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Significant differences between Technics SL-1200 MkI and MkII?

Andy_H

Andy_H

Behind the Wall of Sleep
The SL-1200 has been one of my "dream tables" for a while. I'm not in any real rush to get one, but I'd like to some day. It turns out I might have an opportunity to get one locally for what I think is a fair price. This one happens to be the original MkI version and I'm wondering whether I should pursue this one or hold out for a MkII. The info I've found states that the main differences between the two are a slider pitch control (instead of a dial), a ground wire, and "improved motor and shock resistance".

What I'm wondering is what does that really mean in terms of actual performance? (I work in advertising, so I'm plenty cynical about marketing-speak like "improved performance" that doesn't necessarily mean much). Can any of you TT experts help me understand the real-world differences between the two?
 
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Andy_H said:
The info I've found states that the main differences between the two are a slider pitch control (instead of a dial), a ground wire, and "improved motor and shock resistance".

What I'm wondering is what does that really mean in terms of actual performance? (I work in advertising, so I'm plenty cynical about marketing-speak like "improved performance" that doesn't necessarily mean much). Can any of you TT experts help me understand the real-world differences between the two?
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I've owned both.

The biggest bonus of a MK II is the improved arm. The MK II arm is not without it's faults, but can be addressed cheap enough- a buck's worth of shrink wrap and if skilled, $15 in litz/cardas wire. It also features VTA adjustment on the fly.

The original's arm is pickier, it seems,about which cartridge it prefers, and less flexible, and no on-the-fly VTA.

The second is the quartz lock, but to be honest, the original, which was before the time of quartz lock, is very speed stable and you're only eeking out a tad bit more of performance.

The third is damping- but the original can be easily damped with modeling clay, dynamat, bitumen sheets, etc. You can add mass and damping relatively easy and cheaply.

There are other small details, but nothing extravagant.


I actually prefer the look of the original- a much cleaner design. And with a bit of minor modding, you can fit a MK II arm on it for fantastic results. A tiny lip needs a slight shaving for the later model VTA to fit.

Add some mass/deadening and Bob's your uncle.
 
Andy_H said:
Thanks, Deli!

Anybody else have any input on this?
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If it's a good price go for it. Plus if the arm on the older 1200 is anything likes it's bigger brother the SL1100A it will mate and sound better with heavier boded cartridges plus the AT OC9
 
Andy_H said:
Can you elaborate on some examples of carts that mate well with this arm, and which ones to avoid?
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Reread my post from above. That arm should work well with any cartridge you'd try. Unless you'd come across an original ADC XLM which by now most of those the cantilever has bottomed out.

Don't worry it's a great old table.
 
I've used an AT440MLa, AT110E, Grado ZC+, Stanton 681, and currently a Shure M91ED on my '70s SL-1200, all with good results.
 
I personally own a SL1200 MkI which i believe is a good performer.
I like it with a Denon DL-103 pickup which is cheap and extremely well performing taking its price into consideration.

The only issue with this combo is the fact that you need a good RIAA or transformer for MC pickups.

Best regards
/Micke
 
I recently went back to the Grado ZC+ (= modern Green1) on my '70s 1200, and really like the way they sound together.
 
thedelihaus said:
. . . The third is damping- but the original can be easily damped with modeling clay, dynamat, bitumen sheets, etc. You can add mass and damping relatively easy and cheaply. . . .
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Wasn't there damping on the arm, near the pivot, at some time? I had read here that that was available as a modification. I also wondered what an add on damping trough costs.
 
Speaking as the owner of an SL1200 mk1 (since 1997) I totally love my TT and there is no way in hell I would part with it.:D
 
Grainger49 said:
Wasn't there damping on the arm, near the pivot, at some time? I had read here that that was available as a modification. I also wondered what an add on damping trough costs.
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Maybe you're thinking of the mods offered by KAB for the SL-1200MK2 and its variants?
 
Incidentally, I have my MK1 on my desk at work and run it for several hours a day. It has given me no trouble in the 2 years I've owned it.

Technics really makes well-engineered, rugged turntables!
 
The EPA 100, 250 and 500 series titanium nitride and boron arms had a very small damping ring at the junction, and fluid dampened tone arm end weights.

The Stock technics arm can be modded with sleeving, ala Audioquest and other arms do, and you can also add the KAB fluid damper.


The KAB fluid damper runs $149.
 
As I said, I LOVE my SL1200 mk1. Now if I could find a way to add 78rpm as a simple mod as well as keeping 33/45, I would have one hell of a deck on my hands:thmbsp:
 
thedelihaus said:
The EPA 100, 250 and 500 series titanium nitride and boron arms had a very small damping ring at the junction, and fluid dampened tone arm end weights.

The Stock technics arm can be modded with sleeving, ala Audioquest and other arms do, and you can also add the KAB fluid damper.


The KAB fluid damper runs $149.
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Thank you. I did not know where it came from.
 
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