• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

An Exotic Pioneer CT-F1250!

dCraig

dCraig

Member
Dimensions and instructions below!
Ok, I had to take a break from restoring my two CT-F1250s so I decided to build some new cases for them. Here, in all its glory is my exotic cherry case - made from natural solid cherry wood, and my prototype case - made from mahogany veneers and solid american walnut.

The cherry one still needs the final finish (wipe on polyurethane and a semi gloss coat) put on it. It will get a bit darker and shine. And, yes, that is intended to have the knots and holes in it. I like the natural wood look. And it is a bit of an artistic homage to the natural sound I hear coming out of these babies. I know - NERD!

Sorry i'm not the best photographer, but what do you guys think? Next up is my Pioneer SA 8800 to match the cherry look. Then comes my RT-707.:yes:

This is the Exotic Cherry case, pre-finishing:



And this is the original prototype Mahogany Veneer case post finish. Also note the original case sitting in there too. And, note the metal grill with the walnut frame at the back. I had to make a metal grill from some left over grill I had when I built my theater equipment cabinet door. Still left a little dust on it.


Enjoy! I know I did.
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Looks superb in my book. :thmbsp:

If I had to choose it would be awfully tough to decide. So I say keep them both.
 
Thanks! I figure I will keep only one, though. The cherry is my favorite. I'll post the dimensions if others need to make one.
 
Dimensions for those who want to build their own case

cliffmac said:
Would love to have the dimensions

Thx
Cliff
Click to expand...

Ok, here are the dimensions and some instructions. I will try to put together a Google Sketchup drawing to show exactly where the support pieces go inside.

Dimensions (see the pictures below of an original case for tab and spacer placement )

1 (one) Top Piece: 17-1/4" wide (side to side) by 9-3/4" deep (front to back) by 7/16" thick.

  • You will have to use a bandsaw to re-saw the wood down to 7/16" thick because you seldom can find wood that thickness. There is a 1/8" groove cut along the back edge of the top piece as a slot to fit the metal grill lip into. It is 7/32" down from the top of the top piece along the back edge (See the pictures).
  • You will need to make a lip along the bottom edge of each end of the top piece. This lip needs to be 1/8" thick to fit into the groove (slot) you will cut in the side pieces (see pictures).
  • You want the lip on each end to be about 1/4 inch wide from the edge.
  • Remember you have to cut off about 1/4" of the lip at the front of the top piece and stop your groove in the side piece at 1/4" from the front edge so it does not show through when you look at the cabinet from the front.

2 Side Pieces: 13" (front to back) by 7-3/8" (Top to bottom) x 9/16" thick.
  • Also need re-sawing to that thickness. You can use a thicker piece for the sides, though. Your choice.
  • Cut a 1/8" groove 11/32 down from the top edge of the inside of each side piece (running front to back). Stop the groove 1/4" from the front edge of the side piece. Use a chisel to clean up the edge if the table saw leaves material in the groove. This groove will hold the lip you created in the top piece. Note that this will recess the top piece about 1/16" down from the top edges of each side piece. Creates a nice reveal.

8 small angled braces: 2" by 1/2" by 1/2".
  • Cut 45 degree angle off this lengthwise. Makes it look like a triangle when seen edge-on.They fit four on each side (lined up end to end with 3/16" spacing between them) where the side pieces meet the top piece when glued together.
  • They are inside the case to make sure the sides stay 90 degrees to the top.

2 long spacers: 2-3/16" by 5/8" by 3/8".
  • These fit over the back screw holes inside the case. They are spacers to keep the sides plumb to the unit. Glue and/or finish nail them in place
  • Each back spacer is placed 1/16" up from the bottom of the side piece, 1-3/8" in from the back edge of the side piece and aligned vertically and laying with the 5/8" face flat against the side piece.
  • The center of the back screw holes are approximately 1-5/8" from the back edge of the side pieces and 1-9/16" up from the bottom of the side pieces.
  • The hole is 1/4 inch in diameter and is drilled through the side piece and through the spacer at the same time.
  • The screw hole is big enough to allow for wood movement if you use solid wood.

2 short spacers: 1-5/8" by 5/8" x 3/8".
  • These fit over the front screw holes inside the case. They are spacers to keep the sides plumb to the unit. Glue and/or finish nail them in place.
  • Each front spacer is placed 3/8" up from the bottom of the side piece, 1-3/8" in from the front edge of the side piece and aligned vertically and laying with the 5/8" face flat against the side piece.
  • The center of the front screw holes are approximately 1-5/8" from the front edge of the side pieces and 1-9/16" up from the bottom of the side pieces.
  • The hole is 1/4 inch in diameter and is drilled through the side piece and through the spacer at the same time. The screw hole is big enough to allow for wood movement if you use solid wood.

Alert!: Make sure you drill the holes in the side pieces before you glue the sides to the top! Use a drill press for clean holes or place another piece of wood under your side piece while drilling. This will prevent tear out. The recessed screw hole is made by using a 9/16" forstner drill bit (http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-forstner-bit.htm) on the exposed faces of the side pieces - centered on the screw hole.

2 tabs: 1-3/8" by 1/4" by 1/8".
  • These are small. They are there to make sure the top is level with the face of your deck.
  • Place them 1/16" from the left and right front edges of the top piece inside the case.
  • They should also be /16" from the front edge of the top piece. Glue and staple them in place with a regular stapler.

1 Side Brace: 5-5/16" by 9/16" 3/16".
  • Not sure what this brace does but it is 7/16" up from the bottom of the left side piece when looking from the front of the deck.
  • It is also about 1/4" inside the back spacer. see the pictures if you want to add this.
  • Glue and staple this in place.

Assembly instructions:
Check the dimensions as you go. If I left in any typos or dimension errors, please let me know.

1 - Insert the top pieces lips into the slots of each side piece. Glue and clamp the side pieces to the top pieces and make sure everything is straight. Let it dry at least one hour.

2 - Glue and nail (use a finish nailer or wood glue or gorilla glue) the angle braces at the intersection of the side pieces with the top inside the case.

3 - Sand, stain, and finish the wood. Only need to do the exposed sides and top.

4 - Slide in the metal vent at the back and use the four little screws to attach it to the side pieces.

5 - Use the original screws to attach the case to your deck

You're done.
 

Attachments

  • Picsagain 002.jpg
    Picsagain 002.jpg
    84.4 KB · Views: 78
  • Picsagain 003.jpg
    Picsagain 003.jpg
    82.2 KB · Views: 66
  • Picsagain 004.jpg
    Picsagain 004.jpg
    82.2 KB · Views: 62
  • Picsagain 005.jpg
    Picsagain 005.jpg
    82.4 KB · Views: 73
Last edited:
Those look beautiful - great work! :thmbsp:

Thanks for sharing the dimensions.

It would be tough to choose one, but since you say the cherry is your favorite, keep that one. Otherwise I'd suggest living with both for a while, and see over time which one you want to look at most often, and which one still gives you the most pleasure after time has passed. Sometimes we grow more quickly tired of one thing, when another continues to please.
 
So it looks like Atlanta Wood products may cut wood for people on small projects. Apparently Woodcraft may resaw small boards rarely too. Perhaps that might make it easier for people who don't have a workshop or big tools.
 
Havent got a 1250,but those cabinets are:drool::drool::drool:
I do,howeve,have 2 RT707's,and will be very intersted to see the cabinet,and dimensions,for those:)
 
Way cool, My buddy has a museum quality CT-F1250 that he's been hiding in his closet for 8 years or so, it even has the original stickers on the top of the transport, thanks for the dimensions of the cab, will send it to my buddy.:yes:
 
dCraig said:
Dimensions and instructions below!
Ok, I had to take a break from restoring my two CT-F1250s so I decided to build some new cases for them. Here, in all its glory is my exotic cherry case - made from natural solid cherry wood, and my prototype case - made from mahogany veneers and solid american walnut.

The cherry one still needs the final finish (wipe on polyurethane and a semi gloss coat) put on it. It will get a bit darker and shine. And, yes, that is intended to have the knots and holes in it. I like the natural wood look. And it is a bit of an artistic homage to the natural sound I hear coming out of these babies. I know - NERD!

Sorry i'm not the best photographer, but what do you guys think? Next up is my Pioneer SA 8800 to match the cherry look. Then comes my RT-707.:yes:

This is the Exotic Cherry case, pre-finishing:



And this is the original prototype Mahogany Veneer case post finish. Also note the original case sitting in there too. And, note the metal grill with the walnut frame at the back. I had to make a metal grill from some left over grill I had when I built my theater equipment cabinet door. Still left a little dust on it.


Enjoy! I know I did.
Click to expand...
Hi, would happen to have the pictures available of the Cherry and Mahogany???
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom