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Rewiring a Sansui SR-838

Cesari0

Active Member
Hey everyone.

Just got a Sansui SR-838 to go with a couple of ongoing TT projects.

As soon as I got it I noticed that it wasn't like the SR-929 which has RCA jacks, not cables, which was a bummer since I have DIY cables.

Well, I have been listening to the 838 for a couple of weeks, got it aligned, etc. and put on a brand new Stanton 881, which I thought sounded great.

Well yesterday I decided to play my ROK L34, which has only one upgrade, a rewired original arm, and my DIY cables... with another Stanton 881 (I have 3 of them :smoke: 1 used-2 new)

Well, needless to say, the ROK sounded better. I was wondering if anyone has rewired the 838's tonearm, and is willing to share a bit of knowledge.


Regards, Cesari0
 
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I think I will wing it, I was hoping to get a little info that would make it easier. Considering the age of the turntables, I think most, if not all are due for a rewiring.

I have done an RB-300, Rek-o-kut S120, and a thorens TP-16III(remained detachable), Syrinx PU2. A side from the TP16III, the others were relatively easy.
 
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There must be some quality re-wire kits for sale made by some quality company out there, with instructions. Probably some European company. Like: WilliamThakker in Germany.

http://www.williamthakker.eu/Audio-HiFi-CD-Player_c46-471_sid7fdb86a410dd9e10a114089719c608d0_x1.htm

Maybe get in touch with them and ask them for advice. If you don't know them they are a really big parts TT place/store and would be glad to help I'm sure. I've purchased from them before with outstanding results. They take Visa and do ship fast. Items received perfect and quickly.

If they do not have 'rewire kits' and instructions for sale I'm sure they could tell you who does.

Worth giving it a try.
 
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I'm undertaking the task as I type.... removing the tonearm is easier than it looks, unfortunately I had to find the hard way...:scratch2:.

I have decided to add RCA jacks, since the rewiring would be the easy part.

I'll post pics once I'm done:thmbsp:.



:smoke:Done:smoke:

I will post pics tomorrow, time to go to bed. Sound is way better, my left channel is a bit lower than my right, must be a solder... I will check it tomorrow.

But the sound is WAY, WAY better, specially since I can use my DIY interconnects.

Pics and instructions tomorrow.:thmbsp:
 
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Here are some pics with a little bit of info about the process.


Helpful hints"
1) Cover the sides of the plinth with duct tape of painter's tape to protect it.

2) Remove headshell, and secure arm

3) Remove the under chassis cover, and locate the tonearm wire assembly.

4) cut the coloured wires, and one ground (MAKE SURE YOU DON"T CUT BOTH GROUND WIRES GOING INTO THE TONEARM)

5) After cutting the wires, remove the tonearm lift, it's held in place by a very tiny allen/hex screw (loosen the screw, don't remove it)

6) Locate the phillips scew that's under the tonearm (loosen it, don't remove it)

7) Once the screw is loose enough, pull gently on the tonearm tube, and it should slide out, if the wired have been cut inside the wire assembly, the tonearm tube should easily separate.

8) Locate the tiny screw under the tonearm, close to the headshell. Being careful, try to unscrew it, don't be surprised if it stripes since it's aluminum, I had to use a pair of small pliers, since mine stripped. This screw should be places in a vault, safety box or somewhere where it won't be lost!!!

9) Once the screw is removed, pull the wires out, there is a small piece of copper, make sure you don't loose that. Unsolder the wires, and remove. I removed one and instantly replaced it with a new one.

10) My wires were 16" long each, so you will need about 16"x4. The best way to solder the new wires on is to install the cartridge on the small assembly, this way the pins are pushed out, and you get a better area to work with

11) Once all the wires are soldered on, slide them back in the tube. It's time to put that tiny screw back. There's a small see through piece of tubing, it goes inside the tonearm tube, remember to put the wires through the tube, and slide it back in the tonearm.

12) It's time to find a way to get the wires down the elbow of the tonearm. I usually use fishing line. I start by feeding it through the top, feeding it downwards, using a small pair of pliers helps get the fishing line down, into the plinth if you're having a hard time getting it to go.

13) Once the fishing line is in-out, tie all 5 wires (ground included) with the fishing line. and pull gently, at the same time feeding it through the top, be careful, if you are using litz wire, the silk is very fragile, but all wires of this gauge are fragile non the less. If you secure the tonearm tube to the tonearm rest, you will have one less thing to worry about. Once finished re-tightened the phillips screw.

14) If you're keeping the old wire configuration, just solder wire to old assembly, using a multimeter to check right connectivity.

15) If you're installing RCA jacks, I would suggest you drill your holes, dig and prep the path around step 7 here.

16) Once all the jacks, and wires are though, solder the wires with right connectivity, and reinstall underchassis.

odds&ends:
I loosened a screw in the motor assembly and attached a ground wire, re-tightened and soldered to a grounding connect, I like to think it helped.

Also I found the motor screws under the platter loose, I tightened them, making sure I didn't over tightened them.

I know litz wires are highly regarded here, but a great alternative would be wires from headphones, I have used wired from headphones sold at dollarama for a tonearm with GREAT results, I was planning to use the wire in this project, but I couldn't find it here at home. I fund them a bit too late, so I used it for my cartridge leads.... something to keep in mind.



*~*~*~*These steps are only suggestions to help you through the process you have decided to undertake, so please be careful, as I don't want to be held responsible should anything go wrong.*~*~*~*
 

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pic set-2
 

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pic set-3

I have to got back and check my solders, I as one channel is not loud enough.:scratch2:

Sound wise this thing sounds alive:music:, grounding the motor assembly has quieted it when the turntable is on but not playing.


I think anyone with a turntable that's this age should get it rewired. I wasn't impressed with the 838 when I first got it, and I bought it from an owner that had a Thorens TD-126 replace this 838, I wonder what he would think of it now.

You will be surprised this I guarantee!!:banana:
 

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Your a ' brave man ' Cesari0 !!!!!!! :>)

Thanks for the write-up and pics.

I have an 838 myself and 'love it'. I'll never look for another TT. This one is perfect! (knock on wood it stays that way). 838s are simply outstanding.

Once again, thanks for the write-up! Well done and most appreciated. Great post!
 
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I have decided to replace the Litz with the solid core headphones wires. I get the same results, but the HP wire is more accessible, and easier to work with.

The smaller diameter of the headphone wires help make them just as flexible as the Litz.
 

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