thedelihaus .... which model would you start with then and which 'extras' would you add...??
The two extras that you mention are the KAB special here
http://kabusa.com/frameset.htm?/
while the M5G has a great finish, the one I'd go for is the MK 2.
Any model after adds features more pertinent to DJ needs.
I'd replace the RCA cables first.
Some of the other mods I'm going to mention have been argued and contested but here's a few more.
Replace the stock tone arm wire- also bypass the pcb in the tone arm wire path.
Dampen the tone arm tube- clear shrink wrap or black shrink wrap will work. The claim that the arm is he weak link is only partially true. The bearings are of high quality and tight tolerance and the arm is good but tested it shows resonance issue with the tube and possibly end stub/weight. Can't do much about the weight but cheap and easy to dampen the tube. SME damps some earlier models internally with balsa or batting. Audioquest externally sleeves the arm in rubber-like materal. Sumiko used batting inside some arms.
The external power supply seems a great option for many.
There's a few aftermarket bearings you can purchase, ranging from $200-$250 for a stock model that's modded, to a freshly machined $480 model.
Try a Herbie's platter mat.
Later, fancy isolation feet.
But really the Only thing the M5G has, sonically, over the MK 2, is the RCA cables and tone arm internal wire.
I'd play with it stock first.
If anything, go with better RCAs.
The rest, do as you see fit or want to.
The stock arm is very good, and little tweaking goes a long way. But if you get the urge to experiment later down the road, options are plentiful, from SME 3009s to SME Vs to Jelco to Rega RB-250 to Sumiko to Acos to Grace to ADC to Linn to Audioquest.
It's pretty easy to build arm boards and experiment. The SL-1200 MK 2 plinth/motor/platter offers a great base for loads of arms, including a slghtly tweaked stock arm.