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Aden's Sanyo TP-626 Plinth Building Thread Extravaganza

Aden

Aden

Active Member
Okay, maybe not an extravaganza for you guys, but it's my first venture into actually doing something instead of just buying stuff. Combined with my relative vinyl newb-ness, it's sure to be at least a learning experience. First things first:

Update 0: What I'm Working With
aka: Look what I found!

The subject in question is a Sanyo TP-626 belt driven servo motor table. It was found under a pile of Numark stuff at a "clear out our crap" sale (not actually what they called it but it would have been cool if they did) at a local music store. My first table was (thanks to the helpful folks here) a Sanyo Plus Q40 that unfortunately got destroyed by UPS, so I'll have a soft spot for these old Sanyos.

I really should have gotten some photos before I cleaned it up. The belt was in gooey little bits that had the consistency of tar and got all over everything, and there was a coating of dust that I bet I could have counted the layers of to find out how many decades it hadn't been touched in. It came with no headshell/cart, no belt(obviously), and I rummaged around and found what I think is the platter that goes with it. Surprisingly the dust cover is in one piece, but obviously the clarity leaves something to be desired.

Each photo clicks to a larger version.





The cost so far:

Turntable: $10
Headshell, used: $8
Belt, not counting spare: $12
Total: $30
 
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Update 1: The Plans
aka: Aden needs a T-square

So after I cleaned it all up and soldered up some loose stuff, I set out and got a new headshell and a few belts. And it works! Runs a little slow (going to have to find out how to adjust it - or just coat the motor spindle with something so the belt turns faster) but we have sound. Sounds pretty good, too.

My biggest complaint with the table is the lightweight plinth with a finish that's showing its age, so the plan right now is to build a new plinth. I've taken a few days and brainstormed and drawn up what I think will work. What I am hoping to do is build something that's both a more attractive plinth and an integrated sandbox.

Excuse the scan quality as it's actually just an iPhone photo:



So the walls have pockets of sand in them to increase the mass of the plinth and dampen the whole thing, and the suspended assembly will be also sitting on a plate on a layer of sand at the bottom of the table. The plate will be surrounded by a small border of foam to keep crap out of the sand and vice versa. The idea for the sand-filled rubber feet will be stolen from another thread here.

The measurements are finalized and the materials are in the shop. The next challenge will be pulling this off with the equipment I currently have, which includes a drill, a hacksaw, a circular saw, some clamps, glue, and a hammer. If all goes right, I start tomorrow! Let's do this.

The cost so far:

From previous: $30
Wood: $15
Wood glue: $3
Brasso polish on a tip from someone here regarding dustcover cleanup: $3
Total: $51
 
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Aden, can't wait to see the final result. The TP-626 is one of my favorite "under the radar" tables.

As for the speed, I thought about trying a wide belt instead of the spec-ed medium. The extra width would bring the belt down farther on the bulge in the capstan and (I think) make the platter run a little faster. I never got around to trying it before I sold the table but I think I'd investigate that before starting to try to add material to the capstan.

By the way, if you post a photo of the platter and the mat I can tell you whether they're original. I can also tell you a trick about setting the overhang.

John
 
boreas said:
As for the speed, I thought about trying a wide belt instead of the spec-ed medium. The extra width would bring the belt down farther on the bulge in the capstan and (I think) make the platter run a little faster. I never got around to trying it before I sold the table but I think I'd investigate that before starting to try to add material to the capstan.
Click to expand...

Ah, good idea, I'll have to try it. What I might actually also play around with is raising the motor up a bit so that the capstan (I guess that's what you call it, learn something here every day) juts out just a little bit more, hopefully achieving the same effect. This should be easily done thanks to how the motor is mounted - just need a few washers. I'd have to make sure it wouldn't scrape on anything though.

By the way, if you post a photo of the platter and the mat I can tell you whether they're original. I can also tell you a trick about setting the overhang.
Click to expand...

This is why I love this place.

Here you go:
Mat
Platter
Bottom of Platter

Thanks
 
Aden said:
Ah, good idea, I'll have to try it. What I might actually also play around with is raising the motor up a bit so that the capstan (I guess that's what you call it, learn something here every day) juts out just a little bit more, hopefully achieving the same effect. This should be easily done thanks to how the motor is mounted - just need a few washers. I'd have to make sure it wouldn't scrape on anything though.
Click to expand...

Off the top of my head I think that won't work. The bulge in the capstan makes the belt ride high up against the sort of cap at the top. Raising the motor won't change that and it might bring the belt into contact with the fork that changes the belt position for 33 & 45.

The mat and the platter are original. Good guess! ;) Here's the trick for setting overhang. The spec on that is 15 mm. Guess how far the point I've indicated with the red arrow is from the outer edge of the spindle. :)

John
 

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  • 04Mat.jpg
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They use a similar trick on some of the Akai tunrtables.
Can you take a measurement (of how far it is from the tip of the stylus to the gasket) when you have some time?:music:
 
boreas said:
The mat and the platter are original. Good guess! ;) Here's the trick for setting overhang. The spec on that is 15 mm. Guess how far the point I've indicated with the red arrow is from the outer edge of the spindle. :)
Click to expand...

Oho, spiffy! I will go make sure that's adjusted presently.

Balifly said:
They use a similar trick on some of the Akai tunrtables.
Can you take a measurement (of how far it is from the tip of the stylus to the gasket) when you have some time?:music:
Click to expand...

Of course!
...I just need to know what the gasket is as I am still a newb :D
 
When you remove the headshell from the tonearm, there should be a round gasket at the end of the headshell.:music:
 
The measurement seems to be about a 49mm/1.93in offset (not a diagonal measurement), double-checked. Sound in the ballpark to what you're looking for?
 
Aden said:
The cost so far:

From previous: $30
Wood: $15
Wood glue: $3
Brasso polish on a tip from someone here regarding dustcover cleanup: $3
Total: $51
Click to expand...

I'm following your plinth building with interest, so far, so good.

On thing though, I've cleaned dustcover from my TTs with Nu Finish Scratch Doctor or Mothers Scratch Remover product, and polished metal with Brasso. I've never heard of polishing plastic with Brasso, it might work, I don't know.
Do a test on a piece of plastic before end, just to make sure.

One other method that works very well is, sand paper. Take 800, 1200, and 2000grit. Start with the 800grit working your way to the higher number. Caution, when using sand paper always use it with water, never dry.
 
Aden said:
Okay, maybe not an extravaganza for you guys, but it's my first venture into actually doing something instead of just buying stuff. Combined with my relative vinyl newb-ness, it's sure to be at least a learning experience. First things first:

Update 0: What I'm Working With
aka: Look what I found!

The subject in question is a Sanyo TP-626 belt driven servo motor table. It was found under a pile of Numark stuff at a "clear out our crap" sale (not actually what they called it but it would have been cool if they did) at a local music store. My first table was (thanks to the helpful folks here) a Sanyo Plus Q40 that unfortunately got destroyed by UPS, so I'll have a soft spot for these old Sanyos.

I really should have gotten some photos before I cleaned it up. The belt was in gooey little bits that had the consistency of tar and got all over everything, and there was a coating of dust that I bet I could have counted the layers of to find out how many decades it hadn't been touched in. It came with no headshell/cart, no belt(obviously), and I rummaged around and found what I think is the platter that goes with it. Surprisingly the dust cover is in one piece, but obviously the clarity leaves something to be desired.

Each photo clicks to a larger version.





The cost so far:

Turntable: $10
Headshell, used: $8
Belt, not counting spare: $12
Total: $30
Click to expand...

Great! TT, I moved mine out to another audiophile.



Sanyo TP-626 Last play... by jleon92f, on Flickr

Worked great..Can't wait to see your work..
Thanks,
John.:music::D
 
moinau said:
On thing though, I've cleaned dustcover from my TTs with Nu Finish Scratch Doctor or Mothers Scratch Remover product, and polished metal with Brasso. I've never heard of polishing plastic with Brasso, it might work, I don't know.
Do a test on a piece of plastic before end, just to make sure.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I plan on testing it on a small patch and seeing what happens. I got the referral from here, so I figured I might as well start cheap. And if it doesn't work, I'll move up to sandpaper and Meguiar's PlastX or Novus #1 and #2. Which are also all ideas from various threads here, I might add. :D
 
moinau said:
On thing though, I've cleaned dustcover from my TTs with Nu Finish Scratch Doctor or Mothers Scratch Remover product, and polished metal with Brasso. I've never heard of polishing plastic with Brasso, it might work, I don't know.
Click to expand...

It works. I've used it on very many dustcovers. In my estimation, it works at least as well as the combination of Novus Plastic Polish #s 2 & 3 and is simpler to use.

Being in the army, especially a ceremonial unit, one gets familiar with Brasso. Likewise, P/T, training and the like takes a toll on one's wrist watch. I've been using Brasso to polish scratches out of plastic since the Vietnam era. Hardly ever ruin anything. ;)

From the Brasso can sitting beside me as I type:

Suggested Uses:
Brass: Beds, Hardware, Ornaments, Fireplace Accessories, Belt Buckles, Jewelry, Trays, Lamps Buttons
Chrome: Boat Hardware, Auto Trim, Furniture, Appliances
Copper: Tea Kettles, Decorative Objects, Copper Bottom Pans
Stainless Steel: Sinks, Appliances, Boat Fittings
Pewter: Mugs, Plates
Other: Plastic Watch Crystals

They say not to use it on aluminum but it works just fine. I've polished a number of platters with it. For pitted aluminum I've used a succession of grits of wet or dry sandpaper wetted with Brasso and then finished it off with just Brasso.

John
 
Aden said:
Yeah, I plan on testing it on a small patch and seeing what happens. I got the referral from here, so I figured I might as well start cheap. And if it doesn't work, I'll move up to sandpaper and Meguiar's PlastX or Novus #1 and #2. Which are also all ideas from various threads here, I might add. :D
Click to expand...

It's counter-intuitive but the Novus products are supposed to be used "3, 2, 1" rather than "1, 2, 3". Novus #1 is basically liquid wax. For scratch removal there is #3 for heavy scratches and #2 for lighter ones. As I said in the previous post, Brasso does the job of #2 & #3 in one step.

John
 
Aden said:
Yeah, I plan on testing it on a small patch and seeing what happens. I got the referral from here, so I figured I might as well start cheap. And if it doesn't work, I'll move up to sandpaper and Meguiar's PlastX or Novus #1 and #2. Which are also all ideas from various threads here, I might add. :D
Click to expand...

boreas said:
It works. I've used it on very many dustcovers. In my estimation, it works at least as well as the combination of Novus Plastic Polish #s 2 & 3 and is simpler to use.

Being in the army, especially a ceremonial unit, one gets familiar with Brasso. Likewise, P/T, training and the like takes a toll on one's wrist watch. I've been using Brasso to polish scratches out of plastic since the Vietnam era. Hardly ever ruin anything. ;)

From the Brasso can sitting beside me as I type:

Suggested Uses:
Brass: Beds, Hardware, Ornaments, Fireplace Accessories, Belt Buckles, Jewelry, Trays, Lamps Buttons
Chrome: Boat Hardware, Auto Trim, Furniture, Appliances
Copper: Tea Kettles, Decorative Objects, Copper Bottom Pans
Stainless Steel: Sinks, Appliances, Boat Fittings
Pewter: Mugs, Plates
Other: Plastic Watch Crystals

They say not to use it on aluminum but it works just fine. I've polished a number of platters with it. For pitted aluminum I've used a succession of grits of wet or dry sandpaper wetted with Brasso and then finished it off with just Brasso.

John
Click to expand...

Being ex Navy I've used Brasso extensively on many products, but never on plastic.
It's good to know it also works on plastic and similar material, you always learn something, thanks guys, I'll certainly give it a try next time.:thmbsp:
 
moinau said:
Being ex Navy I've used Brasso extensively on many products, but never on plastic.
It's good to know it also works on plastic and similar material, you always learn something, thanks guys, I'll certainly give it a try next time.:thmbsp:
Click to expand...

And it's made in Canada too! ;)

John
 
Update 2: Cutting Big Things to Make Little Things

I've chosen a 1/4" 2x4 sheet and a 1/2" 2x2 sheet of birch ply to build the main structure of the table for two reasons: it's relatively easy to work with, and it's cheap! Also purchased was a board of pine for topping the sides off. Because it was on sale. Off to the side is a larger pine board that I already had that I'll take bits from.



After some fun times with the handsaw and the circular saw (fueled almost entirely by Kit Kats that were left over from halloween), we have a bunch of miscellaneous wood bits that will hopefully fit together in some coherent manner.



And here's a side (the front wall, to be more specific) being glued and clamped. I actually would have loved to have more clamps, and I'm going to have to go buy some more because the biggest ones won't fit when I'll need to clamp the wall vertically. I'm also thinking getting a bunch of small wood screws just to make sure everything stays tight.



After more things are glued, I'm going to have even more fun times if I can hopefully find a belt sander.

Cost so far remains at $51

Edit:

A small side without its front face.



The same small side with its front face. There's a lot of sanding to be done here before I'll be able to put the top cap on after filling the space, but hopefully it'll turn out okay. I'm not exactly working with precision machining tools here.

 
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Update 2.1: Not Much Happened

Today was a rather light day. Had to run out and resupply - grabbed more clamps and screws. Took a short voting break as well.

Main accomplishments included going crazy with the belt sander to make sure everything was even on the existing assembled sides, adding screws to the assembled sides for reinforcement, and planning out the back panel which will include the mounts for the dust cover and a hole for wiring. The below photo shows a few back panel components being glued and clamped, which is where I left the workshop for today.



Some more pieces were also cut, which is another reason I didn't really get much done today - our circular saw is a bit off-axis (roll-wise) so for some cuts that required more precision I had to use a hacksaw, a cutting block, and a clamp. Not fun.

Cost so far:

From previous: $51
Not counting the clamps since that's a general workshop improvement anyway
Screws: $5
Total: $56
 
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