight damping fluid, specifically?

Second question, when I tighten the set screw on the lifter bar, it causes the little ramp to lean upwards, so that the tonearm wants to travel back to the rest position (like a crapload of antiskate is applied). So the arm won't drop straight down when cued. I'm wondering if there used to be some kind of sleeve inside the barrel of the plastic top piece where the set screw sits. Anyone else have a 514 apart at the moment?

Or better yet, does anyone happen to have the service manual they could upload into vinylengine?
Click to expand...


There doesn't appear to be strict viscosity conformity among different manufacturers. One vendors 300,000 cst oil acts differently than another vendors 300,000, or at least it seems like sometimes. Certain turntables, even within the same manufacturers line can vary a bit too. I have a Rotel belt drive (C.E.C.) that I had to go all the way down to 30,000 cst viscosity to make work correctly, and the cuing doesn't appear to be that much different than many other C.E.C. (Sanyo/Realistic/Marantz etc.) tables.

As far as the cue bar, try cleaning the rubber rest and the bottom of the tonearm with some glass cleaner. It's not a cure but it may lessen the problem.

Ho Ho Ho!
 
12ax7 said:
There doesn't appear to be strict viscosity conformity among different manufacturers. One vendors 300,000 cst oil acts differently than another vendors 300,000, or at least it seems like sometimes. Certain turntables, even within the same manufacturers line can vary a bit too. I have a Rotel belt drive (C.E.C.) that I had to go all the way down to 30,000 cst viscosity to make work correctly, and the cuing doesn't appear to be that much different than many other C.E.C. (Sanyo/Realistic/Marantz etc.) tables.

As far as the cue bar, try cleaning the rubber rest and the bottom of the tonearm with some glass cleaner. It's not a cure but it may lessen the problem.

Ho Ho Ho!
Click to expand...

Thank you for the replies, very helpful! Just got it figured out. I tried the washers under the e-clip trick, but it restricted the movement of the cueing mechanism a little too much. But, it gave me the idea to stretch the spring a bit... which solved the problem nicely. I guess the spring lost it's springiness over time and just needed to be stretched out a bit.

And you're spot on about the rubber track. I cleaned it with some 91% alcohol and it cured the issue of the ice skating tonearm. I'm thinking I hit it with rubber cleaner when I was cleaning the table and it left a slick film on the surface.

I have Morris Day and the Time spinning now, and it hasn't missed a beat.


Thank you guys for your help, greatest forum on the internet. :thmbsp:

Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good night.
:butt1:
 

Attachments

  • GEDC0381.jpg
    GEDC0381.jpg
    91.2 KB · Views: 33
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom